Oil, tricky stuff.

[Scheme]

Gday guys,
got a 1990 VN Exective Wagon, have owned the exact same model before, but sold it off cheap and recently aquired this.
Bought it cheap with 8 months rego off an old bloke, no RWC which I'm working on.
The clock reads 336,760 at the moment, was 334,XXX when I bought it. It runs great, compared to my old one with MANY running issues pushing 306,000 on the clock, and I'm lead to believe it was probably poorly treated having 4 previous owners to myself.
Thing is, this has a Reconditioned motor and the old bloke, being a bit senile, didn't recall how long ago exactly this new engine was put in, or how many k's it had, only that it set him back $1,700 for motor and install labour...

Runs fine but I reckon it's time for an oil change and a service, which I plan to do myself, but I'm really dumb struck with what Oil to go with not knowing how old this engine is...so what do I do? Synthetic, Semi-Synth, Mineral? .... Help me out if possible anybody, and any tips, brands, specific items?

Big thanks!

 

[acarmody]

I would really like to know where you can get a reco motor done and installed for $1700? Sounds a little BS to me.

As for which oil, how much you want to spend. Nothing wrong with a good mineral, but a good synthetic will (theoretically) be better.

If the engine has been reco'd, maybe a 10w-40 or 10w-50

 

[Scheme]

Happy to spend up to about $65 for 5 litres.
I don't know if it makes any different but we live country and a lot of people around here do work for you for next to nothing.

 

[stuntmanmike]

Oil for non-race engines

Don't take my word for this; everyone one has a different opinion:
The really expensive synthetics are not worth it unless the engine has tight tolerances and demands the top shelf stuff.
Improving the oil change frequency is what I believe in for an everyday car. I usually change the oil in a used car more often when I buy one in an attempt to "clean" the sump of who knows what.
A 10w-30 is a good all rounder. If you are keen then blending around 20-30% top shelf engine oil will improve the properties of the oil inside the engine. And the grade should be changed between winter & summer (especially in the colder areas).
I have found that the expensive top shelf stuff is not really suitable for the hydraulic lifters. Then again everyone has a different opinion.
If it was a race car then oil changes would occur after each race for longevity of the engine. I hope this is of some help for you.

 

[acarmody]

Happy to spend up to about $65 for 5 litres.
I don't know if it makes any different but we live country and a lot of people around here do work for you for next to nothing.

Ah good ol' country help, love it.

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Any good quality 20W50 oil.

 

[Circlotron]

I usually change the oil in a used car more often when I buy one in an attempt to "clean" the sump of who knows what.

Amen to that.
Cheap-ass oil for 100km, then change again with reasonable oil at 1000km then back to normal.

 

[Scheme]

Gotta love the country people haha, lots of labor for little dollar!
Cheers guys, been reading over this and a few other pages here and there, think I'm going to go with Valvoline or Penrite 20W50 for the old girl, cheers!

 

[acarmody]

I have Valvoline Synpower 10w-50 in my car and like it. Supercheap have it on special for about $53. Its fully Synthetic.