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Discussion in 'VF Holden Commodore (2013 - 2017)' started by ls3 304, Oct 24, 2016.
Or there is also a CAPA kit, I guess...? Vortech?
keep in mind the lsa hsvs have the 9 inch diff also
my vote would be for a decent cam with the heads ported
I watched that video this afternoon too, before seeing this post. No where does Walkinshaw, Harrop, nor WSM mention fuel, trans or diff upgrades being needed.
I appreciate everyone has advice, but also they have their bit in the game too. I really like empirical data. Not just instinct or thoughts.
I’m struggling to find evidence of systemic bolt-on failures, beyond isolated, numerically small cases.
Point is...people are pushing these products. They must have a ‘safe’ methodology of implementation. None would stay in business long if all the drama quoted, existed.
That said, I’m happy to go with several outcomes; cam and heads, bolt-on blower or replacement GTS LSA. The last two options are pretty close in price.
there is nothing wrong with running low boost in a ls3 but it all comes down to tune.
if fuel pressure doesn't drop then the fuel pump is big enough to feed it.
yes it is nice to have extra safety but where do you draw the line and if you are worried about fuel pump upgrade at same time.
the lsa doesn't have forged internals and has a small 1900 blower and with a 2300 blower you will make more power at lower boost levels if you brake things like the diff engine mounts etc you need to look at your driving style. mechanical sympathy goes a long way.
as the saying goes got to pay to play
it all depends on what you want to do with the car.
if you want a cruiser do cam and heads, if you want a drag car or to be able to say my car has this then supercharge it, track day car stay away from boosted.
if you want huge power you need to do a full build anyway.
I previously had a vf gts with over 700rwhp built and tuned by me heat is the biggest killer with boosted motors
I now have a vf 2 ssv redline ute and i am going w407 in this car as I couldn't be bothered and don't have the time to do mechanical modifications.
also being the last of what it is I think that walkinshaw enhanced will be better than no name mods holding value wise.
yes I know I can get same results or better for half the price doing it myself.
LSA pistons and rings are specifically made for supercharged application versus LS. Same with connecting rods. LSA also runs a forged crank.
You will struggle getting more than 600 bhp at the crank 6.2 on 98 with the stock fuel setup at 0.6 BSFC, else very interested to see how you improved thermal efficiency to dramatically lower the consumption. Supercharging has nothing to do with efficiency. The notion that a 2300 is safer because delivers more air without boost, doesn’t address any of the issues mentioned above at all. At the core more air needs more fuel and up top where it counts a 2300 uses more and an SS FPCM can’t deliver. Is dodgy engineering not to cater for fuel.
Cruising around with massive blower at low rpm and low psi and pissy fuel system tuned not to bump limit is a waste of resources including road space.
No need to complicate the whole thing with positive displacement 0-9psi for cylinder fill when you can tune intake pressure back of valve around 6psi NA at torque peak, right?
Shiit breaks because of torque, you get that when you actually deliver 50% more than rating, not because the dyno operator is a hoon.
You can pay through the nose and play like a rich fool quite easily, sure. But nah, this is not HSV land, you don’t need to show off to mod an SS into a serious player.
I appreciate the advice, but what is the answer? I’m not going forged internals...for that money I’d just trade up to a second-hand GTS.
For what I’m running now, what is a wise way to spend up to $8k?
Wires crossed sorry, I was responding to the post above. Just saying there is an assumption that LSA is GenIV V8 plus a TVS1900, hence 2300 turning slow on an LS3 would be a better combo. Wrong on both counts.
A. LSA with a pulley swap, proven cam and fuel system is the simplest move to deliver what I think you would dig. Last I looked LSA was near enough about same price as trading your LS3, cam swap with LSA on stand is a doddle, flash in boost referenced FPCM and invest in the best injectors.
Being at altitude you could keep LS3, add a flex fuel tune, reflash the FPCM then go Procharger (research i-1 it MAY fit) without undue risk and thermal compensation paraphernalia.
I like your idea too. But, I’m just going to spend $8k I’ve decided not to waste anymore trying to catch LSA donks.
I have two mortgages and three cars. I’m too greedy.
The internals considered, there must be a cam/heads/lifters/springs/pushrods package that will get me to 450hprw.
Save me the fuel system/stall converter/trans cooler...for the moment.
I’ve also just dropped $3k on brakes and $3k on stereo upgrades.
I think I’ve drawn the line...for now.
I’m happy to take comments, thoughts within the $8k budget. Fire away.
I’m not trying to offend you, I ‘liked’ the assistance, not aiming at saying content is superior.
I’d really appreciate all viewpoints. Forewarned is forewarned. I’d like to have a lot of knowledge going into discussions with mechanics.
Please feel free to provide your ‘best case’ for $8k. If you’d like to...if you’d rather not, no hard feelings.
I'd speak to a good performance shop and let them know what your goals are and your budget.
8 g will get you you 450 rwhp
No need for head work.
A decent exhaust headers and intake with a mild cam and valve springs will do the trick
Hope this helps bud but do your research on reputable workshops
I’m sorry if you were offended. As I said, I appreciate anyone’s opinion.
In 25-years military service, I’ve never had to deal with people being butt hurt from a distance, we deal face-to-face, so there’s always a positive outcome.
I’m not playing mummy v daddy here, but if you cry every time someone chimes in with a differing opinion, your days will be a mercurial shite fest...I’m just trying to get along, learn a few things and be present in these conversations.
If you must cut me off your Christmas card list, c’est la vie.
Cheers for your time, Monstar.
I’m just down the road from you, want to meet and chat? PM me, because I think we have our wires crossed. Just trying to help, have outlined two options but yeah there’s more creative ways to giddyup for $8k.
See my build thread, reckon e85 and VVT might be worth exploring, like I have.
Hahaha your funny
Yeah, that would be cool. I have a place in Scarborough and also Russell Island, I get up there (and down there) to check them out on occasion. I'd be happy to come chew the cud with you.
Btw never said anything bad about oz track they have done some good work.
I was implying more to your setup you always try to push
Is it even running rite yet.
And I don't tune cars for money only for friends so take that as you wish
I'm not hiding anything
The more opinions the better in my books and the one who shouts the loudest isn't necessarily the winner.
Well then how about an opinion, in my books the one who shouts noble virtues from the sideline with no horse in the game is a mere heckler not a winner.
BTW any poster serially correcting facts in my posts with wild opinion will always cop a loud shout from me. Then away from keyboard I watch as the usual idiots reply from the sideline that I don’t let opinions be heard. Parroting genuine concerns that my advice - swapping in an LSA with pulley or centri supercharging and dosing with alcohol - is same old typical rote advice I ever give, and with me its my daft bizarre opinion or the Highway.
It’s a reliable organic editorial cycle, thanks for your wonderful if rare and occasional input.
I'm going to give you the benefit of the doubt but it sure seems like you joined this forum to troll another member.
I'm going to politely suggest that you drop the dribble and if you have issue with another member you either keep it to PM's or suck it up.
Consider this your first friendly reminder of the forum rules you agreed to when you signed up.
My opinion, I agree with Antssute!
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