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Power upgrade

Discussion in 'VF Holden Commodore (2013 - 2017)' started by eman1, Dec 5, 2018.

  1. eman1

    eman1 Active Member

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    Hey everyone,

    I’m looking to complete a upgrade for power with a Intake and tune on the LS3, it’s already got 1 7/8 headers and 3” hurricane exhaust. I’ve been quoted about $1300 which seems good value for around 300rwkw.

    I’m tossing up whether to do a cam upgrade at the same time for the extra power and lumpy idle, roughly how much extra is a cam upgrade to prevent paying for a tune twice, and what cam would most reccomend for a really lumpy idle but also don’t want to lose all bottom end.
     
  2. panhead

    panhead Well-Known Member

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    Cost will depends on what size cam you decide on, entry level will require at a minimum valve springs, cam gear, bolts, retainers and gaskets and possibly pushrods and lifters which you’ll definitely need with a higher lift cam.

    I’d be budgeting $5K for an entry level which would include the tune.

    You already have big headers and exhaust so going a bigger cam will be easy.

    If you want lumpy go with a low LSA but really you need to talk to your tuner as they will be able to cater a package to suit your needs better than forum speculation.



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    Last edited: Dec 6, 2018
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  3. EternityDre

    EternityDre Well-Known Member

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    I really find it hard to justify $5k+ for a tiny bit more power and a worse sound but each to their own (flame suit on)
     
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  4. markalan1two

    markalan1two Smile and wave boys !!!!

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    if your just after a lumpy idle the tuner will be able to do this for you with the standard cam
     
  5. panhead

    panhead Well-Known Member

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    Each to their own, there’s nothing wrong with your opinion on the subject and you’ll have a lot of people agree with you, as there will also be people who can’t see the sense of adding something as basic as an aftermarket exhaust and tune.

    As far as cost versus output goes, unfortunately horsepower cost money and as you progress up the ladder towards the pointy end the harder and ridiculously costlier it becomes.

    I don’t think $5K for a cam swap it too bad given a lot of people pay that just for exhaust, CAI and tune.

    Do the whole package in one hit and you’ll save some money.

    Forced induction is often a better route as you have a less look at me final outcome compared to the theatricals of some cams but F.I. isn’t cheap.

    Regardless of it being a cam, stroker or F.I., as the power increases you then need to start adding the cost of reliability and look at strengthen up the internals from top to bottom.

    More money, more money, more money.

    I understand the sense of forced induction as a good way to make power without being in your face but I do love noisy, smelly cams and always tend to gravitate that way.

    In most cases I may not be able to keep pace with an F.I car but on the street it doesn’t matter but being a bit extroverted is what I like my cars to be about, I’ve owned a few turbo cars and not once have I ever had someone walk up to me on the street and say what turbos are you running but I’ve had countless times people have said, wow what cam is that?

    As I said each to their own as some people like to stay stock, some like to go full tilt, some just add rims and tyres, some also lower or add catbacks as the car game isn’t all about power and it definitely isn’t about common sense.



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  6. Deucefanny

    Deucefanny Member

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    Best line ever!:D:D
     
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  7. eman1

    eman1 Active Member

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    Fair enough, was looking to spend max 3-4K so might just go the intake and tune for $1300, thanks for the advice
     
  8. monty_vfssv

    monty_vfssv Active Member

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    1500 for cam and spring package, 150 for oil/filter and coolant, 600 for intake, 500 for a tune, 1000 for labour (guess)

    $3750

    I done my cam swap myself to save on labour, all up including the tune was about $2500. Went from 298kw to 340kw.. best money I have spent on it so far!
     
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  9. blackve76

    blackve76 Well-Known Member

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    GM motorsport in Vic have special ATM 3k drive in and out for cam
     
  10. tml678

    tml678 Well-Known Member

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    Long way from Mackay though! He'll blow his budget in juice just getting there...;)
     
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  11. Strattos

    Strattos Member

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    Totally agree with this. Each to their own - there's no 'right', however I'm in the same camp as you. My 2000-model ute with a cam etc has less go than my VFSS (which I love, don't get me wrong), but every time I start up the older but lumpier ute and listen to it idle at stop lights it still brings a big smile to my dial.

    Nothing at all wrong with FI, just what does it for you.
     
  12. dimetime

    dimetime Active Member

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    Most places ive been quoted $3k to $3.5k for a cam package, no afm/dod gear so definitely cheaper then the vf1s and late ve2s, throw in the otr and cam package already including a tune youd be looking around the $4k id say.
    Just be aware that there are cams for all applications, daily drivers with plenty of torque all the way to race cams with big power numbers, you want to make sure you select or have a solid convo with your tuner to make sure your getting something that doesnt become a pain to drive.
    Ive got a mate that has a race cam, super lumpy, big power numbers and is a pig to drive, his looking to change his because its just to difficult to drive!
     
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  13. panhead

    panhead Well-Known Member

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    As pointed out by others you’ll find discounts if you take the time to shop around and many of the well-known tuners from time to time will have specials.

    I don’t necessarily shop on price as my first priority when it comes to my cars is to go to a shop that I trust.

    blackve76 has posted that GM Motorsport is currently offering a cam swap for $3K which is a good price and they have a great reputation so if you lived in the area and were thinking of a cam then it would definitely be worth looking into.

    I’ve not had a cam done in recent years under $4K and the last was around $4.5K so to be on the safe side and not under estimate for the OP I rounded it up to a $5K budget.

    Also make sure you know what you’re getting for your money, for example what brand and type of valve springs, lifters and pushrods are included in the package, the good ones ain’t cheap and the cheap ones don’t last, so do your homework.

    Coming from a family that worked in the industry I still always offer two bits of advice, go to someone who has a good reputation and you get what you pay for.

    The other important fact is the good shops who know their business and are experienced in this type of work will come up with a good package to suit your needs or try and steer you away from something that isn't sensible or streetable.

    It doesn't matter how good the components and workmanship is if you end up with a package that is knackered from the start.



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  14. EternityDre

    EternityDre Well-Known Member

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    Great advice mate
     
  15. SS Flo Rida

    SS Flo Rida Active Member

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    I’d have thought 300rwkw without a cam with just bolt ons would be pushing it.
    Spend the extra and cam it. If you plan on keeping the car you will eventually cam it like most people down the track.
    There’s too many good cams to choose from to recommend to you but if it’s an A6 the 224/232 duration is tried and tested but imo you’d need a hi stall converter.
    That cam in my NA ls3 made 330 rwkw and dropped a second off my quarter mile ET. If anything I picked up bottom end from 1200 rpm
     
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  16. PeteSS

    PeteSS Active Member

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    Mine's got the VCM5sc which I believe is the same duration. it is borderline on needing a stall converter, though you can get away with not needing one. Mine is a daily driver in heavy traffic. Can get annoying at times, but livable
     
  17. eman1

    eman1 Active Member

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    Ended up booking the cam upgrade with the intake and tune.

    Will post feedback after work is completed at the end of month.

    Thanks everyone for your input.
     
  18. abuch47

    abuch47 Active Member

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    VCM cam and intake? what specs.

    I'm thinking put on a MAF OTR, hsv exhaust system myself no tune and then go cam and tune at a shop a little bit later.
     
  19. eman1

    eman1 Active Member

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    It’s a custom grind crow cam, I don’t have the specs as he keeps them as he spent time designing the cam.

    Made for low to mid range torque with an aggressive idle.
     
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  20. abuch47

    abuch47 Active Member

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    Who by? Not sure if you already mentioned.
     

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