No oil pressure 6.0L V8

Bit retarded to d/c the calipers when you could have undone 2 bolts and hung them off the car and save rebleeding and brake fluid.

 

Yeah, makes ya wonder....

 

Not saying that your machanic went the wrong way ..... but WOW!!!! all that for just an oil pump to be replaced on a VE, WTF??????

I've been unfortunate to have 2 oil pumps fail on me(The original & the new one three weeks later... grrrrrrr) and the switch, but it was on a LS1 and both times all that had to be done is the same as the CAM install.

Front spoiler/Radiator/AirCon/Water pump/Pulleys/Harmonic balancer/Front cover plate off, oil pump out--> new one in and reverse the process.. 1 day. No power steering/front cross member/engine/calipers/ABS etc. etc. etc off..... God knows what could be introduced and/or could fail now all that was removed, I wounld not have been happy to see that done to my car.

Sorry... Just my 0.0000000000000001c

 

G'day Vstred,

I have to admit you and your machanic went about it the correct way to replace oil pump. I have a VE 08 SSV and only done 75000 and lost oil pressure. I didn't believe it and yes firstly did park up and rolled back home.

After that I replaced oil sensor, still no pressure. I put a manual gauge on it and no pressure.

(IF ANYONE WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHERE THE OIL PRESSURE SENSOR IS BEHIND THE BLOCK UP THE TOP). You cannot see it but you can feel it on the rear right hand side.

Removed front bumper with plastics, radiator (left condensior in engine bay takes a bit of playing around with), removed all pullies, belts, bottom left tensioner and removed timing chain cover. (to remove harmonic balancer pully you have to pay to get the proper harmonic pully remover or modify a 20y old one. The harmonic balancer would be close to pressed on in factory with no bolt holes to use .

After removing oil pump and closely inspecting the relief valve it was stuck open. There was genuine wear where it has been getting caught and finally stuck. Have a photo of relief valve but unable to post.

Got an oil pump from sprints as I didn't trust another genuine one. When fitting you will find its near on imposible to get bottom bolt in oil pump on suction pipe. There is post online with a chevy engine oil pump failing (same pump) Sudden Loss Of Oil Pressure - 2007 Chevy Silverado Vortec 6.0L - YouTube

All i can suggest to people who come across this issue is find a way to use top bolt or you will have to remove sump.

After installing pump I found twice as what I thought was normal oil pressure. I hope not to many others will come across this issue but it seems like a normal issue with the genuine L98 oil pump.

Thanks again Vstred for posting your issue as it helped me solve my issue in a couple of days. I wouldn't go pulling off sump and go
Darcon666 way if you don't have time to muck around and haven't done any major bottom end damage to your engine.

 

Hi all...
I know this is an old thread but i wanted to throw my 2cents in.
My oil pump recently stopped working on my 2008 SSV and i knew straight away that the problem was caused by the safety relief valve seizing up as per the video link in post #26 Sudden Loss Of Oil Pressure - 2007 Chevy Silverado Vortec 6.0L - YouTube .
Anyway, the video was useless to me (and possibly many others), because the flange which holds the tube in place is fixed/welded to the tube and cannot be spun around as per the video. The sump HAS to come out.
So after some investigating, it turns out you don't need to drop/remove the entire front underbody.. As per post #28 in this thread Busted ve sump - Page 2 its actually very easy to remove the sump... undo the 2 engine mount bolts from underneath and raise the engine barely an inch will give you plenty of clearance to get the sump out. I did it and it worked a treat.
The hardest part of the entire job was to remove/re-install the harmonic balancer..

Obviously not... He dismantled half the car and added unnecessary costs..

Hope this helps others in the future...

Cheers

 

Sorry VSTrev, but we're gonna have to agree to disagreee.

I'm not a mechanic by trade, but before i found the info i linked in my previous post it already became apparent to me that your mechanic went about it the wrong way.. simply by sticking my head under the car i was convinced that the sump can come out without ripping the car to shreds. It was when i found the link that my suspicions were confirmed...

Out of curiosity, what did he charge you ?

btw, awesome prayer My 9yr old who's a mad Holden fan loved it !!

cheers

 

Had a similar problem with my 6L Calais. there are two oil pressure sensors on the gen4. It took my dealer two goes to get the correct one, the first is at the rear of the engine, they replaced it, same problem, then they looked further and found the other. replaced it, no further problems. In my case, the check oil warning would come on if i accelerated hard and at other times i could be just idling along. I found that by hitting the trip computer button i could take the display back to speed.John

 

2nd oil pressure sensor? Where is it located and what is its purpose?

If you have the check engine oil light flash on your dash I strongly recommend pulling up as quick as possible.
Driving it any further could cost you a spun bearing/ big $$$.

It could just be a sensor but better safe then sorry.

 

This is a bit of a worry. I wouldn't like that relief valve to stick open, even momentarily at 6,000rpm! I wonder if this has been corrected in later models?

It might be worth installing an oil pressure gauge like in the Clubby?

BTW nice SS VSTrev.