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Penrite; is it the go?

Scheme

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Got a VN With reco engine with about 200,000 - 250,000 K on the clock.
About to do a service and change a few other things under the hood.
I've scoured through the forums and find about an equal amount of arguments FOR and AGAINST using what I have summed up possibly the best cost price and value oil for me:
PENRITE HPR10 10W / 50

Some say using this in their commodores has made it run like a dream, whilst others claim it has made their car louder on start up, and hence have changed to Valvoline or another brand.

Any assistance?
 

jellycalais

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Got a VN With reco engine with about 200,000 - 250,000 K on the clock.
About to do a service and change a few other things under the hood.
I've scoured through the forums and find about an equal amount of arguments FOR and AGAINST using what I have summed up possibly the best cost price and value oil for me:
PENRITE HPR10 10W / 50

Some say using this in their commodores has made it run like a dream, whilst others claim it has made their car louder on start up, and hence have changed to Valvoline or another brand.

Any assistance?

I just did a service on my Calais this weekend, filters, spark plugs the lot of it. I bought some Valvoline Max Life which I have used before. Although my Calais only has 113,000, the Max Life I bought before was good and I havent noticed anything different since changing it. I would also suggest you get some engine detox to get all the crap thats left in the engine (I used Liquid Moly Engine Detox) and maybe even some fuel injector cleaner, just to get it going alittle better. I have heard some good things about Penrite oils (and some bad). Ive never tried it myself, but give it a go and see how it is.
 

dirt drifter

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i cant comment on the viscosity of the stuff you're looking at but i've run penrite HPR30 in my 5L's ever since i had a licence, changed every 5000k's.

many people seem to recommend it and i've had no dramas at all with it
 

Brett_jjj

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For a few years now Ive used the penrite semi synthetic HPR 15,which is a 15W-60 oil.It exceeds the manufacturers recommended specs of 20W-50,its a bit thinner at cold startup,which means the oil gets up into the engine faster when its first started from cold.And then on the other hand, it also stays a bit thicker at high temps, so it gives you better protection in the high temps of the aussie summers.Its not very expensive either,around $30 for 5 litres.Id recommend it to anyone wanting a good oil for their V6..I have recently changed to mobil 1 oil now which is a full synthetic oil...
 

Scheme

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Thanks for the info guys, starting to get a bit more direction now, I reckon I may give it a crack.
The book states 10W / 40 for the VN, now over 20 years old, I live in Gippsland in victoria, it's pretty cold here, and might as well not have even had a Summer for 2010/2011... So I'm assuming the 10W / 50 Penrite semi synthetic should do the trick and if need be on the next change go to full synthetic perhaps. I just want something thats under $60 for 5 litres, and will protect my engine and make it run efficiently hence reading the specs of HPR10
 

vxcomm

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Hi Scheme Penrite is okay dont get caught up in that expensive crap its only a waste of money oil companies want you to buy. The oil repco sells as its own is penrite as long as you change regularly,most brands are okay $25 - $35 should get ya a good oil,cheers.
 

Scheme

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Possibly now thinking HPR15 as many have said that over the HPR10 as it '*Semi-synthetic engine oil formulated primarily for use in "older" engines
*Suitable for use in pre 1997 Australian family cars'
 

92 VP SS

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I really like the valvoline VR1 mineral racing oil, its around 50 in NZ and has one of the highest zinc contents in it.
 

Jonno

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i run penrite hpr30 in my 202 and my vk loves it

might as well give penrite a go?
 

klampy

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i use HPR10 in my VR. never had any issues and it was absolutely flogged. when i broke the timing chain and had it apart, was still spotlessly clean inside. no sign of gunge or sludge anywhere.

another positive note,(a year later) the engine was sitting under a plastic cover that must have leaked coz the sump had about 2L of water in it, and the oil that was still clinging to the underside of everything was enough to stop it rusting.

basically the moral to that story, penrite also has Klingon properties... much like Magnatec.... good for those worried that theres no oil where it needs to be after being left to sit.
 
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