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Marinising a 304

delcowizzid

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The earth for the relays mustnt be big enough to handle the ignition module requirements as well and its cutting the earthing of the relays making them turn off and on.one big earth to the blocks fine.if it's running ok with the module there leave it or move it into the engine box area just to be sure it never causes issues and earth it to the block somewhere .the funny starting could be the fact you turn it off straight after starting before the crank enrichment has decayed out then you give it another hit of full crank enrichment on top straight away or the coolant sensor is reading cold water or the water has drained back away from it and reading no water at all messing with the starting enrichment
 

VK SL 3800

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I tested it today, starts perfectly hot now. Such a small mistake causing such a big problem.

I think ill put a bigger better earth on the module and run back to block. 8mm cable should of been plenty for 5 relays and the module you'd think?

Interesting point about the coolant temp sender, not sure how long it holds water for. it would drain to some degree but it also gets air locked by the pump so not sure. See how it behaves in real use.
 

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Module could just be on its way out. They do funny things...

Quite possible, its done 190k and original by the looks. Hopefully it not being exposed to so much under bonnet heat will help it.

I cant remember if the module make much heat themselves, they have cooling fins so must make a bit.
 

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Quite possible, its done 190k and original by the looks. Hopefully it not being exposed to so much under bonnet heat will help it.

I cant remember if the module make much heat themselves, they have cooling fins so must make a bit.
It's normal for them to be quite warm - you should be able to hold your hand on it though. The last one that failed on me was way too hot to touch. Seems that moisture is a killer for them though - make sure the rear cover is well sealed. TBH 190,000 is a good run for one. Buy another and keep the current one as a spare maybe?
 

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It's normal for them to be quite warm - you should be able to hold your hand on it though. The last one that failed on me was way too hot to touch. Seems that moisture is a killer for them though - make sure the rear cover is well sealed. TBH 190,000 is a good run for one. Buy another and keep the current one as a spare maybe?

ill have to get a spare for it, moisture shouldnt be to much of a problem. It would do well to get a splash from any normal use.

Current problem is alternator, it has to be revved to 3000rpm to excite. Wouldnt be a problem in a car but being a boat and stopping and starting a lot and not seeing 3000rpm everytime its a bit of an issue.

Alternator is brand new genuine Bosch, its charging fine but the light isnt going out. Ive got an LED indicator light wondering if this could be a problem.
Next thought was the alternator is spinning anti-clockwise as its driven off the flywheel end. Wondering if this may be why its hard to excite but doesnt explain the light not going out.
 

delcowizzid

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Is it a vt alt.its needs 12v direct to battery on the white wire and switched 12v through a 5w bulb on the brown wire led probably doesn't load it enough to start charging so the big rev gets it started
 

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Is it a vt alt.its needs 12v direct to battery on the white wire and switched 12v through a 5w bulb on the brown wire led probably doesn't load it enough to start charging so the big rev gets it started

Its the factory vs 5ltr alternator, i will put a proper bulb on the circuit and test.
Does the signal have to be a direct to battery connection? Im fairly sure thats what ive done but i may have put it through a relay i cant remember.
 

delcowizzid

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Yeah white sense wire straight to battery via a smallish fuse or the factory fusable link wire that attaches to the battery.you dontvwant to cut power to it or the big red charge wire while the engine is still turning it
 
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