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New LPG ECU - Are these settings about right?

CCCMikey

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I bought a new LPG ECU from a wrecked '06 Holden Captiva - it's the same LPG ECU model as the one I killed.

I can't get the programming from the old LPG ECU, so have to start from scratch.

Below: I guess I change displacement to 3800 (VS V6)

Other than that, I don't know if much needs changing. I could just run the auto calibration and see what happens?

Edit: Found a manual at http://landi.pl/assets/files/OMEGAS/MANUALE_SW_2164C_gb1.pdf

IMG_20190119_112356.jpg

Not sure what this thing is - leave it at 1 I guess.

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No idea...
IMG_20190119_112418.jpg

The physical gauge is just under half, so I guess if I measure it with a multimeter and it shows about 30-45 ohms I'll be right.
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toobig1.PNG
 
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CCCMikey

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After some fiddling, I got it to 'sort of work' but the revs drop and it is unsteady.
Had to change to "Rev Counter" or else it showed double or four times the RPM.
Changed the Injector types to Landi. (Landi 2.0 the default, didn't work.) They're on "Large" which I'm not sure is correct, trying to figure that one out.
I have it set to one lambda prob set to 1V. (Not sure how many I actually have, or where.)
Gas Pressure sensor set to Bosch.

pressure.PNG

Not sure I should fiddle too much - is there a risk I'll end up in a cloud of LPG-based smoke?

Hmm, this screenshot implies that these are medium injectors. I'll try that and see what happens...

Correction, they're all called "MED" - must be a brand name or something. Mine are white, so they are presumably "Large"
rail.PNG


sizes.PNG


MAP sensor currently set to 'none.
 
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EYY

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Pressure sensor is at the end of the rail. When it drops too low it’ll switch back to petrol because it thinks it’s either out of gas or there’s a big leak.

O2 sensor input shouldn’t matter because it’s only there as a tuning tool.

Autocalibrate doesn’t do the job well enough. It’ll get it in the ballpark so that it runs but you won’t get good power or economy until you tune it properly with a wideband and change the fuelling table.

Also, make sure that all injectors are connected to the correct plugs for both lpg and petrol. It’s important that everything’s working in the correct sequence.

Are you sure it doesn’t have a map sensor?

They’re pretty easy to tune. I’ve done it on a few cars without issue - but a wideband is an absolute must to tune for best performance and economy. The bubble tracing feature makes it easy to see what points to change.
 

CCCMikey

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G'day EYY :)

Thanks for replying.

Looking at a similar kit online, it shows that there was usually a MAP sensor included. I don't know where it would physically be though, will go out and have another look shortly.

The car is out of rego because it turned out to be due for a ten year LPG assessment; but with a dead ECU I couldn't use up the LPG for the assessment. If I can get it running well enough to use up the LPG, then I can get the assessment done, then I can get it properly tuned by someone who knows what they're doing. I haven't tried the built in calibration thing yet - reluctant to bring it up to 3,000RPM (quite noisy) if it's not configured right in the software.

kit2.PNG
 

CCCMikey

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Hmm, so maybe it's connected to the original one, didn't come with one; which is why I can't find it.

Is it safe to bring up to 3,000RPM and let it switch to LPG given I'm not sure everything is set correctly? Everything was physically fine before the previous ECU was fried, so it's likely only the configuration that's not quite right.

map.PNG
 

EYY

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As long as it’s getting the right rpm signal and everything’s hooked up properly it’ll be fine to run at 3000rpm. Just keep a steady foot - it will bog down and rev up a few times until it’s got the fuelling in the ballpark.

It basically works out how much lpg is required to sustain that 3000rpm and generates a map based off that.
 

CCCMikey

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OK I'll give that a try *Fetches ear muffs*

Will take a video while I'm at it. With 510,000km I'm always wondering when I'm going to get that final big bang. Will let it warm up a bit first.
 

EYY

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Yes you want it to be at operating temperature otherwise the whole map will be well off the mark. Also I’d change that changeover temp to 60 degrees - they can stall and run like a dog when the reducer/converter is too cold. Makes for more seamless changeover - and set it to sequential changeover if you have the option.

3000rpm is nothing, if it can’t cope with that it just wasn’t meant to be lol
 

CCCMikey

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Well, I tried to do the auto configure for the MAP sensor, but it just sits for ever saying "Turn key on and wait for data to be acquired" - waited several minutes with the ignition on but not running. (First step is to get MAP value for atmospheric pressure I think.)

Gave up on that.

I'm guessing this first picture is the MAP sensor, and the second is the Lambda sensor. Not sure how to tell if it's a 0-1V model, a 0-5V model or a 5-0V Model.

I guess I can try my luck with the Auto Calibration anyway and leave the MAP sensor turned off? Or is it time to give up and take it to a pro?

map2.PNG
lambda.PNG
 
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