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New System, Looking For More Info

ProbablyRaging

Drop Bass, Not Bombs.
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Ok so I've decided to update my weak ass system that I am running at the moment. My main reason for upgrading is, well.. The lack of bass. Currently running a 150-200w RMS sub at the moment and although I can feel and hear the bass in the cabin, once you step out and close the doors you can't really tell I have a sub at all, you just hear audio. I want to be able to hear and feel the bass from meters away.

I listen to alot of drum & bass, hardstyle ect.. with quick bass hits, so Iwant really hard hitting bass, but want to keep the bass hits tight and clear. I have been looking at the Kicker S12L74, with 750w RMS but I have read more bad then good.

750w RMS seems like a good ball park figure for what I am after so if anyone has opinions on subwoofers similar to that of the kicker and that can deal with the quicker beats then I'd like to check them out. I'd like to pay anything under $400 for the sub (preferable boxed in the correct sized box)

Also, abit of information about what type of amplifier I should look for that will power 750w RMS give or take. Something not overly prices, maybe $200 if it is do-able?

Cheers
 

ProbablyRaging

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What are people's input on a 12" Audioque HDC3 or Sundown SA-12?
 
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ProbablyRaging

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I don't know why you want to be feeling it from metres away from the car since you spend most of the time driving it. If your box is pre fab, you could custom build it to get more out of the sub?

Haha I didnt mean to write "feel". True though, I will be in the car 90% of the time, but playing music while camping or at bush doofs ect.. But nah, a custom built box will be done when getting the new sub so yea.
 

Danielzke

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I don't know much about subs and audio but i'm learning. I've learnt that powerful subs will only go as far as the box for them.

Guessing you have a sealed box atm, which is what i had with a single 12", sub was rated at 200 rms. I recently upgraded to duel kicker subs 10" in a ported box, funny thing is each sub is only 150 rms, so 300 rms all up, and f**k it's sooooooooo loud and bassy, like seriously it's just perfect. I'd recommend them for sure ! can be picked up brand new from JBHIFI for $350, but it's so worth it haha. Just get a matching amp and you're all good. I've got a mono amp which was actually made for this sub, there like $250 i think.

But have a shop around, might find something that suits you better haha


P.S the bass from these things can be heard from so far away haha, but so can the boot rattle, oh crap i gotta fix that one asap
 

ProbablyRaging

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I don't know much about subs and audio but i'm learning. I've learnt that powerful subs will only go as far as the box for them.

Guessing you have a sealed box atm, which is what i had with a single 12", sub was rated at 200 rms. I recently upgraded to duel kicker subs 10" in a ported box, funny thing is each sub is only 150 rms, so 300 rms all up, and f**k it's sooooooooo loud and bassy, like seriously it's just perfect. I'd recommend them for sure ! can be picked up brand new from JBHIFI for $350, but it's so worth it haha. Just get a matching amp and you're all good. I've got a mono amp which was actually made for this sub, there like $250 i think.

But have a shop around, might find something that suits you better haha


P.S the bass from these things can be heard from so far away haha, but so can the boot rattle, oh crap i gotta fix that one asap

Yea sounds the goods man. What I plan on doing is buying a more powerful sub and amp, and then building a bigger ported box for it. Probably just abit smaller then the max recommendation for the sub. A 750-1000w RMS sub should give me a **** load of bass right?
 

Kiddo

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If it sounds good in the car......why be so worried about what it sounds outside?
 

Danielzke

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Yeah man, just make sure the box is right and its not cheap gear that's actually rated less then what's on the box E.G don't go by the max rating go by the actual rms
 

ProbablyRaging

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Yeah man, just make sure the box is right and its not cheap gear that's actually rated less then what's on the box E.G don't go by the max rating go by the actual rms

Sweet man. I'm going to post a few pieces of audio gear abit later and see what people think. Quick question but, would I need to upgrade the existing wiring that I have to compensate for better gear or should what I have to power my existing sub and amp be fine?

Cheers
 
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