Hey guys, I live in Victoria, and am driving to Perth on sunday. Tonight I found out my fuel tank has a hole in it. Not exactly what I had planned, seeing as im mighty busy already getting things ready to go.... Is there anyway to repair the hole? I've heard you can solder it? (Obviously drain it first) But how long would it last? Is it a big job to change out a fuel tank with another one from a wrecker, would this be the preferred option? If anyone lives in Ballarat or Maryborough area and has a spare tank for a 92' VP (I'm pretty sure its a 63L tank...) I would be interested in buying it asap~! Thanks guys, any help appreciated!
Here's a long shot to try. with an empty tank get some rought sandpaper(say 120 grit wet and dry) and roughly sand the area around the hole. go to repco or hardware store and buy some Knead it steel (epoxy Putty) wipe the area with thinners or better still Acetone. Can buy it cheap anywhere. push the putty into the hole and rub it out towards the outer edges of the area of the hole and leave for a day or overnight. Iv'e sealed up a crack from the inside of an alloy carby with success so it might work. but make sure the area is rubbed back and grease free. Goodluck if you try it. PS whats with the scale thingy. I,m new here.
i don't know if it is the same stuff. but i got some stuff from a servo once. it is two parts and ya knead it together and before that clean the serface up like do flyin dutchy said. and it sets pretty quick. i had a triton which was duel fuel and once the gas was playing up and it wouldn't run that well and went to put fuel in it and it was leaking out so i tried this radiator and fuel tank sealant i got from the servo and it worked great. i also tried it on a sump once and it worked great. it set rock hard..
According to the Geogory's Depressurise the fuel system. Disconnect the battery. Drain the fuel tank. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the fuel hose from the fuel gauge sender unit. Disconnect the wiring connector from the fuel gauge sender. Remove the stone guard from the right hand wheel arch. Disconnect the fuel vapour hose from the charcoal cannister. Support the tank and remove the bolts and nuts on the support strap. Lower the tank slightly and remove the vapour hoses on the top of the tank. Lower the tank and filler neck assembly. Personally I would change the tank particularly if you driving to Perth from Melbourne.
If you want to repair it, that putty stuff can be ok for a temporary repair...but...for the long run I'd patch it. I know you're a bit tight on time so doing the putty thing is probably the best for now- you may even be able to do it without taking the tank out- park the car on enough of a slope and the petrol might run away for the hole enough for you to clean and poop it. Maybe:whistling . Here's another hint- if the putty fails on you and you have a little pin hole, you can rub a bar of soap over the hole for a temporary repair as well....if you happen to have a bar of soap on you... Once you get to our wonderful state :yeah: do this: Go to Bunnings. Get some Baker's fluid (plumbing section), while you're there, get a stick of plumber's solder/lead. Also get a blowtorch if you haven't got one already. Take the tank out just like ^ post, then flush the tank with detergent and water a few times. Flush with clean water, then blow air through it till you can't smell petrol any more. Now cut a small piece of sheet steel to cover the hole and make sure it's clean all over. Clean the outside of the tank- wire brush, sandpaper etc so the steel is really shiny. Heat the metal up with the blowtorch a little bit, and brush some of the baker's fluid on. Then press the lead against the metal and heat gently with the flame. You can use a really big soldering iron but I mean really big! The point is to get the metal just hot enough for the solder to melt and flow onto it. Do this with the patch as well then put the patch over the hole, add a bit more heat and maybe some more solder and you should be done. If you heat the metal too much (turns blue) then clean the metal again and start from scratch as the solder probably won't stick to it. You can drill and rivet the patch in place if it doesn't want to sit there- the solder will cover the rivet as well. If this looks too hard, then get another tank! I've patched a few car and bike tanks and it works well.