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Mulitmeter help

hako

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My advice is to leave it where it is in the picture except move the dial to 20v just as mulligan-can says.
Also if you move the red lead to the next one up you will be bypassing the internal fuse - this means you can destroy your multimeter as that terminal is unfused....so I wouldn't risk that. That particular terminal is used when you want to measure current up to 10 amps and has a warning next to it saying it is unfused.
Edit: please don't ever be tempted to check household 240VAC as you will probably kill yourself and ain't nodoby going to be happy then.
 
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Cursed CX8

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that multimeter is only rated to 10A-DC. A car battery is around 450amps
 

88GreenVN

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I think I'll leave my MM in it's box. Safer that way by the look of it.
 

delcowizzid

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measuring voltage is fine amps has noting to do with it at all .but if testing current when multimeter is connected inline not connected in parrallel like testing volts .it will only handle 10amps when inline and set on amps setting
 

delcowizzid

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yeah leave it all plugged in like it is in the pic set on 20v dc and hook it to the battery.
 

WogBoyz

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kk thanks man

so when engine off it shud read 12v's and when running should say 14v's approx

and if i test it while it turns over should say about 9v's

that all correct?
 
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kk thanks man

so when engine off it shud read 12v's and when running should say 14v's approx

and if i test it while it turns over should say about 9v's

that all correct?

Why would you want to test it while it's turning over? Just curious? But no, it should, in theory if you have a decent battery, still read approx 12v.

As said before, 12-13v powered off is a suitable reading for a 12v battery. At least 13v while charging, 14v is a more common min as it will allow faster charging.

So long as the potential (voltage) across terminals when charging is greater than the potential across the terminals while in standby by about 2v your charging system is working fine. NB, standby must be >= 12v

Warning:
Do NOT move the "red" lead from the present location unless you plan on measuring currents. It is, as said above, unfused. It is also NOT connected to the rest of the multimeter, only the ammeter mode will work (on mine and any that I have used anyway).

Anyway mate, everything you need to know about checking the basic condition of a battery has been answered here. If you want to get a better idea of the health of it then go out and grab a load box + impedance tester.

Now, go out and make some sparks! (or play with the multimeter, whichever you prefer)

Mega Warning!!!!:
DO NOT EVER USE THIS MULTIMETER FOR HOUSEHOLD TESTING.

It is essentially "uncalibrated" and lacks any decent insulation and safety rating.

It is suitable for ELV DC/AC (extremely low voltage ie < 50vac or 100vdc) ONLY.
 
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