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noise after installing 69mm throttle body??

hoofelmuma

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i after switching the car off, it makes a hissing noise for about 2 seconds, would this be the restrictor put in one of the tubes or could this be some thing bad?
 

VR_Acclaim

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define hissing like an idution noise hiss if so its just letting the excess air out
 

IBLOWN

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The motor is under vacuum at idle from the T/B to the heads. When you turn the motor off the vacuum equalizes back to atmospheric pressure. Its just the sound of the vacuum equalizing back through the T/B.
 

hoofelmuma

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cheers man, thats a relief
 

hoofelmuma

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also i was wondering if somthing is rong. ive noticed it changes gear at 2000rpm, were before the mod it would change at 2500-2700. i have to really put my foot down 4 it get past 2000. its almost like it gets stuck there. also has trouble starting on a clod start, neva had that problem b4. its an ecotech 3.8l auto with a 12mm plenum spacer, 2 hole mod k&n air filter and at the same time i did the throttle body i changed spark plug leads to 8mm
 

MACE

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also i was wondering if somthing is rong. ive noticed it changes gear at 2000rpm, were before the mod it would change at 2500-2700. i have to really put my foot down 4 it get past 2000. its almost like it gets stuck there. also has trouble starting on a clod start, neva had that problem b4. its an ecotech 3.8l auto with a 12mm plenum spacer, 2 hole mod k&n air filter and at the same time i did the throttle body i changed spark plug leads to 8mm

hoofelmuma,

If you've installed our TB exactly to these fitting instructions http://www.maceengineering.com.au/W...218/E0C0/THROTTLEBODY_ECOTEC_INSTALLATION.pdf then there is definitely a problem with the TB if you're experiencing cold start issues etc. Please keep us posted and we'll take it from there.

Cheers
Steve
 

hoofelmuma

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hey

yeah i followed those instructions. yesterday i repeted disconecting the batt, rev it up and conect again. so far i have noticed it starts up all good during on a cold start but when i was on my way to work i found i had to push the brake harder to stop at the lights. when ideling it revs up to 1500-2000 rpm in drive and in netural it revs to 2500. when i switch the car of and on again the ideling revs go back to normal 650- 750 rpm. was wondering if a tune or memcal would fix my problems or should i take out the 69mm tb and replace it with stock then wait till i get more done to the car b4 puting it back in?
 

hoofelmuma

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also dont no if this has any thing to do with my problem but when taking off stock tb we broke the cruse control clip so 4 now just got it cable tyed off out of the way lol. its next on the list when i get payed
 

MACE

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hey

yeah i followed those instructions. yesterday i repeted disconecting the batt, rev it up and conect again. so far i have noticed it starts up all good during on a cold start but when i was on my way to work i found i had to push the brake harder to stop at the lights. when ideling it revs up to 1500-2000 rpm in drive and in netural it revs to 2500. when i switch the car of and on again the ideling revs go back to normal 650- 750 rpm. was wondering if a tune or memcal would fix my problems or should i take out the 69mm tb and replace it with stock then wait till i get more done to the car b4 puting it back in?

Is the check engine light coming on by any chance? To me the symptoms you're experiencing are a faulty TPS, vacuum leak (is the O ring in the IAC valve?) or a faulty TB. If you can verify that the TPS is good and that there are no vacuum leaks (no hoses disconnected o ring on the IAC valve) send the TB back up and we'll get you out another one ASAP :)

Cheers
Steve
 

hoofelmuma

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hey

i replaced the tps and iac with stock and so far so good. the only thing i dont like is that it changes gear earlyer is there a way to change it or is that just wot happens
 
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