Polishing the SS

[PlenumBiscuit]

We have a 2017 ss sedan and its black

Can hose it off all day everyday but the shine is dimming and it needs a polish

However unlike our VY that you can cut n polish or slop that orange bottle of polish on it, it get the feeling that the 2017 paint work requires something different or a more advanced polish?

Could someone recommend whats best for the VF... we dont have a buffer, we'll only probably use chammy etc

Some nob head recommended mr sheen omg.

 

[Voodoo_SV6]

I guess the first thing is to understand the difference between cut, polish, claybar, wax and sealant.

The first two work by removing a little of the top layer of paint to reveal what's underneath and ultimately, you'll eat through your clear coat.

I use only a claybar (to remove external contaminents on the paint - once a year), and sealant (it only adds a protective coating to the paint. It won't remove any imperfections on contaminants - every three months for cars parked outside day or night - once every six months for garaged cars) on all of my cars.

I use NXT Sealant from Meguairs.

 

[VS 5.0]

1. Throw that chammy (and I presume a sponge to wash) away and get yourself a microfibre wash mit and drying towel. Sponges and chammys will marr the paint.

2. As @Voodoo_SV6 says, there is more to it than a "cut and polish".

3. You don't necessarily need a buff. You can do it by hand with the correct applicator pads and buffing cloths which is how I do mine.

4. I would only use cutting copound if the paint is severely detriorated / oxidised. I wouldn't expect this to be the case with a 2017 car.

5. I would be inclined to clay bar, polish and seal/wax. Once you've washed the car, clay bar, tape up alll areas that aren't painted, i.e. plastic trims, badges etc, polish then seal/wax.

6. Allow up to 6 or 7 hurs if doing tis by hand and have cold beers n the fridge so you can sit back and admise your work with a coldie at the end of the day.

I only clayed and waxed mine a few months ago as I didn't consider it needed a polish. Check my ride thread below for some pics if your interested.

Also, +1 for Meguiars.

 

[Mattricho]

I use aytoglym polish every 3-4 months (car is only in a car port) followed by autoglym hard wax.

You need to put a wax or sealant over any polished Surface to protect the paint especially if you do a cut and polish.

There’s a channel on YouTube called AMMO NYC and he is really good (a little crazy) but really good at explaining all this stuff

This is the wife’s 2013 barina from about a month ago

 

[franco]

I agree with Mattricho the AMMO guy is good watching and learning.
The only problem is when the auto suppliers have specials now I start to think I need that product try
it then buy another. Just wax on and wax off in straight movements.
(sorry had to put that one in maybe showing my age, bad joke)

 

[panhead]

I’ll add a little to some of the good advice already given.

Decontamination of the painted surface with a clay bar and a good quality lube is a must to get rid of the grime and blemishes.

If the surface is dulled by marring and deep swirls then no hand polish will ever fix that and you may need to bite the bullet and purchase a polishing machine or have a detailer correct it.

Polish is not wax and wax is not polish and products that contain a combination of the two are usually a compromise.

Many of the cheaper polishes on the market and this includes some of the Meguiars products contain fillers which fill up the swirls to give the appearance of a smooth surface and this filler will wash out in a few weeks and the dull look will reappear.

Always use the two bucket method to wash the car to minimise swirling, use microfibre cloths instead of chamois and terry towels, use waffle weave cloths to dry, use microfibre mitts to wash and microfibre cloths to buff.

Seal your freshly polished surface with a good quality wax to protect it which will last several months then need reapplying.

Use a ceramic paint sealer in place of a wax if you prefer a longer life but you’ll need to be sure you’ve thoroughly prepped the surface first otherwise any imperfections will be locked in under the sealer and the job will look crap.

There are many more fastidious processes you can follow as well as the above basics and if you are a true beginner when it comes to maintaining or detailing a car to a higher end finish then I suggest you get onto the detailing forums and youtube and start reading and watching the good advice the professionals offer then cater what you learn to suit your own needs.

There are few if any shortcuts to gaining and maintain a high quality surface on a car.

Another thing to note is higher end products usually only cost a few dollars more than the cheaper stuff so take note of what the detailers are using and if you can’t see those products at places like Supercheap then check out on-line suppliers like Car Care Products which will offer a much wider range and you can also contact them to ask advice.





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[Mattricho]

I’ll just ad to @panhead I find aqua wax excellent to dry the car with just spray it on and wipe off and your adding another layer of protection

 

[panhead]

I’ll just ad to @panhead I find aqua wax excellent to dry the car with just spray it on and wipe off and your adding another layer of protection

Agreed and detailing sprays to give a bit extra shine by removing any byproduct water marks is also good to have in your arsenal.




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[ol smokey]

I have a 2017 black SS Sportswagon and I absolutely HATE washing the damn thing. You've got to wash it every few days too otherwise it looks very shabby.
I'm getting the Permagard treatment in a few days. A hose & a chamois and guaranteed to look a million bucks. The only problem is the price...

 

[panhead]

I have a 2017 black SS Sportswagon and I absolutely HATE washing the damn thing. You've got to wash it every few days too otherwise it looks very shabby.
I'm getting the Permagard treatment in a few days. A hose & a chamois and guaranteed to look a million bucks. The only problem is the price...

After a year you’ll probably be very disappointed.

Ceramic coatings are not what they are advertised to be and need to be well maintained if you wish to retain the shine and protection and a hose and chamois just won’t cut it.

These coatings do add a layer of protection but they are nowhere near as tough as the manufacturers want you to believe, they still suffer swirls and etching and they are hard to remove when the time comes to do correction work.

If you read the fine print you’ll also find they also need at a minimum yearly maintenance to enable them to do the job expected of them.

That’s the short reply.




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