Mace Engineering Development Car

[VS_WPN]

Thread Update

Dyno Results
First Dyno sheet shows before (Heads 125.3rwkw) and after rockers (2.15:1)were put on.

Before Heads + Rockers

After Heads + Rockers

Conclusion: After seeing that their is room for a lot of improvement in a tune, we are currently waiting to MAfless tune the car.
Please be aware:
1. Auto - Manual would have made more power.
2. 20w60 oil was used (will be using thinner oil next time & better quality [10w-40 RP])
3. 3.9 Diff ratio shows less power on dyno

 

[danja]

Why do you say that 3.9 gears make the dyno read lower??

 

[vxcalais_01]

Fuchs have tested to have some of the fastest oils in their 5w20 range, try that for the Dyno run. Bursons or get it from Fuchs factory in Sunshine. Otherwise try a 5w40 oil like Shell Helix Ultra or Redline from Autobarn, even Redline 10w30 will survive dynos over and over. This oil has a high HTHS figure, so is more than thick enough in the high load areas. It is thicker than many 10w40 when it needs to be. Autobarn should have some. It will take some time before peope realise Royal Purple is not worthit at that price.

 

[ADDICTVY]

nice result

 

[VS_WPN]

Why do you say that 3.9 gears make the dyno read lower??

The lower the gear ratio, (higher the numerical value) the fewer the teeth on the pinion. The gear set with the most teeth in the pinion will take less kilowatts to turn it, this type diff will benefit least from any type of friction improver. This is why vehicles show less kilowatts and torque on the dyno when you lower the gear ratio (Although on road the car will be faster then say an identical car with the standard gear ratio 3.08 that shows more power on the dyno).

However, throughout the whole testing process the gear ratio was not changed during the test so the comparison power figures are accurate.

Fuchs have tested to have some of the fastest oils in their 5w20 range, try that for the Dyno run. Bursons or get it from Fuchs factory in Sunshine. Otherwise try a 5w40 oil like Shell Helix Ultra or Redline from Autobarn, even Redline 10w30 will survive dynos over and over. This oil has a high HTHS figure, so is more than thick enough in the high load areas. It is thicker than many 10w40 when it needs to be. Autobarn should have some. It will take some time before peope realise Royal Purple is not worthit at that price.

I wouldn't want to go thinner then 10w40 in an ecotec & I get royal purple at a sort of "reasonable" price, not $100 lol. This oil isn't just for the test, it's what I'll be running until the car is due for another service.

nice result

Thanks. :thumbsup: Looking at the dyno graph it has the same characteristics as a big cam, running about .550" of valve lift. Usually with a cam a tune is needed for the car to run and it would be stalling and you would have lost pretty much most of the cars driveability.

With this Heads + Rockers package it eliminates the high cost of cam installation, cost of tune and doesn't compromise the way the car drives.

A tune is not required for the package but there is a lot of scope for improvement with a tune because a lot of the cars characteristics has changed from factory. In saying that though it drives and goes very well without a tune. :driving:

 

[vxcalais_01]

I was suggesting the thinner oil for the dyno, if you wanna keep an oil in for the whole change, use the Redline 10w30 -

http://www.redlineoil.com.au/Uploads/Downloads/tech dataweb Eng ALL 002.pdf

See in the chart, the HTHS of the 5w30 and 10w30 - Its 3.8. Thats what many other 5w40 and 10w40 oils rate at. Its 5w40 is up there with many 10w50-20w50 oils in the high temp, high shear regions of the engine where it matters. We traditionally have used thicker oils as they are thicker in these areas and break down less, but there are some thinner oils made for racing which mimic these things. I am a thicker oil person, i run anything from 5w40 to currently 10w60. But i am not dynoing my car and trying to show potential customers the best power outputs.

 

[Tsunamix]

I don't understand why a lower ratio diff will show less dyno hp than a higher ratio.

In terms of mechanical losses, there is no difference.

in terms of torque, there is actually more present at the wheels with a lower ratio diff than a higher. The torque multiplication increase with the ratio, directly.

Power is torque multiplied by rpm, so if torque is higher, and rpm is the same, there is more power.

Don't forget we are talking about actual power (recorded at the wheels) vs apparent power (at engine before driveline and frictional losses). If recorded torque is higher, which it should be, the power should also be higher. The factor that looses out is rotational speed (road speed or rotational speed of the dyno which does not affect the engine).

 

[savage1987]

The lower the gear ratio, (higher the numerical value) the fewer the teeth on the pinion. The gear set with the most teeth in the pinion will take less kilowatts to turn it, this type diff will benefit least from any type of friction improver. This is why vehicles show less kilowatts and torque on the dyno when you lower the gear ratio (Although on road the car will be faster then say an identical car with the standard gear ratio 3.08 that shows more power on the dyno).

I'm not sure who fed you this information but it is largely bullshit.

 

[greenfoam]

The gears will use more HP to drive, you can hear the extra noise they make but I mean it's going to be like 1 hp

 

[VS_WPN]

I'm not sure who fed you this information but it is largely bullshit.

Care to explain ?

The gears will use more HP to drive, you can hear the extra noise they make but I mean it's going to be like 1 hp

Yes this is true. The loss is probably like 1 - 3rwkw max. Still worth mentioning for people who didn't know