Maximum lift at valve with series 2 l67 motor. I've got a 212 @ .050 retarded 2 degree with .507" of lift at valve with 1.6 rockers if I go to a 1.9 I'll be running .600" of lift which should really get it flowing but I can't honestly be bothered pulling heads plasticeening (spelling) the pistons to check the current clearance. Does anyone know what the max is ? Some zzp's are bloody cheap with The upgraded push rods and .600 thou should absolutely get it hauling.
Maximum recommended valve lift on stock heads is .515", any more and you start having issues with the valve spring retainer to valve guide seal interference. Using slim line type valve stem seals and retainers that have extra clearance underneath you can get another .030" clearance I believe. Once you over that you would need to machine the tops of the valve guides down to get more clearance/lift. I'm not sure at what point PTV clearance becomes an issue on these engines.
Yep way to hard not chasing anywhere near that much power to bother with all that cooler n more boost would come first. Thanks man!
TBH, it is a shame, I did see some flow numbers for stock heads and they continue to increase flow to about .600" lift so it's a shame not to make use of it, it's just not a bolt on mod sort of deal. It does explain why these engines respond well to the high ratio rockers though.
Yeah for sure just owning a 355 I see a fair few can set ups roller lifter or big solids hitting .600 or close to and the flows epic. When I heard some people are running baby cams with higher ratio rockers wondered if I could get on board.I've spent as much money on the basic mods as I'm prepared to as its actually in the wife's car. I know people will shut me down but the ridiculous amount people spend on these l67's for smallish gains but doesn't make sense to me. The rockers are the only affordable mod it doesn't have. Being in a manual ute with 600-1000lbs/inch rear springs the butt dyno should say its got plenty whether the paper says it does or doesn't haha. Hoping for 250whp but unsure how much I'm dreaming on that figure. Haven't seen much manual print outs to see how much HP loss their is compared to auto. I think it'd push 220 auto so another 12% or so would be nice. If it was my car I would have slapped a td06 25g on the side of it and called it a day LOL.
Stock the L67 is really under cooked Our L67 is also the missus daily too. One thing these engine really like is getting rid of the intake restrictions. The factory airbox and TB really choke these things, a good exhaust also helps. I think people tend to look at peak HP numbers to much, yes the L67 doesn't make huge peak power but it excels at low to mid range torque which is great on the street
This ones cammed, cooler plate between charger and lower intake manifold, 4.3" pulley , metal intake piping to stock airbox with a hole sawed in the side of the airbox base with a feed pipe to the front bumper as well as over radiatior feed, pacemakers , twin 2" cats into a twin 2.25" mild steel supercat exhaust system. So really all the cheap stuffs been done. I think I spent around $600 on top when I rebuilt it it was the best list I could come up without spending heaps of money. I almost had a heart attach when I saw that even if I sorted all the pipes out a cooler and tune was a couple k lol. Memcals an xu6 tune trimmed for 98 only with no timing pull before shift points being manual. Honestly with the original l36 getrag n 3.46's it was good fun so the whizzer should definitely wake it up.
It'll be a different beast with he manual for sure. In my mind, auto's tend to dumb down the power output, nothing like popping the clutch in a manual and just putting it all to the ground (or smoke)..... I think you mean 3.4" pulley. Stock pulley is 3.8" I just started re-tuning mine. I just fitted a MAT sensor so will be tuning it off the actual air temp in the LIM rather than what is happening in the airbox which is totally irrelevant on a blown engine. I just been up the road, stuck in traffic and when I finally got to give it a boot full air temps hit 98°C in the LIM but I'm not pulling any timing out till 104°C so it just got up and boogied
Yeah sounds good have you done a real time burn board to be able to rewrite the memcal while driving or kalmaker? The intake temps hit pretty wild numbers in the lim. Have you got a heat soak or intercooler or anything? Will be 3.4" got mistaken i try not to refer to it as a "ten psi" pulley as it annoys me as much as "stage 2 camshafts" etc. Keeping it manual was my choice and glad I got a say in it haha. Just had the bloke who was doing some wiring decide was to hard. So now time to find next person. Maybe one day I'll drive it.
I have got the NVram module but not using it on this car, just data logging and then burning a chip with changes to suit. No intercooling as yet. I will be fitting a 25mm spacer but to be honest after the numbers I've seen today I don't think it does much because the blower is generating heat when it compresses the air. I run a 82° thermostat so figure the engine is sitting at about said temps or maybe a bit higher. With the 3.4" pulley I'm getting Intake air temps around the 100° C coming out of the blower at full noise. I guess I'll see if it makes much difference to the heat soak I'm seeing in the LIM. Some time in the future I'll be toying with water/meth injection me thinks
That's the reason I bought the spacer plate I plan on drilling a hole in it epoxying a seventh injector piggy backed with a Hobbs valve to mist distilled water across the spacer under boost.
Something like that what was misting the water across it and where was it placed i couldn't see what was
Just saw it wow don't even need to use an injector that's a big mist from such a small jet! Wonder if a weber idle jet and a windscreen washer pump will be enough.
Probably not strong enough of a pump to overcome boost pressure and I imagine you'd need to use some sort of check valve to stop water being drawn in when the kit isn't in use
Can't remember what type of pump we used last time mate already had that. We used weber idle jets then but don't know how bigger difference it is as we were cooling it pre charger on a dcoe weber misting down the side of the trumpet using the cooled air/fuel to cool the turbo wheels down . I think the pump itself had a valve in it that opens and shuts so even if it did draw it would only draw through whats left in the 2mm line post pump. But being force and not vacuum I'm unsure if it'd draw. Maybe after it comes off boost and manifold goes from pressure to vacuum. Itll definitely be a trial and error thing as im not paying what they want for a kit lol. Thinking ill have a stainless tank fabbed up to sit between chassis rails behind radiator. Would be really cool to build it into two sections so that a second box that I can fill with water n put in the freezer or fill with dry ice sits over the water chamber. Having a "ten psi" pulley pending how much boost it'd actually make with the lower restriction of the raised charger height and different camshaft I'd have a Hobbs valve for 6 pound if it actually made ten as it no longer runs a boost cut off set up. Or maybe something that runs off the tps so that it only comes on over 75% throttle unsure how I'll set it up yet.