Oil Priming a ls1 after build

[matqld]

Hey guys, slap your 2 bob here on oil priming ls1's if ya dont mind...
I know holden uses a sealed pressurised unit to inject oil into the galleries via the main oil access bung on side of block, but i dont have one of coarse engine assembly lube was used during assembly, but the thought of shining up some new bearings before there time doesn sit real well with me..
I am thinking of maybe tryin to get as much oil down through the oil pressure censor hole prior to start, let air out shroder valve, fill oil filter with oil-n sump, then fire her up, im sure within 1-2 turns she will fire-up, then hopefully oil pressure is good (new ls2 oil pump with new o ring for pickup) So for the sake of an inocent ls1's life...... any suggestions?????????????

Im not to confident about removing fuel relay and disconnecting coil packs as normal winding over speed dont really get the oil pump-pumping and will just squish out the assembly lube prior to starting, where-as firing it up will bring oil pressure up withing seconds replacing engine assembly lube with oil.. well thats what im thinking anyways....
Its the new bearings im worried about not the lifters/rockers cam ect, they will be all good..

thanks in advance ppl's........

 

[klampy]

i just recently put a sump back on my motor and turned it over by hand a couple turns and it was already pushing oil out the pump. i had previously had the pump out and filled it full of assembly lube to create the suction in there. and it certainly works.

IMO i wouldnt fire it up until you know the engine is pumped.

 

[drift-it]

crank the engine with fuel pump fuse disconnected or fuel pump disconnected.. starter will crank it enough to get the oil flowing...

 

[matqld]

i just recently put a sump back on my motor and turned it over by hand a couple turns and it was already pushing oil out the pump. i had previously had the pump out and filled it full of assembly lube to create the suction in there. and it certainly works.

IMO i wouldnt fire it up until you know the engine is pumped.

First of all, Where do you think your oil goes during the night while your car is parked in your garage? i mean where is your oil in the engine every morning when you go to start it? i would imagine its all in your sump! and thats why there is a bit of initial lifter/rocker noise to start off with while the oil builds up pressure and fills the oil passages and galleries till the lifters and rods pump up to the heads, correct me if im wrong there please.

So that bein said and the case "wouldnt" my assembly lube coated engine internals and pre-oil primed oil galleries and passages upon initial start up more then likely provide more lubrication and protection to my bearings/engine until it reaches oil pressure THEN your oil pump would provide for your engine until it reached oil pressure every morning you go to start it? LOL i would think so.
Secondly, I did say i would be putting oil into the oil galleries via the oil pressure sensor hole which would fill all galleries from the main bearings up to the cam bearings right through to the cam retainer and rear block cover and the engine assembly lube will retain that oil for a bit i would imagine, its just the rod bearings will be last to recieve oil once under pressure.
Secondly i always will hand turn a motor minamum rotations once ready to go in the car to ensure everything is ok (reasurance check) but minimal to maintain engine assembly lube.

How do you know you had gotten the oil pump to pump oil by hand?
was your timing cover off? aswell as your balancer?
Had you hand turned it and had got enough oil pressure to fill all passages and galleries and pump oil through and out the rods?
Then put 8 spark plugs back in leads on and fired it up with all oil still remaining in all passages and galleries?
Did you have a oil pressure gauge installed?
And by turning it by hand you could see an oil presure reading on it LOL
It takes a fair bit of hand turning to fill the big oil passage all the way to the back of the block and up then back through the block x 2 and the galleries down to the crank and cam.
I have been told its not a good thing to hand turn the engine much as the oil pump will not pump enough oil at that speed to fill the galleries and passages required
and the scoring/scuffing done to the bearings evin at a slow speed can be very detrimental to there life span.
This is why i avoid doing that.

How much assembly lube did you put in the oil pump? just enough to completly line all internal surfaces/gears? and how did you do that? - through the pick-up entry on the pump? or whilst it was off the motor and just get the lube into the gears through where it goes on crank? then work it through by turning the oil pump gears by hand?
The pump - i have been told to much assembly lube in the oil pump can restrict oil flow on initial start up if there is excessive amounts in or around the pick-up port on the pump.
Then it is suggested that with such a large amount of assembly lube poluting your oil and filter thet your oil and filter be replaced almost immediatly after the engine has been run the first time and rings have settled into the bore.
Otherwise this excess assembly lube can clog/block some types of oil filters especially the high milage ones..and starts almost immedialty and restrict its flow, which will reduce your oil presuure
Hope you did not do this,, (not good for a new engine) or any engine..

What i normally do is work assembly lube through the gears on the oil pump during assembly only just enough though to cover the surface of the sides and gears, everything else is already covered in assembly lube-cam, lifters,bearings ect
Fill oil filter and fit, fill sump with oil (about 4-5ltr)
Remove the PCM fuse and the Ignition fuse.
No spark plugs fitted.
Crank engine normally takes 5-10sec for light to go out on dash,
put plugs in, fuses in, bleed shroder valve of air.
Then fire her over...
BUT this time i will also do this aswell before cranking motor,
Remove oil pressure sensor and using length of 3/4" clear rubber hose fitted to the snout of a cut 1ltr bottle allow as much oil to gravity feed in (takes time), then hopefully the assembly lube prevent the oil from running straight dowm to the sump untill cranking time.
oh and refit the oil pressure sensor.

Then i will give it a oil and filter change before 1000k's
I guess i kinda have my mind made up on what im goin to do this time now anyway..
My original thread was a bit rough i was in a rush and i hadnt put much thought into how i had written it Sorry.

Thanks very much for your input though, hope your motor serves you well..

 

[drift-it]

holey sh#t lol that ^^ would've taken a while to write! i remembered this morning that i've heard of guys buying old fire extinguishers put a shroder valve attachment (im guessing theres one for oil as you've mentioned it and so did they i personally wouldnt have a clue lol) on the hose and tapping in a air fitting into the bottle... fill the bottle with oil and attach to the shroder valve on the engine then pressurise and pull the trigger...basically like holden does???

 

[klampy]

holy crap. settle buddy. i know it had oill flowing as i have a remot oil filter on and at the time my engine was on a stand, without the filter on. i put oil in the sump to stop it rusting as i hd just welded the fitting on, so when i was turning it by hand, it was sucking up the oil and pumped it out my remote filter mount.

oh, and a friend of mine, who happens to own a HMgem workhop, says to get the motor winding over with no sparkplugs in it to brign oil pressure up and then fire it up. or the extra load on almost dry bearings, can cause unneeded issues.

sorry for trying to help. geez...

 

[matqld]

holy crap. settle buddy. i know it had oill flowing as i have a remot oil filter on and at the time my engine was on a stand, without the filter on. i put oil in the sump to stop it rusting as i hd just welded the fitting on, so when i was turning it by hand, it was sucking up the oil and pumped it out my remote filter mount.

oh, and a friend of mine, who happens to own a HMgem workhop, says to get the motor winding over with no sparkplugs in it to brign oil pressure up and then fire it up. or the extra load on almost dry bearings, can cause unneeded issues.

sorry for trying to help. geez...

No No please dont be offended by what i had wrote.
Thankyou for your help.
Hey why do you do the remote filter thing?
Obviously benaficial?

 

[matqld]

holey sh#t lol that ^^ would've taken a while to write! i remembered this morning that i've heard of guys buying old fire extinguishers put a shroder valve attachment (im guessing theres one for oil as you've mentioned it and so did they i personally wouldnt have a clue lol) on the hose and tapping in a air fitting into the bottle... fill the bottle with oil and attach to the shroder valve on the engine then pressurise and pull the trigger...basically like holden does???

And thanx man, thats a sweet idea. and yes sounds like the same concept that holden does.

 

[klampy]

iv got the remote filter coz i was going to run an oil cooler sanwich plate, as you know, the filter is rather close to the chassis rail, so it wouldnt fit there with the sandwich plate.

i now no longer use that plate, but figured having a Z9 upgrade when i purchased the remote mount i figured id keep it being a bigger cheaper filter. just better overall.

 

[matqld]

iv got the remote filter coz i was going to run an oil cooler sanwich plate, as you know, the filter is rather close to the chassis rail, so it wouldnt fit there with the sandwich plate.

i now no longer use that plate, but figured having a Z9 upgrade when i purchased the remote mount i figured id keep it being a bigger cheaper filter. just better overall.

Yea man sounds sensible, maybe a better oil flow aswell with that filter.. cheers.. ahh i just remembered z9 same as used on a ford falcon 6cyl i think, gee yea when you think about it the ls1 oil filter is kinda smallish compared to that one.