need more opinions/ideas

[VL Berlina 5speed]

check the fuel, i am getting fuel to the front.
changed the external pump as i might of had low pressure but no dif
regulator is working as flow comes out the fuel return on the rail too

pulled the first plug out and its dry, not even smelling of petrol or any carbon on it

so injectors are not opening:bang:

unpluged the first injector lead and plugged a na injector in and it aint ticking when cranking

no wiring on the injector loom was touched or cut
only put condue piping on to neat it


suppose i need to look at trying a difrent compter now
tryed my na auto one but no luck at even possible running
prob because the injector cycle is diffrent apparently

 

[loveless]

this might sound silly but have you got the rotor button facing the right way? you could 180 degrees out, sounds silly but its easy to do lol

 

[VL Berlina 5speed]

on the rotartu arm one side of the shaft is squared off so you cant,
its was a good thought though



just been reading through some threads on CT and came across some post that MonstaS4 had posted

these are referring too the relay which was near the battery,
the metal casing relay i think we cut out, cant find it in the dash either (where most where moved too)

tested the injector and i have 12v to both the cables when the car has power running through the car

but then i get lost

if this relay was to be removed would the injectors work?

Forget the LED. Do you have 12v on one of the injector wires? (referencing one meter lead to ground). You'll have 12v on both wires with the engine off.

The 12v feed to the injectors is via the reverse polarity relay. With the relay OFF, you should have 12v to the injectors. If the relay is off but no 12v, then the contacts inside the relay are dirty and you should replace the relay. BEWARE it is a changeover relay (normally closed contact aswell as normally open). If the relay is on, then the diode hidden in the loom near the relay has gone short circuit.

There should be 2 red/black wires, an orange and a black/white. The red/blacks are battery 12v+ via a fusible link. One connects to the coil of the relay, the other to the "common" side of the relay contacts. Sounds like you have 12v on each of these?

The black/white is an earth for the relay coil, BUT.....it is earthed via a diode so that the relay will never come on unless the battery is connected up wrong (hence the name reverse polarity relay). Put the black meter lead on the black/white wire at the relay and the red meter lead on either of the red/black wires. The meter should read 0v. If it reads 12v then the diode is short circuit. Remove the tape from the loom and it will be hidden in there. Cut one of the wires to the diode and i'll bet the car will start.

If the meter read 0v, then check the orange wire for 12v (with the black meter lead on batt -ve). If you have 12v here but not at the injectors, you have a break in the loom somewhere between them. If you don't have 12v, then the relay is shagged. Replace it with a CHANGEOVER relay....NOT a normal relay.

i have just got another starter circuit loom so once i find time and daron is free we will look into it

 

[imnothereanymore]

didnt see no diode sean but im sure at 1130 pm in the dark we wouldnt have hehehe
ill come up over weekend and have a look

 

[VL Berlina 5speed]

If you've removed the relay and haven't rewired the orange wire to battery 12v, then this is your problem. This orange wire also goes to the ecu. I'm guessing that it needs to be unswitched 12v....not ign switched 12v.

In saying this, you have 12v to both terminals on the injector plug which is normal. The ecu switches the injectors to ground.

a reply too my question before
hope its it

 

[VL Berlina 5speed]

well wired in the relay as mentioned before and it was no diffrence
same as we had before

we have pulsing in the injector loom,
fuel presure in the rail
but the #1 plug is bone dry
the little tail stock on the injector to rail is presurised

when connecting a NA injector too the loom while having a pipe full of water and pressured on its tail it squarts water



the injectors were clean and tested before i got them apparently
seems too me that the injectors are the prob.
whats your thoughts??

 

[VL Berlina 5speed]

well i went down to hi tech dyno down here and spoke with John Keen
told him all what ive done and he said quite possible the injectors are clogged shut as they have been sat around for a while

so took the manifold appart and injectors are out now
tommorow dropping them off to be tested, bathed, ultrasonic cleaned and flow tested for $8 each at my price

i smelt down each runner too see if i could even get a waft of fuel but out of the 6 runners only one had a fuel smell
so likly 5 out of 6 were blocked and the one which was fine allowed it to splutter for those few secs


tommorow night i might chuck them back in and the manifold together before i have to go out too see the misses

fingers crossed this is the problem as im running short

 

[VL Berlina 5speed]

well i got the injectors cleaned today and one was blocked
all fixed now and all flow even



now i am currently sat here scraping the old gasket of the top half of the plenem

and i just spotted something out of the corner of my eye
the little vacum port on the throttle body just under the TPS
i did have a vacum rubber cap on this blocking it off but now its not there


waitind for a reply form someone who had this same prob which was a vacum leak on the intake manifold

 

[VL Berlina 5speed]

all back together with them blocked off and no diffrence

took the dissy out and had it all plugged in still
turned it over by hand and the pump ran, injectors pulsed, heard the points arcing in the dissy

so plugged in a new plug too the first lead, cranked over and im getting a orange faint blue sprak
not a strong sprak


replaced the coil pack with a brand new one i found at u pull it.......score
tryed diffrent dissy also
no avail:cry:




well had a mechanic from Auto Pro pop in to test something for me
plugged in a injector pulse reader and spark plug test

when cranking the car the starter motor was drawing too much power too allow the computer to produce a pulse
so plugged in my spare dissy to the cas lead and spun it by had, which it produced a pluse and spark fine

with the vs battery almost dead after many trys earlier and my mums car battery the same i tryed jumper cable and used both batterys
the car ran for 15-20 seconds but really ruffly:dance:

so appears my car batterys are both too dead too run my car.
chucked the vs battery on charge for tonight and the mechanic has his jumper pack on charge so i can grab that in the morning


also with the timming ive got it right set properly, the mecahnic made sure i had it correct but ive got a problem idling

too get it too run i had to advance the dissy fully too max,
so i moved the rotary arm one tooth around too see if it would run better but will only run when fully retarded
its like i need it just between the two teeth on the shaft

im thinking it could be because the lack of power in the battery is why im not able to get to run smooth as there is no inbetween on the dissy as the housing rotation compensaites
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