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[VT-VX] Manual Tailshaft Centre bearing replacement

cam95

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Alrighty so I'm getting my VU ute ready for rwc and my centre bearing was shot, i have had one replace previously on my vz and it cost me $350 with no guarantee it would balance, i decided to give it a go myself.

Im am no mechanic I'm just going off experience and research, i am not accountable for anything that goes wrong if you try this however it has worked perfectly for me.

Okay so we have all seen the youtube video of the guy smacking his VX tailshaft with a hammer and chisel, DONT do that, its not necessary and you will end wrecking your splines etc.

Okay tools you will need
-19mm Socket
-Ratchet
-Extension
-13mm Socket
-Cerclip pliers
-Hammer
-Screwdrivers
-Jack
-Stands
IMG_4058.jpg

Also going to need the bearing, think i paid $75 for this from local Auto parts shop
IMG_4059.jpg

First Step, jack front and rear up and place on engine stands or safety stands.
IMG_4062.jpg

Locate the tailshaft and undo three nut and bolts on the doughnut meeting both the gearbox and diff.
Be careful that it doesn't drop. Next step is to locate the centre bearing and undo the two 13mm bolts, once undone the shaft will be free, remove from under the car and place on work bench or vice if you have one. I have neither so garage floor it is.
IMG_4018.jpg

Next step is to remove half the shaft. Be sure to mark both sides of the shaft to ensure it is lined up correctly on re install. From here you want to pull on the side with the boot. The shaft will pull out from the other half leaving the bearing and knuckle behind. should look something like this.
20121031_142600.jpg

in my case the small metal cover (pictured) stayed with the bearing, in this case it just pulls off, might need an even tap with a hammer if it doesn't move
IMG_4055.jpg

Next remove the cerclip holding the centre bearing on, i forgot to get a photo of this but heres one that is similar, once its removed its just a matter of getting the bearing off, it is pressed on so hammer with even his around the bearing should get it off, i have used a bearing or gear puller in the past and works well. images.jpeg

Next step is putting new bearing on, i used the old bearing to tap it on without damaging the new bearing, If you have a pipe that is big enough to sit on the outer race of the new bearing that will work to. Once bearing is seated on the shaft re insert the cerclip. now re install the metal cover or retainer and then the shaft, ensure the marks you have made line up exactly!
IMG_4057.jpg

Re install the tailshaft and away you go, test-drive and ensure there is no vibration!
Hope this helps some people and saves some cash

Any questions or comments feel free to add, this is my first how to so cut me some slack
Cheers!
 

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edals

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Good how to mate, About to attempt this my self, my bearing has completly spilt away from the rubber :hmmm: Ill try and add to this thread when im done with some extra shots or tips i find. If im at all successful that is.
I have seen the video of that guy and thought no way id do that.

Update:

So, Got the bearing replaced. I drove the car up on ramps, First Issue, Cannot access all the bolts on the shaft as it needs to be rotated around to gain access.
next issue, Failed to undo the bolts. Rattle gun even failed. So, Packed away the tools after 10 mins and accepted i could not do it.
So i drove around to my mechanic relative. Got the car on the hoist. Took a 1 meter power bar & 1 meter pry bar to stop the shaft spinning. Cracked all 3 & Removed.
Undone the bearing mounting bolts. Pulled the shaft straight out of the trans. Fluid may leak but nothing leaked from mine. (yes its full)
Marked the 2 tail shaft parts. few bashes separated it, removed c clip, few bashes with a chisel removed the bearing. Slide new bearing on, few more bashes till its seated. Line up the shaft and bash back together.
Reinstalled into the car & all done. This took a very generous 25 mins from the car drove on the hoist to driving it away and its perfect no vibration etc.

Note, This was the very first bearing he had done on a commodore also. So TBH the mechanics that wont do it or charge 100s of $ are full of ****.
 
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cam95

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Hey mate atlas you gave it a red hot go, getting to the bolts can be a bit fiddly, worst case you jack the diff chuck it in neutral and rotate by hand, fortunately i could get to the bolts easy enough and with a 1/2 inch socket set and spanner managed to crack them all.

Atleast you know what you are up for next time

Cheers mate
 

vsspackute

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would these steps be the same for a vs ute as my centerbearing is on it way out
 

Immortality

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VS is similar but has a C.V joint instead of a universal. The 2 halves are held together with 6 cap screws, then you need to remover the C.V which is also secured with a circlip. Once the C.V is off you can remove the bearing.

You will need to mark the 2 halves as above but also the position of C.V on the splined shaft before removal.

Also, don't forget to fit the dust slinger before fitting the new bearing as you will damage the old one getting the bearing off.


Good to see the later shaft is repairable at home :thumbsup:
 

MiKExAUS

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thanks for the write-up. changed my centre bearing the other day. you forgot to mention you need an E20 Torx socket to disconnect the tailshaft from the diff. Also having a 30ID bit of pipe to knock the new bearing on would be really handy as well as some sort of bearing puller to get the old one off. otherwise an easy job and I recommend everyone to try doing it themselves if it needs replacing. I got the bearing for $50 inc postage off ebay.
Oh and remember to mark the flanges at the gearbox and diff ends so that the tailshaft goes back in the same way ( as well as at the splines before seperating the tailshaft)

I used a screwdriver to tap the new bearing on and put a small hole in the rubber seal where the ball bearings are packed with grease so it will be interesting to see how long mine lasts befor ei need to replace it again...
 

Pollushon

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I attempted this on my VY SS (manual) today and it was not to be. Seems I have one of those shafts that just will not separate, even tried the hydraulic press at the mechanics up the road. Very inconvenient but what can you do, I have a reco jobbie inbound with new bearing and balanced for $330 due tomorrow, which considering my plans is probably for the best.

I didn't need the E20, found that there's enough movement via the uni and trans output
 

Corey 'Fishman'

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I'm not a mechanic either but I watched it on YouTube and did it myself and wasn't too complicated also i ordered parts off ebay there cheap enough
 

sandp

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I attempted this on my VY SS (manual) today and it was not to be. Seems I have one of those shafts that just will not separate, even tried the hydraulic press at the mechanics up the road. Very inconvenient but what can you do, I have a reco jobbie inbound with new bearing and balanced for $330 due tomorrow, which considering my plans is probably for the best.

I didn't need the E20, found that there's enough movement via the uni and trans output


Does the VY SS have a twin exhaust 'under' the driveshaft? Our VY V8 wagon makes driveshaft removal difficult, so I am aiming to pick up E-Torx socket tomorrow (can't get shaft clear after all bolts removed).
 
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