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Painting the the good old trim

Sly_VY

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My dark grey executive trim is starting to look a little bit cloudy, so im going to spray it quicksilver like the rest of my car, along with the rear view mirrors, and back license plate section. Are these parts def easy enough to take off with your everyday tools? I hear the part on the rear view mirror might be a bit tough to take off, so would it be reccomended that I tape it off like the door strips? And also, how many coats of paint after the primer, and how many clear coats would be sufficient? And one last question, what grain sandpaper should i use to prep the part? Sorry bout all the questions haha.

Cheers,

Luke :thumbsup:
 
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Chaddy

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for starters take ya side moulds off to paint them so u can get the sides and under the back lip or u will see the grey/black when u unmask it. to take the covers off your mirrors put a flathead screwdriver through the top or bottom of the mirror and push out the clips and they will come off pretty easily. when preping your moulds for primer use 240/320 and to prep for paint 600/800 wet and with quicksilver u will need 3/4 even coats to cover then 2 coats of clear. what brand of paint are you using and it better be 2pak or its not worth doing....what area are u in?
 

Sly_VY

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havent bought the paint yet, but ill def buy the good stuff, what brand do you recommend? And I live on the sunny coast in QLD, Thanks heaps for tips mate!
:thumbsup:
 

Jeffro74

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To rub all them parts id use a thing called scotchbrite,the side moulds and the rest of the stuff wont need an actual primer that you have to rub before you paint,you actually need a thing called plastic primer you just give the parts 2 light coats and wait about 20 minutes then continue with 3 coats or basecoat then 2 coats of clear.
 

Phreddy

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Definitely what Jeffro said about the plastic primer.

Have you seen the front bumpers on cars that have been replaced/repainted, and after a couple of years the paint's all flaking off?? That's due to the plasticisers leaching out of the moulding over it's lifetime (which almost all plastics do) and that will ultimately break the bond between a "normal" primer and the surface. There's something special about the "plastic primer" which resists those plasticisers. (not sure exactly what or how, all I know is it does work.)

Good luck with it. :thumbsup:
 
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