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New Focal Ibus 2.1 and PS165 Install Questions - SV6 UTE

steelsabre

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Hey guys,

First up happy new year to everyone! hope it was a VERY messy night for you all!

I got some new gear over Xmas, i did a bit of research and these product seemed to be the perfect fit for what i wanted. I got the gear from Marty at fhrxstudios.com.au i recommend them if you want to buy anything, good service, free shipping and he stayed in contact with me over Xmas via TEXT with updates on the order.

I mainly wanted an update to the system, i don't need award winning sound, just something alot better than stock with some good components. After reading marty's review on the ibus20 sub, i decided to give this ago. Later on if i buy a new car with more room, ill update to full size subs and amps.

focal-ibus21.jpg focal-ps165.jpg focal-ps-tweet.jpg

The Inbuilt amp in the Ibus 2.1 has high level inputs ! Sweet right.. now... Im not sure if the HOLDEN IQ on the rear has the required ISO plugs for the harness to connect to. Does anyone know if it does ? In my hung over state ive managed to take most the trim off, but before i rip out the rest including the IQ unit i thought id ASK the experts and see if i need to or not!

f43ask.jpg
un56s.jpg


I have a really bad feeling that the IQ system is not so smart after all... hahahah Something tells me that this harness is useless ?? Can anyone confirm ?

If that is the case ive been pondering on how to connect the speakers and the amp back to the IQ system, the only other way that seems plausible is by chopping up the base of the wiring harness and soldering on new speaker wire. The amp/sub will be mounted underneath the passenger seat.

zodvcy.jpg


The only problem is trying to figure out which two wires are for what side hahah !!

So before i go chopping, pulling and melting.. i just wanted to get your expert opinions!

Cheers, and happy new year!
 

mannypapa

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Any update on your setup mate? Did you use the input from the rear speakers?
 

steelsabre

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UPDATE:

This is where im up to. I still have a lot to do but i have time constraints with selling a house.

I dynamatted the door, it might be overkill but oh well. I put a defuser tile behind each speaker. Then created speaker mounts using MDF board. I used the original ones as a template. To seal them i used a poly resin i bought at bunnings then sprayed them black. I sealed the mdf using weather foam that comes in a massive pack ( they use it for doors ) then used silicone to seal the otter and inner gaps.

1622syq.jpg


I decided to install the tweeters into the door, behind the mirror. Im not sure if i made the right decision but i will find out soon enough :p

4smiio.jpg


So then i learnt to solder!! I soldered the speaker wire to the speakers, ran the wires through the doors into the cabin. Im waiting on a replacement crossover because my little nephew threw one off my balcony...... haha

One issue i have is figuring out HOW to tap into the speaker wires for the signal! Weather to pull the original speaker wires out of the doors, or cut and splice into the plug that connect to the IQ unit under the steering wheel.

Sealing the service holes... Im still having trouble thinking about what to do here... it i throw dynamatt over the holes the other side will be just left black and tacky ?? I cant see how using mdf would work ?

Anyone have any advice on this ???

Still to do :
Install Amp / sub under seat
Tap into stock head unit. Run speaker wires to the AMP
Connect amp to battery and ground.
Connect all speaker wires to amp

THEN TEST.

I HAVE TO SAY, I KNOW NOW WHY QUALITY INSTALLERS SEEM TO CHARGE SO MUCH... after doing this... IT TAKES TIME AND PRECISION not to damage anything.. so if you are thinking of doing this sort of thing... work out the amount of time, and extras ( tools and materials ) it will cost you and see if its worth it!

In saying that though, it is a nice project if you have the time!

I will update as i go!
 

StoneX

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With the normal service holes you want to make the hole as solid as possible, like a speaker box, so just bare deadener is not very useful as it will flex back and forward. You add the MDF to make it solid and then deaden over the top.

With the service holes that the door trim recesses into I just put deadener loosely over the hole or put a layer of loose gaffa tape and stick the deadener to that. It needs to be slack enough that the door pocket can push back into the door.
 
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