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Need urgent help with my vl

slw30t

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Vl Berlina manual turbo
hi all,
So this is the run down of he issue I am having with my vl.
The car will start (sometimes) but will barely hold idle. (200rpm or so) if I attempt to rev the car it will just start to splutter and cough.
If I unplug the afm I can get the car to go to the standard 2500rpm, but will not rev freely with the afm plugged in.
I have been struggling with this for months now, previously it would rev to about 3000rpm and just break up / start to miss.
This is a list of the work done to the car.
*new plugs
*new leads
*swapped dizzy
*brand new afm
*changed loom
*chipped ecu
*arp head studs
*decked/cleaned/crack tested head
*permaseal mls head gasket
*block cleaned with sharpening stone and checked with straight edge fuller plus feeler gauges
*stadard spec vl injectors (cleaned and flow tested)
*adjustable fuel pressure reg
*highmount to4e with external gate and screamer
*new fuel pump
*new fuel filter
*tank dropped out and cleaned
*new coil
*new distributor cap
*aac valve removed and cleaned
*new timing belt (set to 53 teeth starting at 0)
*timing set to 15 deg BTDC
*new oil and filter
*confirmed good spark
*confirmed injector pulse.
*rewired fusable links
*new oxygen sensor
As you can see I’ve swapped over a heap of part but to no avail.
When I turn the ecu to diagnostics mode I get a tps code.
But no matter how I adjust the tps nothing seems to change.
If anyone has any ideas in open to anything.
 

Sabbath'

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80 Series// VFII Black Edition
Switch out to a new TPS and put in a standard ECU.
 

slw30t

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Vl Berlina manual turbo
Have tried both of these options.
I was just doing some more research and I’ve noticed that a relay for the efi is behind the battery, I will check this once my workshop manual arrives. I’ll also look at the reverse polarity diode in the neg battery harness.
 
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