Making engine run quieter/smoother, ideas?

[Jxfwsf]

I'd pay $2400 to have someone else do "all" the work on a sc6 without hesitation lol, but i'm lazy

 

[Customcreations]

Hi Guys.

I called holden about the following and not very happy :

Fuel Pressure Reg - $200 but no longer i production, any recommended alternatives that work good Repco is $180 pretty expensive for just a reg.

Inlet Manifold O-ring seals -- What I got told don't quote me on this have no idea how accurate it is.... 2 different styles, One piece gasket and separate piecies.

Late Style from engines VH9 to 3178. Single Piece type $14.
Early Style separated piecies.... no longer avaliable.

Balance Shaft Bearing - Part does not exist by itself because it is part of the balance shaft itself, have to replace the whole balance shaft which is $140. Also they mentioned front bearing does not exist only rear bearing does. Very confusing.

I called CBC Bearings they said they don't sell it only Genuine part will have to do they said.
Does anyone have a definately answer on the front balance shaft bearing and where to buy?

Any idea on which inlet manifold O-rings suit my car it's a 1996 VS Series 2.
And how would I go about the Balance shaft replacing the whole shaft with engine in?
Or is the Holden guy wrong from if they don't sell a bearing nobody does?

I have a spare VS engine sitting here with heads off etc. I plan to port the heads and rebuild it. I bought the correct Turbo inlet valves which are basically same as stock valves but with a deep concave to them to lower the compression. They are new in the pack and the set cost $15 bucks as it was new/old stock sell out giong for cost of scrap metel or something ( got new hyper eutectic pistons too at under $35. VRS set was around $100 which I'm sure you guys have had a shock trying to get them in Australia forcheaper than $200 dependig if they see you coming or not!!! I'll take a look in the morning. If your interested I am having the art of sourcing un-findable parts. With holden It's "think Buick" and I have sourced spares from America at a very small fraction of the cost of getting stuff here. Australia does S..k for spares. Will check the bearing in the morning as I think I already said.
In regards to Coil packs they do go bad but still work. An easy check other than sticking you tongue on a lead. :HE HE: Sorry I think I'm getting tired.
Anyway take off the plug lead to each coil and if there is a rust build up or noticable black residue it is time to replace. They can even look pretty good still but that is one helpful tip to look for. Also the plate that the coils bolt to has seals in there as well as the plate itself can be dicky too. Especially if your one to wash the engine bay. I have a few good second hand ones (plate for under the coil packs) laying around. Sorry cant think of there name right now but I'm sure someone will know it.
Anyway hope that all makes sense. Fuel pressure reg you should check first before you buy and replace. Again I can see what comes up in USA for that. Any one interested?? let me know and what your after. I'm happy to help where I can

 

[Z2TT]

I emailed an engine builder who does work with Ecotecs they told the front bearing is not removable and whole balance shaft has to be changed, I don't want to get rid of the shaft as it would be there for a reason from the factory as the aim is better running/ smoothness.

I'm pretty surprised for one of the most common cars/engines in Australia, that lots of parts are out of production from GMH, such as the inlet manifold runner O-rings, they are out of production for the Early VS Ecotecs hope I don't have that motor.

Edit - looks like my type of inlet runner seals no longer avaliable, Holden told me they had from Engine VH93178 onwards i believe that is about 2002 onwards.

 

[Jxfwsf]

i'm on a mission now to find a scrap ecotec to pull apart......

 

[Customcreations]

Did you say its a 92' model. I think that would be.
Do you want me to check if mine is any good.(balance shaft & bearing) I'm pretty sure it would be as it was the original engine out of my VS.
Where do you live? as in roughly not specific. I know my engine is pretty good.

I thought the head gaskets were leaking and pulled it down to find them to be perfect!!:doh:
I since found out you need to run the genuine anti freeze anti boil and it has to be at 50% of that to 50% water/ distilled water. Otherwise they cook over if you turn the car off when radiator fan is engaged. It's due to the heads having an air pocket that supposedly can't be bled out.

I will be trying a method of cutting the bottom off a 2 litre water bottle and using it as a funnel to raise the water level while filling the radiator.
Plus another trick is to use a 1.25 ltr bottle without the lid an squeeze it in just behind the battery then put the water reserve over flow hose in to it and it acts as an extra overflow.
Provided your water reserve container and lid is in good nic it will actually suck the water back through. I've been running that on my VS for a few years and it has made all the difference.
I only have to top up once in a blue moon and then it was only because that back plate on this engine has the leaks a bit.
The back plate behind flywheel/trans plate is a very sad set up and easily starts leaking. I'm sealing it with loctite sealer instead of the factory gasket.

 

[jas98]

as for teh balace shaft bearing in the front of teh engine, yeh i read the same but have read that they are replaceable???

 

[Jxfwsf]

Did you say its a 92' model. I think that would be. Do you want me to check if mine is any good.(balance shaft & bearing) I'm pretty sure it would be as it was the original engine out of my VS. Where do you live? as in roughly not specific. I know my engine is pretty good. I thought the head gaskets were leaking and pulled it down to find them to be perfect. I since found out you need to run the genuine anti freeze anti boil/coolant and it has to be at 50% of that to 50% water/ distilled water. Otherwise they cook over if you turn the car off when radiator fan is engaged. It's due to the heads having an air pocket that supposedly can't be bled out. I will be trying a method of cutting the bottom off a 2 litre water bottle and using it as a funnel to raise the water level while filling the radiator. Plus another trick is to use a 1.25 ltr bottle without the lid an squeeze it in just behind the battery then put the water reserve over flow hose in to it and it acts as an extra overflow. provided your water reserve container and lid is in good nic it will actually suck the water back through. I've been running that on my VS for a few years and it has made all the difference, I only have to top up once in a blue moon and then it was only because that back plate on this engine has the leaks a bit. The back plate behind flywheel/trans plate is a very sad set up and easily starts leaking. I'm sealing it with loctite sealer instead of the factory gasket.

wall of text? #### me. Break it into sentences and paragraphs......

as for teh balace shaft bearing in the front of teh engine, yeh i read the same but have read that they are replaceable???

has to be replaceable, people remove the drive gear (have to leave the shaft in the the block or there a mass oil leak in the back), would cost gm way to much to machine the balance shaft with an integrated bearing.... makes no sense.

 

[Customcreations]

Sorry for the wall of TEXT. Will work on it.

Just a NOOB I am

Going out to the shed now. I'll take a look at the balance shaft I have here.

Is that better for reading

 

[Customcreations]

I had a look at my VS balance shaft. Its exactly the same as the earlier buicks as far as bearings goes. I'm sure If I measure them to compare they would be exactly the sam balance shaft all together.
It was the heads and other stuff that was changed on ecotec. Not the block so much. (though there are a couple on the block side of things but won't go there without confirming it).

The front bearing is (as previously mension by another member) aroller bearing which has the groove in the outer "ring" with a locating clip ring of sort to stop the balance shaft getting pushed out te back.
Min is "OK" but I wouldn't use it or sell it as it is on its way out. ( i would only use it if I was desperate and the other balance shaft bearing was collapsed and you "couldn't get home" type sanario.
It is replacable and will come of quite easily. I know as I have replaced the same tpye on my Buick series 1 block I am rebuilding.

The rear needle bearing how ever if needed is not replaceable as for as the sleeve that is pressed on to the balance shaft but the needle bearing itself is replaceable but shouldn't need it. I Have bothe the needle bearing and the roller bearing new here which is for that Buick I'm rebuilding. I can source the bearings if its wanted by any one.
(bear in mind that IF the rear needle bearing is stuffed I it would most likely mean the entire balance shaft would be too due to the non replaceable sleeve.
You car would be making a whole lot more noise too.
The part number for the front bearing is:

NSK 6205NR for the front roller bearing.
and
Torrington J-2412 for the rear needle bearing.
If your going to this extent (valley removal and timing cover removal) You hould cosider the whole top end. Head gaskets, remove and clean at least but preferablbly replacing the lifters. (by cleaning I mean removing the spring clip to dismantle the lifters and clean out the carbon buld up.) if the needle bearings aren't shot they would be fine to keep. (provided they aren't flogged out internally!?
But from memory you may have said you were thinking of replacing the lifters.

The back plate behind the trans plate / Rear crank Oil seal assembly would most likely be on it's way out or even way past it.
If not corroded it would be leaking coolant or on its way towards it.
Mine engine is at 250,000 K's + - a bit. Just replacing it as we type. (well more or less as we type) I have pics of its ugliness, after i cleaned it up too. There was oil/water mix coming out the seams.

 

[Jxfwsf]

I remember reading somewhere that the balance shafts did change weight between the buick, ecotech and l67, the newer ones have 4 or 8 \/ shapes cast/cut into them for identification.

Thanks for confirming my suspicions that it is be a replaceable bearing.