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Oil Catch Can + Air Separator

Discussion in 'VF Holden Commodore (2013 - 2017)' started by Danthuyer, Oct 24, 2014.

  1. Danthuyer

    Danthuyer Member

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    Hi all,

    Going to be setting up the dirty side oil catch system this weekend. I have bought a generic no baffled can from ebay with a drain plug and I will make up a baffle and stuff it with steel wool.

    The question I have is around a cleanside system ?
    Clean-Air Oil Separator - Elite Engineering
    Speed Inc - RX RX 1LE Style Clean-Side Oil Separator System
    TR Air Oil Separator for Subaru

    So my question around these items are:

    Are these used in conjunction with the catch can ?
    Do they plum into the same collection camber/can ?
    If there is not one available for the FLX has anyone done a DIY ?

    Cheers
    Dan
     
  2. Danthuyer

    Danthuyer Member

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  3. PIR4TE

    PIR4TE Banned

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    Looks neat, but why would you go to that much trouble? What's the benefit?
     
  4. hakhawk

    hakhawk smooth moderator Staff Member

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    you know all that oil blowby that gets vented into your intake because EPA? yeh, its cleaner for the environment, but not good for your engine. an oil-air separator/catch can(properly baffled) "separates" the oil from the air, so you end up with mostly just air going back into the intake, and oil collecting or draining into sump, so way less actual oil in the intake, which means better everything.
     
  5. PIR4TE

    PIR4TE Banned

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    Ok thanks. Still I think it's a lot of work unless there is actually a definable problem, apart for the theory that oil and air or oil and water and air reduces the octane. The amount is like what... a thimble cup full drizzled in over 15000km?!
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2014
  6. Smashfist

    Smashfist Active Member

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    The problem is that the oil coats all of your intake bits. Throttle body, intake manifold, valves, etc depending on drive style and service interval can get carbon build up on them. Carbon on valves is not a good thing at all and even in the throttle body can lower throttle response.

    I'll be catch canning the ute after it gets its first oil change (probably at 7-8,000km). I don't want anything to interfere with the oiling system while it runs in.
     
  7. EYY

    EYY Well-Known Member

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    It's good in a way though, it'll make your valves, seats and guides last longer ;)
     
  8. arronm

    arronm Active Member

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  9. PIR4TE

    PIR4TE Banned

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    Thanks, I can see the benefit on some cars, for sure. Not many, not mine.
     
  10. Smashfist

    Smashfist Active Member

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    Benefit really scales with how hard you drive it. If you're up it a lot or racing and see a bit of high RPM usage, then it's more beneficial than pottering around town. You get more through the PCV the faster it spins.
     
  11. hakhawk

    hakhawk smooth moderator Staff Member

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    checked how oily your intake manifold is lately?
     
  12. arronm

    arronm Active Member

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    Hadnt thought of putting them on the VF. Would be a must on a supercharged or turbo engine though. I have one on the PCV circuit and one on the engine breather.

    Just checked the 6.0L. Looks like there are breathers on each bank. And there must be a PCV circiut somewhere to extract the fume at idle. Its this circuit that fills the intake manifold on a ford 6.

    Does anyone know what the issues are with the 6.0L

    Here is the above oil/air separator on my F6. Fume goes in at the bottom, tries to get through filter material, clean air out the top and the excess oil drips to the bottom of the can.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2014
  13. PIR4TE

    PIR4TE Banned

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    Well actually that's the point of my question, out of sight out of mind and all that. Last time I had the manifold off at 105,000km it was black and oily but clean as a whistle! Might be the emulsion of water and alcohol in the evaporate that carries away the carbon but seriously there is nothing worth fixing in there:

    [​IMG]

    You are never going to stop carbon build-up without the coffee creme-like Brylcreem that whisks gunk deposits away as a cleaning spray via the PCV, when running e85. It's mainly water in alcohol emulsion, a tad engine oil for lubrication.
    Sure forced induction doesn't operate as per conventional EGR, overlap, reversion etc., so doesn't really apply. However if typical naturally aspirated manifold was dry then there would be a regular hard carbon build-up problem if run always dry. Just means more maintenance overall - for what - a clean looking inside of manifold, goodo.
    But like I said it doesn't make sense on my car or a late model commy running flex fuel. If I was running 98 or forced induction then sure, why not, if I had the time. More maintenance in exchange for peace of mind I suppose.

    EDIT: I don't think many people realise that 15ml average over 15,000km is not going to do anything to your octane or foul up your plugs!
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2014
  14. VS_Pete

    VS_Pete Donating Member

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  15. Danthuyer

    Danthuyer Member

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    sme again - I'm more interested in the clean side of things rather than the dirty side. the dirty side is easy with a catch can setup and i completed building mine today i just have to plum it in.

    has anyone bought the elite engineering or RX clean side unit ? or had an attempt at making their own ?
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2014

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