no start

[brett bro]

i have a vs ute it will start in the morning run very well when i turn it off it will not start again if i wait for a few hours it will start again i have changed the c a s plugs leads coil packs i get no readings when i plug in the code reader can you help

 

[losh1971]

Could be the DFI. Need paperclip to scan for codes, counting the flashes, unless you have ALDL code reader. DFI won't necessarily throw a code though same with CAS.

 

[Vin999]

i have a vs ute it will start in the morning run very well when i turn it off it will not start again if i wait for a few hours it will start again i have changed the c a s plugs leads coil packs i get no readings when i plug in the code reader can you help

could be anything really, even a simple earth or frailed wiring on any senser or a partially blocked fuel filter.
Changing things and hoping it works can be expensive.
Much better to do simple tests on individual items like sensors which are probably playing up.
Best thing to do is run the basic no cost tests on items especially electrical until you find something not quite right according to info for tests.

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Did you use a genuine CAS? Aftermarket have been known to be faulty out of the box.

 

[Phil_Hill]

Did you solve your start issue?
i have 12/95 VS 5.0.
Doing the same thing.
Sometime cuts out when running. Can tow-start. Othertime just leave it a few hours and will start when cold.

Very inconsistent and i've had it at hte shop who couldnt fault it.

 

[gtrboyy]

Assume it cranks over just doesn't fire up.

Check for spark...if yes proceed to next line.

Tank fuel tank cover off.....belt tank.

If starts f/pump change is in next step but fault code check should always be done first as it's easy & quick.

 

[NORTI]

Did you solve your start issue?
i have 12/95 VS 5.0.
Doing the same thing.
Sometime cuts out when running. Can tow-start. Othertime just leave it a few hours and will start when cold.

Very inconsistent and i've had it at hte shop who couldnt fault it.

warm start issue, check coolant temp sensor & replace if needed. sometimes throws a code, sometimes doesnt.

 

[BlackVXGTS]

Sounds like a problem with the Hall Effect Sensor that is located in the distributor. You can replace the sensor, but it's probably better (given the age of the car) to replace the complete distributor. It's a bugger of a job given the lack of clearance between the rear of the engine and the firewall but can be done yourself. Good luck!

 

[The_Captain_1971]

bitch of a job - done it once, wouldn't do it again

pay someone ( that has done it before and KNOWs what they are doing)

pull up a chair, crack a beer and enjoy their work

 

[Phil_Hill]

Sounds like a problem with the Hall Effect Sensor that is located in the distributor. You can replace the sensor, but it's probably better (given the age of the car) to replace the complete distributor. It's a bugger of a job given the lack of clearance between the rear of the engine and the firewall but can be done yourself. Good luck!

THanks for the info.

I've been trouble shooting from a snap-on test guide.
i've tested the ingnition module plug and all passed.

I'm thinking the coil could be cooked.
Its an after-market Bosch MEC718
I'm trying to find the spec on it.
I'm reading:
primary resistance 0.5 ohms (well below "normal")
secondary resistance 8.05 ohms (above "normal")
*note normal is the guide for the standard holden one i gather....