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losh1971
Guest
What makes you think all four have gone?
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It’s not even that easy.yep and we are supposed to be advancing, as i mentioned previously you should be given the option to buy or given a scanner and a how to book for dummies when buying these new car.
because the scanner says so, 4 fault codes x 4 wheelsWhat makes you think all four have gone?
from what i have been able to gather so far is there should be +12v down one wire then as the (i am guessing here) magnet passes the tip of the sensor creates a magnetic field with in the sensor and send the signal up to the EBCU, so this is similar to a crankshaft sensor or a camshaft sensor where they usually have +5v down one wire then when the trigger happens it sends the signal to the ECU so as to know when to squirt fuel in and when to fire, it is a bit like a lawn mower where you have the permanent magnets pass the coil and create an magnetic field collapse and with the aid of a set of points and a condenser we got the high voltage spark, so that has all changed now similar to cars and have electronic ignition, but basically everything must have a way of creating the pulse signal and this is what i am going to trace down, i will not stop at this till i have a positive outcome and not by chance but by pure thought,logic, and testing.as i was thinking the wheel sensors are inductive it seems like the VE they are not ( changed style after VZ) so since yours have 12v to one side and the other just closes as the teeth go past it may not have any resistance to test for and may be as simple as a reed switch within and a magnet on one side and when the tooth passes by it disrupts the magnetism and causes the pulse (guessing on that one tho) but it will just be a simple switch of sorts, should be easy to test on bench knowing the power in and just put it next to metal and it should close circuit then putting power out the opposite terminal, same way u can test it in vehicle know 12v in put multi-meter on other wire to see if it pulses with power as wheel turns, or encase its another style sensor the 12v supplied power will drop to zero and back ''pulsing'' as wheel is turning very slowly, if no power changes what so ever then that is an issue
this is correct that is why i have been asking questions, i will repeat my self, you don't just driving along then all of a sudden chimes start going off warning you the you have a wheel speed sensor issue. so upon further investigation it shows i have a fault for each wheel sensor (so one common output or input signal) that the ABS is showing the fault, so i have been in this game for 40+ years but things are just growing at a rapid pace. Take a look at when computers first started, i brought a commodore Vic 20 with mainly a tape back up system (floppy drive was dear and people just could not afford it), then next thing it was a c64 with the floppy drive at a greatly reduced price,then next the c128, then the Amiga 500, then the Amiga 1000 then the Amiga 1200 the PC market just kept growing and growing as is with cars, they are developing things and putting them on cars quicker than mechanics can keep up with the technology and then they have to have all this testing equipment that will either find the fault very quickly or the customers car stays in the workshop for a week while they get a lend car.That suggests the fault is else where. I’d investigate where they all come together.