Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

Painting bumper with 2k.

losh1971

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Messages
9,936
Reaction score
3,504
Points
113
Location
North Tas
Members Ride
VR Ute V6
I have a few questions about using 2k. I am thinking of painting my own rear bumper ends on the ute but not sure the best way to go. I am thinking 2k will be best but I don't know much about using it. Do i need special 2k for bumpers? Is there a specific flex prime needed for 2k? Do i need to add anything to the white to make it flexible?
Lastly could i use acrylic and just get some decent acrylic flex primer?
 

Trevor loves holden.

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2019
Messages
3,430
Reaction score
737
Points
113
Location
Victoria
Members Ride
vs commodore
Plastic primer and 2k paint, acrylic is crap, I use those max 2k solid spray cans on my roof it came up micky mouse no clear needed. My next challenge is the boot spoiler its all peeled off as water got under it. Just remove all the clear coat and then if its all smooth use the plastic primer if its got chips then use spray primer putty over those spots and allow to dry then give it a light sand then go over with plastic primer.
I was quoted 250 for a spoiler, holy crap..
 

mechanic

Active Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2018
Messages
277
Reaction score
132
Points
43
Location
Australia
Members Ride
Commodore
First of all you'll need a VOC mask and a method of catching the overspray. Exposure to isocyanate is an effective method of being diagnosed with cancer and lung disease later in life.

Secondly, automotive paint is already very flexible. New paint feels like rubber when cured and is about as flexible as an ice cream container lid. A lump of cured/dried paint (if left in a mixing pot for example) is about as squishy as a pencil eraser, or the rubber sole of your runners. Old paint gets fragile and cracks along sharp dents a creases but that takes a long time.

Where possible you should use the same brand and type paints and primers to ensure compatibility.

I'm not sure how it's possible to have a pre-packaged (spray can) two-part paint. The whole premise of 2K is that you mix a hardener into the paint just before spraying, and the paint chemically 'hardens'.
 

MuckUte

Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2012
Messages
107
Reaction score
12
Points
18
Location
Adelaide Hills
Members Ride
VY Cross 8
2K spray cans have a popper in the bottom that releases the hardener, then they have a limited life.
 

Vin999

Active Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2019
Messages
722
Reaction score
158
Points
43
Location
SA
Members Ride
VSedanS
2K spray cans have a popper in the bottom that releases the hardener, then they have a limited life.
basically 1 use then throw the rest away, bloody waste of good money
 

losh1971

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Messages
9,936
Reaction score
3,504
Points
113
Location
North Tas
Members Ride
VR Ute V6
Hoping someone might know about applying the 2k to my front bar cover. I have just about finished priming it and now need to figure the best way to apply white. I was thinking of getting 2k white and blowing it on But I am seeing most vids are using 2k base then clear. Be good if I can find out the advantages and disadvantages of both methods? I was thinking I had no need for clear and just applying 2k top coat and leaving it at that, but I am now not so sure? It's been a mammoth job stripping, sanding, filling and priming that I don't want to ruin 8-10hrs of work by stuffing up the final stage.
 

Chuckmeister

Active Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2018
Messages
106
Reaction score
107
Points
43
Location
Perth
Members Ride
VX SS
Clear coat for me is about adding depth in the paint (especially on a solid). If its a daily ( or not) then I'd just coat with white. You get a perfectly good finish. If its something you want to be a little more showy then do a clear over base. When I painted years ago I used to do a clear mix where I'd put on a coat 30 percent mixed (colour) with clear, 20 percent and 10 percent and then clear over that. I've even done that, sanded back and recleared. Depends on what your after.
 

Vin999

Active Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2019
Messages
722
Reaction score
158
Points
43
Location
SA
Members Ride
VSedanS
Hoping someone might know about applying the 2k to my front bar cover. I have just about finished priming it and now need to figure the best way to apply white. I was thinking of getting 2k white and blowing it on But I am seeing most vids are using 2k base then clear. Be good if I can find out the advantages and disadvantages of both methods? I was thinking I had no need for clear and just applying 2k top coat and leaving it at that, but I am now not so sure? It's been a mammoth job stripping, sanding, filling and priming that I don't want to ruin 8-10hrs of work by stuffing up the final stage.
Ask yourself a question @ Do I have a safe ventilated spray/baking booth at home to handle 2K ???. Your answer will decide what you do.

You’re talking about single stage 2K solid paint = colour/clear/hardener sprayed together .. versues.. two stage 2K = colour/clear sprayed separately..... You can also just spray two stage 2K base colour and then coats of 1K clear over it without issues for shine if you don’t have a proper spray baking booth or worried about your results.

Single stage solid colour 2K dries satin gloss and is basically what you get straight of the gun and is cheaper, easier, quicker to finish job but plenty of peel and you can get away with it in a shed but it won’t last long today in the uv environment and fade quickly plus chip easier. A lot of commercial/utes were painted in the cheaper single stage 2K plain solid colours like red, white, black.

At home in your situation, easier to spray 1K base colour and 1k clear and less chance you will ruin your previous work plus your ute is factory 1K .... even if you don’t have safety, experience, or patience or time for full 2K, it’s very hard to get everything needed absolutely right in a shed/outdoor environment ... that doesn’t mean it can’t be done. The 2k with many layers/coats even in hot/cold shed won’t harden/chemical reaction properly and will stink of dangerous fumes for a long time. The hardeners/catalysts are for spraying conditions and end result, not for curing to work on.

It’s basically stick to what you know/experience in 1K which is more forgiving, don’t risk the biscuits or take it to a spray painter to get it done professionally in 2K like your rear bumpers, considering you have saved $$ doing all the prep yourself and wont ruin that work. The single stage 2K solid colour/clear is your other option at home...... Two stage 2K is solvent/uv resistant and the best result, though very expensive $$$ especially if you make a misteak without good equipment.
 
Top