new clutch but grinds into reverse

[Lorisk1]

Hey team,
07 ve ssv manual
i just got a clutch put in
mantic stage 2.

now when i go into reverse, its kind of a struggle and it will crunch.
if i go 3rd then reverse. its fine.

it definitely didnt do it before the clutch install.
he said he thinks its the master cylinder failing because he cant adjust the one in the car or something.

the clutch is springy. it works in every gear fine except reverse..
all though the pedal does engage earlier than i would have expected it to..
but i had plenty of fluid for him to flush it hard out
before bleeding ect.


would it be the master cylinder?

he did note when i press clutch, the hose from master to slave jumps/jolts.

 

[rambunctious]

Hey team,
07 ve ssv manual
i just got a clutch put in
mantic stage 2.

now when i go into reverse, its kind of a struggle and it will crunch.
if i go 3rd then reverse. its fine.

it definitely didnt do it before the clutch install.
he said he thinks its the master cylinder failing because he cant adjust the one in the car or something.

the clutch is springy. it works in every gear fine except reverse..
all though the pedal does engage earlier than i would have expected it to..
but i had plenty of fluid for him to flush it hard out
before bleeding ect.


would it be the master cylinder?

he did note when i press clutch, the hose from master to slave jumps/jolts.

I am sure you are aware what you describe is part normal as reverse has no syncro so pushing the lever into 3rd (syncro gear) stops the gears spinning so it then goes into reverse easier.

If however after you push into 3rd and wait say 3-4 seconds and it then grinds into reverse then one or both of the cylinders may be a problem.
Jerkiness in the line no idea.
FWIW I have had a number of manual cars that all did as you describe and of course if the pressure plate is a lot stronger than before that will add to the problem.

 

[Lorisk1]

ah ok, so going from a factory clutch to upgrade clutch will make it harder to go into reverse?
is there anyway around that?
id rather just be able to put it straight into reverse without 3rd first

 

[rambunctious]

ah ok, so going from a factory clutch to upgrade clutch will make it harder to go into reverse?
is there anyway around that?
id rather just be able to put it straight into reverse without 3rd first

ah ok, so going from a factory clutch to upgrade clutch will make it harder to go into reverse?
is there anyway around that?
id rather just be able to put it straight into reverse without 3rd first

More so the question would be how old/soft was the old pressure plate because you have gone from an old pressure plate to a new, what I assume to be, heavier stronger plate.

Is the new plate grabbing as you have a new clutch plate which I must assume will be thicker than the old one and yes, the pedal will be higher than before because of this extra thickness in the clutch plate and as such the clutch will not disengage until closer to the floor than before.

You have to also consider the gears are spinning at say 700 rpm at idle (that's 12 revs per second) and you push in the clutch and those gears need to slow down before you place it into reverse.
This can only be achieved by the gearbox oil slowing the gears down to a stop before you can select reverse.

 

[Lorisk1]

More so the question would be how old/soft was the old pressure plate because you have gone from an old pressure plate to a new, what I assume to be, heavier stronger plate.

Is the new plate grabbing as you have a new clutch plate which I must assume will be thicker than the old one and yes, the pedal will be higher than before because of this extra thickness in the clutch plate and as such the clutch will not disengage until closer to the floor than before.

You have to also consider the gears are spinning at say 700 rpm at idle (that's 12 revs per second) and you push in the clutch and those gears need to slow down before you place it into reverse.
This can only be achieved by the gearbox oil slowing the gears down to a stop before you can select reverse.

Awesome. Any way to get the clutch to engage higher on releade and not so close to the floor?

Yep previous clutch was oem
Nee clutch is heavy duty

 

[J_D 2.0]

I am sure you are aware what you describe is part normal as reverse has no syncro so pushing the lever into 3rd (syncro gear) stops the gears spinning so it then goes into reverse easier.

The TR6060 gearbox used in the VE V8‘s has double synchros on all gears, including reverse.

 

[rambunctious]

The TR6060 gearbox used in the VE V8‘s has double synchros on all gears, including reverse.

Does that then indicate the synchro on reverse is damaged ??.

 

[chrisp]

Does that then indicate the synchro on reverse is damaged ??.

That, or the clutch is ‘dragging’ enough that the syncros can’t hold the gear against the drag in the clutch?

 

[krusing]

I dont have a manual VE,
But, I have had fair few manuals,
And what has been described, is the clutch is still grabbing/dragging/spinning on the input shaft,
Being a HD clutch, it still should disengage,
Was the Slave Cylinder Serviced, or just bled ?, as she'll be right mate ?

It does sound like the fluid to the clutch slave cylinder is still aerated.

 

[07GTS]

not sure how early the grab point is but on my mantic its bout 1/2-3/4 grab, when i first got it it was bout 1/4 grab as all the air wasnt out of it yet but it did get better after driving it and bled itself and came good before i was able to get it back to be checked out, as mentioned above may just be air still in system