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PLease help. Ignition diagnostics (V6)

V6025

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The Crank Angle Sensor and Cam Sensor share the power supply from the DFI, they also share the same ground. If the CAS has power and Cam sensor does not than it would suggest a wiring fault.

Attached is the wiring diagram for the VT V6.

Also note that the cam does only 1 turn for every 2 turns of the crank and the cam sensor only triggers once per revolution of the cam. Unfortunately I don't know if the cam signal is signal high or signal low. The cam signal works with a magnet fixed in the cam sprocket. To test you could probably remove the cam sensor from the timing cover and use a reasonably strong magnet to see if that activates the cam sensor.
The cam wires have continuity to the wiring harness at the DFI Module. The signal wire A brn goes into the DFI hole J i assume it comes out?? This is where i'm stuck. To trace wire to see if it is shorting out or a break further along as some of the wiring outer has cracked and spit due to engine heat i suppose
 

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V6025

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Might be time to test? See what happens?
Havent been able to put the parts back together cause the rain has been a complete @#$/^ to say the least lol.
 
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V6025

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The Crank Angle Sensor and Cam Sensor share the power supply from the DFI, they also share the same ground. If the CAS has power and Cam sensor does not than it would suggest a wiring fault.

Attached is the wiring diagram for the VT V6.

Also note that the cam does only 1 turn for every 2 turns of the crank and the cam sensor only triggers once per revolution of the cam. Unfortunately I don't know if the cam signal is signal high or signal low. The cam signal works with a magnet fixed in the cam sprocket. To test you could probably remove the cam sensor from the timing cover and use a reasonably strong magnet to see if that activates the cam sensor.
Immortality, thanks for providing the download mate. Un fortunately i dont have enough storage space to view it atm.
I'm only new to electrical commponents and testing them.
I came across a mutimeter at cashies a few months ago and taught myself how to sorta use it.
Youtube can be a great tool if you can weave your way through and sort out whats rigjt and
 
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V6025

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Immortality, thanks for providing the download mate. Un fortunately i dont have enough storage space to view it atm.
I'm only new to electrical commponents and testing them.
I came across a mutimeter at cashies a few months ago and taught myself how to sorta use it.
Youtube can be a great tool if you can weave your way through and sort out whats rigjt and
Opps! Pressed the wrong key. Ha!Ha!Ha! Anyway and whats B.S.
So i'm not up with the signal may be high or it can be low? I'm still coming to terms with. Ground, ground side. Voltage drop tests,
Parasitic drains, ect. Ect. Lol. (But one step in front of the other.)
But if i get stuck i know i can always ask the helpful people like yourself. On this cool site To possibly pull me outta the **** again.
But i do undestand about what you said about using a magnet.
Ive seen them conecting the sensor back pinning it and bringing a socket close to the sensor with a reading of 0.00v and when then remove it it goes back to about 4. Something volts.
But i need to know how to trace wire A back totje Fatherland.
(Where ever the @#$/ that is and get some 5v from it for my cam sensor and then i can tell all the hreat people that have helped me tonight. We kicked this one in the balls and got a win. Eh?
 
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Immortality

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I'll add some screen shots of the wiring diagrams here.
1654471283553.png

DFI & Cam sensor plug pin outs

1654471539639.png


CAS sensor pin outs
1654471606483.png
 

Immortality

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I've edited the thread title.

The first basic tests with your multimeter is to test the ground and power supply to the Cam and Crank Sensors.

Using your multimeter on the Volts (DC) setting. Put the ground probe on the battery ground terminal (I use a clip attachment so it's set and forget).

Then to test both the Cam and Crank plugs (unplugged from sensors with the ignition switched on) check each plug, White wire/Black Trace should show either battery voltage or 5 volts ( I can't remember what voltage these sensors operate on) and then check the Grey wire/red trace on each plug and they should show 0 volts. For the ground wire you can also flick the Multimeter over the continuity setting.
 
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V6025

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Immortality, thanks for providing the download mate. Un fortunately i dont have enough storage space to view it atm.
I'm only new to electrical commponents and testing them.
I came across a mutimeter at cashies a few months ago and taught myself how to sorta use it.
Youtube can be a great tool if you can weave your way through and sort out whats rigjt and
Opps! Pressed the wrong key. Ha!Ha!Ha! Anyway and whats B.S.
So i'm not up with the
I'll add some screen shots of the wiring diagrams here.
View attachment 238479
DFI & Cam sensor plug pin outs

View attachment 238483

CAS sensor pin outs
View attachment 238485
Cheers mate.
 

BlackVXGTS

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Attachment from the Holden VT/VX Service Manual. Includes the recommended testing process. Only 590kb in size, should be easy for you to download:
 

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PaulMcGTS

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Hey guys, not sure if i'm doing this right or not as i've never been on a forum site before.
I've posted my problem twice already but havent gotbany replies to either.

So i'm not sure if i'm doing it right?
Nobody can answer my questions?
Or no one is interested cause i'm new to this site?

I cant see it being the latter cause i've seen other first posts answered. Well it would be pretty ordinary if it was. Lol.

Anyway i'll try again.
I have a 1998 5 speed Vt.
Last week i had a fault code 48 come up. Cam sensor.
Car was running rough and back firing in between gear changing from 2nd to 3rd.
Replaced the crank angle sensor and the backfire went away. But when i put my foot down acceleration was poor but if i eased it up gently the car would cruise along.
(Sometimes you wouldnt think there was a problem at all)
But i could feel all wasnt well.
"We all know how are ride feels"
And when its having a bad moment.
So i bridged the fault plug and 48 came up. Cam sensor.
Used a mutimeter and found groud ithimknits called on the connector and battery voltage but know signal wire voltage.
Tested the crank sensor connector all as it should be. The cam and crank sensors share two spiced wires from the dfi module. SORRY ITS A NOVEL. But i'm really stuck.
Can anyone help as i cant get an auto electrican to come out to where i am.
I don't know if this is relevant or not but I had a 1998 vt calais many moons ago and had dfi problems. The first time it happened, the car out of the blue started running rough. It turned out the dfi had developed some sort of problem. So replaced it and it was fine. Then around 3 months later same thing happened and it was the exact same problem with the dfi. So again replaced it but this time I bought a spare to have in the car so i could change it out if anything happened. Which it did around about the same time frame. So wacked the spare one in and brought another one but it never missed a beat again. And ironically, the spare one was a cheap arse Chinese one.
 

V6025

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Immortality, thanks for providing the download mate. Un fortunately i dont have enough storage space to view it atm.
I'm only new to electrical commponents and testing them.
I came across a mutimeter at cashies a few months ago and taught myself how to sorta use it.
Youtube can be a great tool if you can weave your way through and sort out whats rigjt and
Opps! Pressed the wrong key. Ha!Ha!Ha! Anyway and whats B.S.
So i'm not up with the
I don't know if this is relevant or not but I had a 1998 vt calais many moons ago and had dfi problems. The first time it happened, the car out of the blue started running rough. It turned out the dfi had developed some sort of problem. So replaced it and it was fine. Then around 3 months later same thing happened and it was the exact same problem with the dfi. So again replaced it but this time I bought a spare to have in the car so i could change it out if anything happened. Which it did around about the same time frame. So wacked the spare one in and brought another one but it never missed a beat again. And ironically, the spare one was a cheap arse Chinese one.
Thanks for your input Paul everything is a plus when you talking about information to problem solve
I don't know if this is relevant or not but I had a 1998 vt calais many moons ago and had dfi problems. The first time it happened, the car out of the blue started running rough. It turned out the dfi had developed some sort of problem. So replaced it and it was fine. Then around 3 months later same thing happened and it was the exact same problem with the dfi. So again replaced it but this time I bought a spare to have in the car so i could change it out if anything happened. Which it did around about the same time frame. So wacked the spare one in and brought another one but it never missed a beat again. And ironically, the spare one was a cheap arse Chinese one. Thanks for your input Paul

I don't know if this is relevant or not but I had a 1998 vt calais many moons ago and had dfi problems. The first time it happened, the car out of the blue started running rough. It turned out the dfi had developed some sort of problem. So replaced it and it was fine. Then around 3 months later same thing happened and it was the exact same problem with the dfi. So again replaced it but this time I bought a spare to have in the car so i could change it out if anything happened. Which it did around about the same time frame. So wacked the spare one in and brought another one but it never missed a beat again. And ironically, the spare one was a cheap arse Chinese one.
Thanks for your input Paul anything relevant or not is always welcomed one person when you're trying to problem solve yeah mate just replace the coils and the dfi module who is Delphi genuine parts but I could really do with electrician to look over me while I take on the wiring diagrams and other electrical diagnostic procedures that have been suggested and supplied to me by great people on this site that'll just give me the confidence that I'm heading in the right direction and doing it right. ( cuz I'm no electrician not by any standards of the word.) only a newbie wa cheers for your imput buddy truly welcomed
I don't know if this is relevant or not but I had a 1998 vt calais many moons ago and had dfi problems. The first time it happened, the car out of the blue started running rough. It turned out the dfi had developed some sort of problem. So replaced it and it was fine. Then around 3 months later same thing happened and it was the exact same problem with the dfi. So again replaced it but this time I bought a spare to have in the car so i could change it out if anything happened. Which it did around about the same time frame. So wacked the spare one in and brought another one but it never missed a beat again. And ironically, the spare one was a cheap arse Chinese one.
Hi Paul no just replaced coil packs and dfi mods with genuine Delphi parts relevant or not any input has to be a positive thing when you trying to problem solve you haven't so thanks for taking the time to get back to me cheers mate
 
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