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Newby here: Just got a VS wagon...... mmm

Paul13pp

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My old XF is dying and so I've purchased a VS wagon 96 basic... or is it executive..lol

It will need a lot of restoration to ensure it is somewhat reliable.
The vehicle has been sitting for several years but the body and paint are in pretty good nick as is most of the interior.
The bad points are repairs needed, including
a whole new exhaust system
Water pump replacement due to noisy bearing
Tensioner idler wheel and bearing
The other idler wheel too
Serpentine belt
Power steering rack is leaking many drips per 5 minute interval after running the engine.
I am going to try a small amount brake fluid added to the power steer fluid first to see if that helps the seals and prolongs its life some.
The engine has many misses and seems to not run on all six for 5 minutes or so but I have not added any fresh fuel yet to see if it is that old and causing it to run like crap.
The engine warning light is on and I need to read the codes to remedy that too.
Maybe there are some sensors that need replacing or cleaning.

It needs a brake light switch located near the brake pedal, simple fix.

One or more engine mounts are broken because when you select "R" the engine lifts and drops
No oil leaks evident which is good, other than the power steering rack.

The radiator is quite new and the auto transmission seems good.
The radiator fan has a wire, at present not connected to the battery to make it go full time.
Presumably there may have been an issue with overheating previously or the fan not running when it should. Leads back to my sensor theory or thoughts..

Seems it is going to take me a while to get used to these more modern cars with all the electronic control boxes and sensors and the like when compared to the old XF that just kept going till it died (84 model)

I look forward to any tips and hints to look out for on my journey to restore this Commodore.

Hi to all :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

someguy360

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Seems it is going to take me a while to get used to these more modern cars with all the electronic control boxes and sensors and the like when compared to the old XF that just kept going till it died (84 model)


Hi to all :thumbsup::thumbsup:
I had the same problem

Going from a carbied subaru to the VS commie

Too much electronic gizmos
 

Paul13pp

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Today I had a look at the fault codes.
Upon shorting pins 5 and 6, the first thing I noticed is that the radiator fan did not start. Not sure if it should or not, though I read here that it should.

Sequence of codes each repeated 3 times.
12 . Normal
32 . Not listed
67 . TCC On Off Solenoid Control Circuit auto tran code (whatever that means)
76 . Not listed
82 .1-2 Shift Solenoid "A" fault auto tran code
82
then back to 12 and it repeats.

I disconnected the battery for several minutes and now it is only showing the normal 12 code.
I can't drive the vehicle yet as the serpentine belt is broken but it will be intereting to see if those other codes return when I do.
 

Paul13pp

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New belt and the engine light is still on.
Something to work on.
I managed to work out that all the spark ignition leads were connected the wrong way.
Connecting them correctly has made a vast difference to the performance :clap:

There are still some intermittent misses which may be plugs or a coil pack.
Tested all the leads and they appear good between 1000 ohms and 4800 ohms for the longest one.
 

hako

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I'd recommend you buy yourself a Gregorys workshop manual - either new ~$40 or secondhand or borrow from the library. From the sound of it you've bought a car with a few probs... Don't worry too much about the electronics on the VS, XF Falcons had almost as many fitted. I'd be worried about the misses - first thing I'd do is pull the plugs and note their condition - they will tell you if a head gasket is gone or maybe the inlet manifold gasket (common).
The transmission codes will not appear again till the vehicle is driven....how it the trans fluid colour?
Is the coolant green?
Is the oil fresh or black as spades?
Good Luck.
 

Kioes

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also replace all spark plugs, get rid of that old crappy fuel and replace your fluids (radiator, oil etc) and see the difference
 

Z2TT

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Oil+Filter change
Fuel Filter change
Trans Fluid + Filter change
Coolant Change + Radiator clean or New rad.
Air filter change if needed.
Throttle Body + ISCV Clean.

New Spark Plugs, Leads and Coils/DFI -- For many including me this has made a huge difference in power, drivability and economy.
 

Paul13pp

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Thanks for the tips!
I shall work through it all as $$$ allows.
The engine oil looks quite clean and not black at all, though the filter looks to have been there for way too long. I will change both.
Is the fuel filter that metal cylinder under the car near the tank? If so, does a replacement have to be the same or can I use a cheaper plastic alternate maybe mounted under the bonnet or just where that metal one is?

The transmission fluid is red, but not as bright as I'd like to see it, so a service kit and new Dextron 3 is the go I believe.
While I have the auto sump cover and filter removed, I will try to locate the solenoid and or wiring that is bringing up code 82.
There is no coolant in the water, but the water is very clear and clean. The radiator has been replaced.
Will get some coolant.
When I drove it for 20 minutes today to go get new fuel and pump the tyres up, the fan started, so it does work which is good.
The temp gauge was over half and more towards three qtrs when the fan started. It ran for about a minute then stopped. The temp gauge was then a bit under half.

The air filter is black and stuffed! replacement required

Throttle body.... is that under the cover? If so I will get to that in the morning.

Today I pulled the big black air intake hose off near the filter box to clean things up.
The airflow meter/sender looks all good visual condition wise.
Inside the aluminum pipe doova, is a filter mesh which I sprayed and cleaned with a CRC evap cleaner.
Also inside that pipe is what appears ... a very delicate sensor array of fine wires or whatever.
There is 3 tiny sensors of some sort connecting across the array. Left that lot well alone, just sprayed it all.

Have had a few of the plugs out. One was finger tight..... They need changing. They were black as and wet with fuel. This was when it was running with all the leads around the wrong way though.
Shall get a new set.
The coils look like new and are very clean. Their are numbers on them which indicates they are original or replacement originals?
Can't say the same for the looks of the DFI module. It is white with corrosion. Can they be dismantled to get at the pcb/electronics at all?
 

hako

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Only replace the fuel filter with the correct steel cased one - a plastic one will blow as it has to handle pressures of about 40PSI and should never be used. I'd wait a bit longer re the code 82 as it could just be the connector. The DFI would be very suspect. Sounds like you are getting things done.
Good Luck.
 
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