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My VE SS DIY Cam swap and post tune thoughts/experiences. L98 M6.

jwoodsy

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Hey Guys,

I just thought id share with you the path I took to getting my Cam installed myself and my thoughts after the install. There wasn't much around in terms of cam installs specific to VE's so hopefully this will help others out. Please note this is showing how I did my MANUAL Ute. If you have an auto you will need to somehow stop the engine turning, maybe a flywheel locking tool. Suss it out. Also I am not held responsible for any damage you may cause to your vehicle.
Since getting my Ute a couple of years ago I’ve always wanted to put a decently lumpy cam in and feel it pull like a train. In the past year or so I put on a 3 inch catback and 1 3/4 ss headers, 100 cell cats. It already had a mafless Duspeed OTR. I seriously had to bide my time on Ebay and Gumtree to get good deals on these and was worth the wait for a good buy.
P.S. I apologise for the lack of pictures. I was determined to take heaps but 1/3 of the way through I was just that hooked on the job I didn't think about it.

20131206_202154_zps6fc0ee91.jpg


I had been pondering the idea of getting a cam for the past couple of months, but was hesitant as I'm heading over to Europe in Feb 2014 and wanted to save the coin. Even though I hadn't planned on getting a cam I researched like crazy on what people have, any issues people have had, power figures, drivability issues, fuel consumption and most importantly install guides. If I was going to get this done, I would be the one to install it (to save the coin). And like anything new I do, I read and read and read until I understand the whole process, the parts, the tricks and the consequences of stuffing up.

The defining moment was a couple of weeks ago I dropped in at 7/11 to grab my (one of many) morning coffees (not that bad imho), and there was this ssv Ute parked, gurgling away, lumpy as f***. Pure sex I thought. And that was it.
I was already planning on going through Oztrack in Penrith, as I had heard of many happy customers and seem to have a good reputation. Plus they're pretty close. I was tossing up between the Stealth 2 and HPO cam. But since I couldn't make up my mind I chose the GTA, which is in between the 2 (duration avg 233 I think). Keeping in mind it’s a daily driver and drivability and fuel consumption are a little important.
So I ordered my kit early last week and it arrived on Friday. The kit included:

  • New cam
  • Double valve springs
  • Titanium Retainers
  • New bases
  • New seals
  • Chrome moly push rods
  • LS7 3 bolt sprocket kit and ARP bolts to suit
  • And 1 Dyno tune (or remote tune if you prefer)

20131129_163437_zps4068b82b.jpg


So, with the research I had done, I knew I needed the following. I will outline what I should have bought, but didn't:

  • OEM or ARP crank Bolt, I don't think it matters, I got GM, $30.
  • A longer crank bolt to assist in installing balancer, HIGHLY recommended, M16x2.0x120mm.
  • 2x Water pump gaskets. I bought 2 @ $9 ea. Cheap assurance, but I would probably be fine without as the old ones were good.
  • 3 Jaw pulley remover. I thought it would be a good idea to get the biggest one supercheap had (I’ve seen bigger). Well it was too big. I had to cut the unused ends of the puller so it would come closer together and get narrower. I think the next size down would be fine. (I got the 150mm, $40)
  • 2 x 8mm wooden dowel. This was the perfect size for me. I got 9mm but was too big. They sell lengths of 1.2m in Bunnings which is perfect. $4.
  • Pen magnet. One of the most handy tools in the whole install. Essential for grabbing the locks. I got a kinchrome one with a light on the end which was very handy. $10.
  • T40 torx bit. I bought a set for about $10. Needed to remove cam retainer plate.
  • Medium strength loctite to keep them bolts down.
  • Anti seize if available, for the spark plugs.
  • 1/2 inch torque wrench.
  • VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR. OK, I stupidly got a cheap $40 compressor from my local parts joint. It was the wind down like this http://typhoononline.com.au/images/08083_A.jpg . The arms that press down onto the top of the stock spring were too wide so I had to bend it inwards to make proper contact to remove the springs. This caused the tool to eventually buckle after about 4 springs. I kept bending the arms out as it buckled and as springs snapped in my hand! This was the most frustrating/annoying/lengthy part of the install. I highly recommend getting a good spring compressor that might bolt to the rocker arm bolts and wind down. I was offered one with my cam package, comp cams compressor I think, $220. I couldn't justify it then, but I certainly could now!!!
  • Front engine oil seal. It fits onto the timing cover to seal the crank. Must replace. $74!
  • Oil and Filer for after the install
  • RTV hi temp silicon, for sealing bottom timing cover

OPTIONAL
Timing Cover Seal. After researching, I did not replace mine. They seem to hold up fine. Though I did apply a small smear of RTV to be safe.
Leak down test kit. Used to apply compressed air into the chamber to hold the valves up. I didn't use this method. I just wasn't convinced that the air pressure would push the valve up if it were down when releasing the spring. I didn't think it was 100% safe. I used another method where you rotate the engine to get certain cylinders at the top of the chamber, so that when the springs released the valves they would only fall about 5mm and hit the top of the pistons. PLUS you can check 100% that the cylinder is at the top by inserting a small length of dowel in through the spark plug hole. You will feel the top of the piston. I will explain this later.

So at this stage I’m not planning on writing a complete DIY. Rather share my experiences/studied documents that may or may not be specific to the VE. The guides below are pretty good.
These are links to the documents I studied on. They are How To's for the LS1's and LS2's. Though they still apply to the L98.

This is a great write up for the LS2. It lists pretty much all tools/parts needed and also goes through the whole process step by step.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxAucxyuysb-NTgxZTNhNGItNmMzZC00NjY1LTg4NTEtOWMwMzZlYzc4MjVj/edit?pli=1&hl=en_US#

Another version of the above from a great How To website.
LS1Howto.com

This link has several documents relating to the install of LS1 cams, springs, rockers etc.
Ls1 camshaft installation - free eBooks download

The last page link I have is the only one I found specific to the VE. Mods if this link is not allowed then please remove.
Australian LS1 and Holden Forums

Here are a few videos that will also assist.

LS1 Camaro Cam and Valvespring swap - YouTube

This one has a few parts
Ls1 cam swap Part 1 - YouTube

This one is for a 5.3L LM7, but uses the same process. Once again there are a couple of parts.
How to Install a Comp Cam in a 5.3L LM7 Part 1 - YouTube

And one more.
LS3 Cam Upgrade - Southern Performance Systems - YouTube

I highly recommend you watch these videos at least a couple of times if this is your first cam swap (like mine). Very helpful on what to expect visually.

Ill briefly go through the steps I took through the install. Once again more detailed info is in the guides above.

1. I drained my radiator. I also dropped the oil and changed oil filter while I was under there. Pretty straight forward.
2. Removed my Duspeed. Every intake is different. Also removed all hoses coming from the radiator. Unplugged fans.
3. My OTR held in the top of the radiator. If yours doesn't then undo the 2 clip type things on top of the radiator. Separate it from the condenser.
4. Taking the radiator out is tricky. It has 2 tabs at the bottom that the condenser sits on. So you have to pull the radiator back and pull the condenser forward to make room for the tabs to slide up. It may be easier taking off ALL A/C line brackets from the body now to help it move. You need to do this later anyway. One more thing there is this annoying wire that runs from the firewall, down across the radiator and then in behind the passenger headlight. Don't know what it’s for but the radiator only JUST squeezes past it with a bit of tension. So be careful. Oh if you have an auto you'll have to disconnect the tranny cooler as well.

20131129_172400_zpsa736a59f.jpg


5. Take off serpentine belt. Take off water pump. 15mm bolts. I had to take off the belt tensioner to get to some bolts.
6. Remove balancer bolt. If manual put in gear, if auto..... buy a manual :p. I used quite a long 1/2 inch breaker bar from supercheap, about $25 I think. 24mm socket. Came off without too much fuss.
7. Remove harmonic balancer. As stated above, I had to cut my 3 arm puller so it could fit (must go inside the balancer, not on the outside). It was a 150mm puller so get something smaller. Wind in the balancer bolt a few turns and use it to press the puller on. Just go easy and watch it come off slowly. Swap to the longer balancer bolt you bought if you need the extra length.

20131129_195049_zps3a6a93a3.jpg


8. Remove timing cover. 10mm bolts. The 2 underneath are tricky. The battery cable and tray is close so I bent it down to get room. Might be stuck on so lightly tap with wood or mallet.
9. I then moved to the top and removed spark plugs, leads, coil packs and connections. Then removed rocker covers.
10. Then removed the rocker bolts and rockers. 8mm. Pretty simple but tight. I kept mine in the rail so I didn't mix them up. Pull out pushrods and keep in order is re using.
11. Back to the bottom, I put No. 1 at TDC. Line up the timing marks so they meet. Cam mark at 6 o’clock. Crank mark at 12 o’clock. See the guides.
12. Now you'll see the tensioner. If you push the left side outwards you can fit a small allen key into the hole which locks it in.
13.One last check that the timing marks line up...
14. Once again I put the car in gear. Undo the single cam bolt. Pretty tight but not too bad. Slide off sprocket with chain. Let chain drop down.
15. Undo cam retainer plate using the T40 torx bit. Simple.
16. Thread 2 water pump bolts into cam and spin a few times. Insert 8mm dowel into the channels you can see on either side of the cam. If it gets tight just spin the cam a bit more. I had no issues.
17. Now before pulling out the cam I had to move the A/C condenser. Grab a beer because this is a pain in the ass! Making sure all the lines were unbolted, I slowly worked the condenser up. The end position I got it in was to have the driver’s side lifted up while the passenger side was still down as it has less slack. I'm sure I slightly bent a few lines, but I think it’s needed. I hung it to the bonnet. I still didn't have exactly enough room as I had to push up slightly while pulling the cam out. Just try be patient and remember it can be done!
18. Pulling the cam out is pretty straight forward. Keep spinning the cam while gently pulling. Always try and support the end of the cam while removing and be extremely careful of clipping the bearings! Try to keep the cam even/level. I had to lift up the condenser with my arm while pulling the cam out.
19. Now I got my new cam out. I sprayed with some break cleaner and wiped off with a clean rag. I used motor oil to lube the first half of the cam. It slid in past the first 2 bearings fine. I got to the 3rd and it just didn't want to go. I thought ok I mustn't be lining it up properly. Pulled out a bit, tried again. No luck. My heart was slowly sinking. I thought I may have clipped a bearing, and was crapping bricks! Then my thoughts were that I got the wrong cam size and was never meant to fit. Couple of beers and about an hour later a thought I would wash the new cam in warm soapy water, dry it and make sure it stays completely spotless. Oiled her up and she went straight it, though was a little tight. I then got that awesome feeling where you thought you totally fu**** up, then realized you didn't. :w00t:
20. Remove the dowel. I then re installed the retainer plate
21. This VITAL part could be tricky, lining up the timing marks with the new cam. I literally kept checking the marks constantly from here on. I spun the cam until I saw the dowel at 3 o'clock. Checked that the crank timing mark is still at 12 o'clock, sat the new cam sprocket inside the chain (making sure the dowel hole on the gear is also at 3 o'clock) and slid the sprocket onto the cam. The cam may spin or slide back, just keep trying. I luckily got this first go, though it could of been a pain also. Just check that the dots line up. If they don't, take the sprocket off and keep trying.
!!From the research I have done, if your off, it will be by a whole link/tooth, and should be deadly obvious!!
22. I then bolted the sprocket to the cam to the torque spec. Also used Loctite. Remove allen key from tensioner.
CAM IS IN!!:beer chug::beer chug: Few well deserved beers.
23. Now back up the top! I'm going to explain the method of TDC to change the springs. You could use the compressed air method, but as above I didn't like it.
With the timing marks lined up cylinder 1 is at TDC. Which means you can swap the springs on cylinders 1 and 6. Before I proceeded to do a new cylinder I ALWAYS checked, with a wooden dowel in the spark plug hole, that I could touch the piston. After you swap 1 & 6, rotate the engine 90 degrees and you can do 8 & 5, rotate 90 and do 7 & 4, rotate 90 and do 3 & 2. I always physically checked the piston was up before proceeding.
24. Removing the springs. PLEASE buy a good spring compressor. As stated above I bought a cheap one which was terrible. It could save you an hour or 2. I compressed the spring a few turns, then tapped the retainer with a hammer to loosen the locks. I kept winding down until I could use the magnet to pick up the locks. I removed and uncompressed the spring and removed the base/seal combo gently with pliers. I then wiped around were the new seats would go, the valve stem and guide and also cleaned up any crap around the edge of the guides. I put the new seat in. The old seats had the seal built in, where as the new ones I got were just a spring seat, and the seal just sits over the valve guide (see below). I smeared oil onto the valve stem, guides and inside the seal. I placed the seal onto the valve guide and pushed down firmly so it stays. I grabbed a deep 12mm socket and sat it on top of the seal evenly and with a hammer gently tapped the seal down evenly. There was a gap between the seal and seat, but I read that it’s the way it is. Placed the spring on the seat and retainer on the spring (both ends of my spring were the same). I then compressed the spring as much as I could. I did this out of the engine bay as I had the wind down type, then placed the compressed spring over the valve stem. With a greased up lock in my hand I placed it into the groove until it sat in properly. The 1st one is easy. Grab the second lock and seat it into the other side. Once I thought I had them in place I slowly undid the tool, checking they lock in. Its dead obvious when they're in properly so don't stress.

20131130_183201_zps49be988a.jpg


!!Couple of tips (If using wind down compressor). A: I used double springs so as I could only compressed 2/3 of the spring (any more and the arms of the tool will hit the seals), there was a bit of the inner spring poking out the bottom. When trying to install the locks and need more depth, push the spring down into the head and you can get an extra few mm which is really helpful. B: If using the TDC method of holding the valves up they usually fall about 5mm to touch the piston. On most of my valves I could pull them up those few extra mm and they would stay up, giving more room to install the locks. Repeat for all the springs in conjunction with your chosen valve hold up method.
25. Now the re assembly! I re installed the spark plugs with a dab of anti seize. Install new pushrods, or if using the old ones put them where they came from. Install rockers and rail on correct side/position. Use Loctite on the bolts. Torque the bolts, rotate crank 180 degrees, and then torque again. I did this a couple of times to be sure. Also check that the pushrods sit into the rockers properly and that the rockers straighten up after being torqued. Mine were fine.
26. Now I turned my crankshaft a few rotations, just to check everything is ok and nothing is hitting. It'll be tough as its building compression. If you can’t turn the crank and get stuck, you stuffed up the timing marks or the cam is way too big.
27. Re install valve covers, coil covers and spark plug leads. Do not connect the big white coil pack harness yet!
28. Installed front engine seal. I tapped the old one off with a screwdriver. Was pretty tight. I applied some grease to the new one to assist. I started it with a hammer tapping around the edges then used a block of wood, making sure it was in all the way.
29. Prep timing cover. I cleaned both surfaces of any crap/silicon. My seal was ok. Apply a bead of RTV silicon to the bottom of the timing cover. I also put a bit on the rest of the cover next to the seal, just to be sure. Place the timing cover on and put the bolts on finger tight only. I highly recommend starting the 2 at the bottom first as it becomes a pain if left until last.
30. Install the balancer. I made sure the crank shaft and the puller were spotless, and also gave a light rub with some wet and dry. I installed the balancer by hand, then threaded in my longer crank bolt to wind it in. When I ran out of thread I used the old crank bolt and tightened it as much as I could. They recommend 240lb/ft but my torque wrench didn't reach that. I removed the old bolt and installed the new bolt and torqued to 37lb/ft. They say you should then stretch the bolt in by turning it an additional 140 degrees. I used a marker to mark the bolt. I only got about 100 degrees which I've read is fine. This process centres the cover on the crank.
31. I then tightened the timing cover to spec, installed the A/C belt and installed the water pump using the 2 torque sequences. I had new gaskets but the old ones were good. Re installed tensioner and the main drive belt.
ALMOST THERE. Fingers hurting...
32. Time to get the radiator in. I bolted the A/C lines that would be covered by the radiator. It can be tricky getting it in because of the tabs at the bottom. I don’t think there is a trick to this, just get the condenser to the front as much as possible and the radiator to the back. I kept working at it bit by bit, taking care of the fins of the condenser. Think I got it done in about 10 minutes. Then bolted down the rest of the A/C lines and bolted the condenser to the radiator. Installed all radiator/coolant hoses and connected the fans up. Also installed my intake.
!! I was advised from MY tuner to drill a 4mm hole in my throttle body butterfly. Which I did. This is because I was going to be driving it for a couple of days without a tune and it helps with idle. Ask your tuner/shop if this is necessary as every cam is different !!
33. I topped up my radiator and filled with oil. I did a final check of all bolts and hoses, fluid levels.

At this point I sat down with a cold one and was confirming in my head that everything had been done correctly as I needed to be 100% sure. I was reading through my Haynes manual/guides and I asked myself at each step "did I do this?". And if I knew I did then that's it, next step. I found this to be a good method of checking over everything.
I left the radiator cap off and made sure the coil harness was unplugged, got in the car and put the key in. A little prayer was said, and I cranked it over for a few seconds. NO BANGS!:spot on:
I connected the coil harness, and gave it a proper kick in the guts. She ticked over beautifully!

[video=youtube_share;Su8cw6dCPXc]http://youtu.be/Su8cw6dCPXc[/video]

The lifters were making quite a racket as could be expected as they need to pump up with oil. Bit of smoke from the engine bay from crap on the headers and stuff. The idle was ok but pretty rough. Was idling good for 5 mins then started to stall a bit. I guess I could of gone a bigger hole in the T/B but I left it as it was. I kept topping up coolant until full. I let it get warm, turned her off and checked all fluid levels and checked for any leaks. Had some coolant leaking from the front heater hose coming off the water pump. Probably due to me removing them a few times from replacing the coolant and re routing the hoses down the side of the bay. I just put a proper hose clamp on and tightened.

I had no check engine lights, and surprisingly not that much noise from the valve train. The sound was sweet!

So I had to drive it to work and back Monday and get it to Oztrack on Tuesday. She was stalling at the lights after about 20 seconds so I had to keep the revs up. I didn't hammer it once before the tune, probably just me being paranoid.

So on Tuesday I took it to Oztrack. Steve gave it a base tune to keep it idling right so we could take it for a drive to do some logging. After about an hour of driving and flashing Steve had it running pretty solid. He's a pretty knowledgeable guy. I was given a few options for different idles which did not affect the drivability/performance. I chose a rough but not too extreme idle.

On the dyno she went.
[video=youtube_share;AbmcCEig9io]http://youtu.be/AbmcCEig9io[/video]

So this was my result.
20131203_2114581_zps2ec28f5c.jpg


By the way, does anyone know the 'proper' way to convert newtons (tractive force?) to Newton Meters? I've seen a few but not sure on the true method.

I am pretty bloody pleased with the results. Pulls like an absolute train. Really feel it from 4000, I personally start turtle neckin at 5000 rpm :driving:
I’m really going to have to get used to riding the clutch a bit in car parks and such. To avoid the pig rooting. Apart from that it drives absolutely fine, much better than expected. Obviously I can’t comment on fuel usage yet :whistling , but I will one day haha.
I also loved the challenge of the install. I’m not a mechanic but I’m good with my hands and my tools, and as stated at the start if you research the crap out of something and get to know every aspect then you can do it if your confident.

Well it seems I have written a small novel here haha. It seems not that far from a proper DIY so if anyone thinks I should top it off I might.
Once again this is just sharing my experiences with the JustCommodore community as it may help others.
I hope the links I have posted are allowed as they are a great reference.
If anyone has any questions ill try to help and if I can’t I’m sure one of the many experienced users will.
Also if i got something wrong let me know!
Cheers Guys
Jwoodsy
 
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WazzaVN

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Very good mate! I've bought a book from the states on installing cams because I plan to do this when I can afford the gear. Good to see people giving it a go, allot of the people on here would say "why would you risk your engine :blah blah:" so seeing it done successfully by a diy'er has given me more inspiration!

Plus rep.
 

blackve76

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Nice write up, its a enjoyable job

Buy one of these, heaps easier and I sold mine after for what I paid in US

Crane 99475 1 Valve Spring Compressor GM L92 LS3 | eBay.

Only other thing I would do is get degree wheel so you can check the cam alignment, dot to dot isn't perfect. My comp cam was 3 degrees out.

Enjoy the cam!!!!
 

jwoodsy

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Very good mate! I've bought a book from the states on installing cams because I plan to do this when I can afford the gear. Good to see people giving it a go, allot of the people on here would say "why would you risk your engine :blah blah:" so seeing it done successfully by a diy'er has given me more inspiration!

Plus rep.

Cheers mate. Yea i think allot of people are freaked out by the job. Its pretty straight forward so long as you know your way around an engine bay.
 

jwoodsy

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Nice write up, its a enjoyable job

Buy one of these, heaps easier and I sold mine after for what I paid in US

Crane 99475 1 Valve Spring Compressor GM L92 LS3 | eBay.

Only other thing I would do is get degree wheel so you can check the cam alignment, dot to dot isn't perfect. My comp cam was 3 degrees out.

Enjoy the cam!!!!
Thanks mate. It is enjoyable. I will definitely be getting one of those compressors if there is a next time!
Yea i read about degreeing the cam. A few sources stated that for street use it will be fine without it. I think ill suss it out next time for piece of mind/the experience.
 

Dougie1965

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Hi Woodsy,

Did you have to remove the lifters or did you leave them in

Dougie
 

Dougie1965

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Hi Woodsie,

Understand the 8mm dowel now lol. simple

Dougie
 

poorchansporsche

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Thought it was worthwhile registering to this forum to commend your detailed tutorial.

Not sure if you've got an answer to your question after 4 years re: tractive effort to Nm and I'm not sure what I'm proposing is correct but here goes:

Assuming 245/45/18 tyre size and 3.45:1 final drive ratio,

Your tyre rolling diameter is 0.677m and hence radius is 0.338m.
For the sake of convenience, taking your tractive effort as 6000 N.

Wheel torque is derived as force x radius so that gives you 2028Nm at the wheels in whatever gear was used at the time. But I assume the parameter of greater interest here is how much torque the engine makes. (The measure of tractive effort is actually a very useful tool in determining maximum possible acceleration.)

To work out the torque that was coming out of your gearbox (assuming the dyno pull was done in the gear closest to 1:1, the torque here will also reflect the torque of the engine), divide through by the final drive ratio for 587Nm.

Seems plausible but I'm very rusty on these calcs.
 
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