Hi Guy just wondering if any of you have a solution or a similar problem with your car. I have a 2003 V6 ectec auto from new with 90,000Km. I have a couple of mods to the motor, Pacemaker extractors and a 2.5 inch cat back system, K&N air filter & cold air intake from side of air box down and standard intake. Any way I took the cars to be Dyno the other day and found the engine was running to lean & pinged @ 4500rpm. I was told so many different things I done know where to start to fix this problem. I came home & a friend dropped around to see if the car was pinging. In neutral the car revved smoothly throw the whole range even at 6 grand. Then we took it for a drive keeping it in first gear we sat on each thousand rev and held it there and listened. 1,2,3,4,5,6 grand no ping. Is there a chance that when it was on the dyno the exhaust sensor they inserted in the tail pipe could have caused: back pressure. ( & would that make it ping?) or the other reasons put to me were, 1, Air flow meter not working properly. 2, Need new mamcal chip or flash $1300.00. 3, Flue filter blocked? The car feels great & runs great I just wanted to see if I could get any more power not to find problems.:bang: I also have a stock VY Equip V6 with 130,000km on it in excellent condition, when you drive the 2 you can feel the difference the mods have made. If any one as an idea's I would be greatfull. Cheers VY 777
Sounds like a sus dyno run to me. If it was pinging at any time it's going to do it on a hill. To test, put a bit of load in the car (Get a few mates) and find a hill. The ping zone will be just before it kicks back a cog. The mods you have listed have been done by hundreds of Commodore drivers and I'd bet none have Pinging. By chance was the dyno people offering the $1,300 re-tune??
best to post this under the correct section. then change the fuel filter and run some injector cleaner and see how things go
when i had my car tuned they ask me if i needed sprk plugs, air filter and fuel filter, i take it they didn't ask you? they should've also told you if your sensors were working correctly. what type of fuel do you run cos that will also make a difference.
Thanks Guys, I had them put new plugs in NGK's the old ones were only worn a little, done about 40K. But I thought if I am getting a dyno I will do the plugs. I run a K&N air filter that's just been cleaned * the car was running great to me I went looking for my next mod not a problem with pinging. One of the suggestions was a $1300.00 chip tune, If I was to have a mod chip or have mine flashed is it really worth it? Bang for bucks I mean. I am going to get a second opinion on the pinging cause I cant hear any & the cars going harder than ever. We have another stock VY V6 and you can feel the difference in performance, more power mid to top end, more aggressive acceleration. Make me wonder if the dyno was making it ping or was it a way to get me to spend more money? Cheers Col
Correct section One more thing I am new to the site and I appreciate any help! A couple of you guy said to post this in the correct section, were would that be? Cheers Col
depends where your located i had mine flash tuned for $176 on the dyno so i had no probs. also you don't state what fuel run because that will make a difference. as to correct sections you'll find that there is a spot for vy stuff, vr-vs, and so on for the specifics so your thread was moved to th vy section because its specific to a vy
Thanks for the heads up on posting, the fuel on the day was Optimax, I usually like to use Caltex Vortex 98.
maybe it was the optimax, most people i know normally use mobil 8000 or bp ultimate. maye run some octane booster if it happens again.
A problem that does arise is when the K&N air filter are cleaned and re-oiled. Excess oil from the K&N can collect on the MAF sensor wires & make the engines run dangerously lean at WOT (wide open throttle). This is usually what is happening on a dyno run (WOT). Pull your MAF sensor off the car and spray CRC CO Contact cleaner over the inside sensor wires & allow then to dry off (evaporates quickly). Another thing to remember, if your VY does that on the first dyno run, is it will take the PCM a couple of WOT runs to adust itself. When I did it on mine it had a lean AFR of 14.7 right through the run. On the next it took till mid way to drop to 13.0 then on the third it dropped to 13.0 as soon as the operator planted his foot to WOT. I alway use BP 98 so that might help things to. As for the price difference in tuning the VZ V6 is a totally different engine management to the VY V6. Cheers Deek
Great feel back mate I will try that before my next dyno run & Im going to start using BP Ultimate, I have heard a few stories about Shell Fuels. I will keep you up dated, thanks again Col
Yep, steer clear of shell fuel! My mates mate works for gilbarco who make and maintain all the fuel bowsers, now he reckons that when they are cleaning the guts of a bowser it usually takes ten minutes or so; not so with shell, to clean one of thier bowsers takes ages, he reckons they are all gummed up with sludge and crap. I personally havn't used shell since they went to half lead back in the nineties, and there's no f#@#ng way i would put it in me tank. I try to use vortex.
