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Performance Shift Module VS stage 2 shift kit

justbad4you

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whats the better of the two for take off ? my top end is fine...having an auto on a v8 is little slow of the mark for me,,so what of the 2 items above would be (better) :boxing:cheeers:boxing:
 

justbad4you

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WHAT WOULD A high stall converter cost up against a stage 2?.
I can't see either having an effect on take off? Your 1-2 shift would be improved no doubt there but as for your take off I think you'd be better off looking at a high stall converter.
 

acarmody

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Stall/Torque converters start at about $500 and go up from there. And that's just to supply the parts. And then your car would be less powerful below the stall point.

I would go diff gears first. Stallie for when you get a cam.
 

justbad4you

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diff gears? i just want more launch on take off from the auto without doing the gears if i can? the 185i hsv plenty of guts and go(just bugger all on take off or not how i would like it lol)>>>
Stall/Torque converters start at about $500 and go up from there. And that's just to supply the parts. And then your car would be less powerful below the stall point.

I would go diff gears first. Stallie for when you get a cam.
 

acarmody

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Well a higher RPM stallie will allow you to hold the brakes down longer in the RPM range and allow you to 'launch' higher in your power band, but you will lose some milage in normal driving since you will need more gas to tack-off normally. Also 'stalling' it up so high will generate a LOT of heat and trannies absolutely hate that, so a big trannie cooler would definitely be in order.

But seriously what tyres are you running? If you can't break traction with stock tyres doing a 2000rpm stallie dump with the stock stallie than there's something wrong with your car. So unless you have some really grippy tyres, I wouldn't worry about a bigger stallie.
 

Brett_jjj

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As mentioned,lower diff gears will help get it off the line way quicker the the standard 3.08:1 ratio.Its not too expensive either.Lots of people seem to go for 3.5 :1 or or lower,a popular size is 3.75:1,it keeps some drivability on the highway.The lower the diff gears,the higher the engine will rev at 100kmh.You dont want to go too low and have it reving at 4000 rpm at 100kph.
 

justbad4you

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brand new mate 3weeks old Bridgestones.i dont take that v8 often so i say thay would be lucky to have done 100km the old tyres i could smoke up/spin the weels easy with 60% tread the bridgies stick like glue on take off
Well a higher RPM stallie will allow you to hold the brakes down longer in the RPM range and allow you to 'launch' higher in your power band, but you will lose some milage in normal driving since you will need more gas to tack-off normally. Also 'stalling' it up so high will generate a LOT of heat and trannies absolutely hate that, so a big trannie cooler would definitely be in order.

But seriously what tyres are you running? If you can't break traction with stock tyres doing a 2000rpm stallie dump with the stock stallie than there's something wrong with your car. So unless you have some really grippy tyres, I wouldn't worry about a bigger stallie.
all the running gear is 100%
 

acarmody

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I still think diff gears would be the way to go.

But if you really want to go stallie, than think about a cam too. These two items preferably should match up, you buy a stallie to match your cam generally. And seriously, the 5.0L loves cams.
 

Rusty

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I got the VR SS 5L basically stock and a VR 5L ute with cam, mild stall and a shift kit and the difference is amazing!

I realise the ute is lighter but it completely eats my stock SS. Acceleration heaps better with much much firmer shifts! Heaps more fun!
 
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