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My S-Pack system

HamaTime™

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ok well I have bought my headunit, I got the Alpine iDA-X200 (direct ipod control unit)


Now I am ready to start installing some stuff

What i have to work with now is the headunit and these speakers:

  • JL Audio front 6" splits
  • 6" Rockford Fosgate rears (on parcel shelf)
  • 2 Tweeters on the dash

Now my mate has a MTX RoadThunder RT404 amp


and a MTX 12" sub 200 Watts RMS and 400 max (no box) brand new that he never got around to putting in his accord and offered both of them to me for $150, i could get a box for like $30 or make one myself

Now, I don't know anything about amps or subs, so apparently the speakers in the car (6"JL Audio and Rockford Fosgate's) are like really good, and the guy who had the car before me had a Audio Mobile Acoustic 150WX4 amplifier which runs the six speakers in the car as well as a Rockford Fosgate bd1500.1 amplifier which ran the two 15" subwoofers.

I only want a single 12" sub, though I don't know which one I'm going to get yet, unless the MTX sub so I want to know these things.

Will one amp be enough? Can I run the 2 front 6" splits and the two tweeters off the headunit? and can I run the single 12" MTX sub (200 watts RMS 400 Max) and the rear 2 splits off the MTX 404?

or..

is the MTX gear not enough?

suggestions on amps? how many amps? and different 12" subs

I don't want to rush into this, I want to get some good gear that I don't have to replace, and I want to get a nice good sounding system, that works for all types of music from Metal to Electro/Trance aka doof doof
 

holdenboy

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Alrighty, to start off with the tweeters in the dash, are they part of the JL Audio splits or are they another set of tweeters? (so 4 tweeters in the front).

The amplifier situation - you wanna do it the opposite way to how youve described, run the front splits off the amp and bridge the rear channels of the amp to power the sub.

In my opinion 75wrms is just enough to power the front splits, but the 150wrms to power the sub probably isnt going to be enough. I would purchase another dedicated amplifier to power the sub, something with about 250-350wrms would be ideal.

The MTX sub sounds fine, just build/buy a sealed enclosure for it (about 1-1.5 cubic foot) and it'll sound good with all types of music.


As far as suggestions go :

* Buy a more powerful 4 channel amplifier, something with 100-150wrms per channel. That way you can run the front splits off the front channels and bridge the rears to run the sub.
* Use the MTX amp to run the fronts (bridged), or fronts and rears, then purchase a second amp run the subwoofer (the Jaycar 2 x 150 / 1 x 500) would be ideal.
 

HamaTime™

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The tweeters are seperate, so I have the 2 6" JL's in the doors, 2 6" Rockford Fosgate's in the rear on the parcel shelf, and 2 tweeters on the top of the dash in their usual factory spot.

So I should get the MTX sub?

and get 2 seperate amps, 1 to power the speakers, and 1 to run the sub, the headunit obviously doesn't run anything then? will this make it a better system or is it just more power efficient, or powerful?

also explain the process of 'bridging' and any specific suggestions of amp's? just for reference
 

holdenboy

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Yeah the tweeters in the dash are apart of the JL Audio speakers (thats why they call them "splits").

The MTX sub should be fine.

Yeah the h/u can either run the rear speakers or you can power the rear speakers off the MTX amp. I would personally run the rears off the h/u and "bridge" (i'll get to that) the MTX amp to run the front speakers. The reason for this is because you rarely sit in the rear and you want most of the sound to come from the front speakers (where you are).

"Bridging" just means to connect two channels of an amp into one channel, which usually doubles the power going to the speaker/sub. This basically means you speakers will be able to play louder without distorting, theres more to it than that but its all you need to know right now.

The Jaycar amp i suggested to power your subwoofer is this one:
Precision Response Car Amp 2x150WRMS - Jaycar Electronics
Its got more than enough power to run your sub (500wrms), and its good value. I can suggest a hell of alot more amps, but just have a search through sites like Ryda (RYDA.com.au - Great Prices on Car Audio, Mobile Phones and GPS Navigation) and have a look for 2ch amps that produce 250-400wrms x 1 (in bridged mode).
 

SPLcamry

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well for a amp i would go with a Digital Desgin M3 amp, this produces 2400rms @ 1ohm and as for a sub i would go a Digital Desgin 9515. If you get this you will be very happpy. This will blast what the people above me posted. You will get into the high 140's if you build the right box.

But however you would need a DEEP CYCLE battery mounted in the back aswell as one under the bonnet, this is to insure that the volts don't drop under 12v. All up this would cost around $4400 but this will outlast any other sub and amp in the market, Plus it's better then rockford fosgate and MTX.
 

Joe Peeps

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well for a amp i would go with a Digital Desgin M3 amp, this produces 2400rms @ 1ohm and as for a sub i would go a Digital Desgin 9515. If you get this you will be very happpy. This will blast what the people above me posted. You will get into the high 140's if you build the right box.

But however you would need a DEEP CYCLE battery mounted in the back aswell as one under the bonnet, this is to insure that the volts don't drop under 12v. All up this would cost around $4400 but this will outlast any other sub and amp in the market, Plus it's better then rockford fosgate and MTX.
lol - the guy is looking at $200 gear and your throwing out $4k pricetags. Hamaman whats your budget bud?

id be looking at a 4 chan amp and single sub setup as suggested originally by Holden boy.
 
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holdenboy

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lol, i'll agree you cant compare a MTX amp, MTX sub and a Jaycar amp to DD 95 series sub and a M3........But for 1 eighth of the price it will sound good and last many years if installed properly and not thrashed.
 

HamaTime™

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lol - the guy is looking at $200 gear and your throwing out $4k pricetags. Hamaman whats your budget bud?

id be looking at a 4 chan amp and single sub setup as suggested originally by Holden boy.
Yeah $4k is really not a good idea...

my budget is around $200 - $300...my mate has a 800 watt single channel Pioneer amp that he said would be sweet to run the sub, and I was thinking I could get the MTX 12" sub and RT404 amp to run the speakers...for $150...so yeah...what do you guys think?
 

acarmody

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That MTX RT404 only puts out 37.5WRMS at 4ohm so unless the JL and Rockford splits are rated at 2ohm then they aren't really getting that much power at all.

As for the Pioneer mono, if it is a GM-7300M then they are a good amp, I had one powering a set of Pioneer TS-W307D2s and it was great. But if you try and hook that amp up to that MTX sub, then unless you get it properly tuned, then you will overpower the sub and kill it.

Have a look around both shops and Ebay:
MTX Audio Thunder3404 400W Amplifier - Preowned - eBay Amplifiers, Audio, Video, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 23-Mar-09 13:11:52 AEDST)
Sony Xplod 4/3 Channel Power Amplifier XM-SD14X - eBay Amplifiers, Audio, Video, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 23-Mar-09 20:16:53 AEDST)
New SOUNDSTREAM XTA480.4 480watts 4 Channel Amplifier - eBay Amplifiers, Audio, Video, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 23-Mar-09 21:30:00 AEDST)

This one looks like a great buy
CADENCE HIGH POWER 4 CHANNEL AUDIO AMPLIFIER - eBay Amplifiers, Audio, Video, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 24-Mar-09 17:49:38 AEDST)
 

acarmody

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On second thoughts that Pioneer amp might be perfect, if the MTX sub is a 4ohm single coil or a 2ohm dual coil then the Pioneer amp would only put out 200WRMS. So the sub would be running at its max potential and you always have the option of putting a second sub in later and doubling the bass.
 
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