Problem with trac controll or diff?

[Immortality]

It was an option to have an LSD unit fitted with the SC engines but not standard. It should have been, my missus VX II SC Calais has a standard open diff and it's pitiful, can't cope with the extra torque/power at all, try to get away quick and all you get is either wheel spin with traction control off or it goes and then stops with the traction control on.

Yes Holden ESP (Stabilitrak) apparently does apply brakes to individual wheels for oversteer an understeer, safety functions, a step short of performance enhancement as per Gen-F GTS' Torque Vectoring.

In any case whether it has individual braking thingy like the later cars, I remember the clicking sound of traction control on a vx, gets sorta worse as it gets older. Is nothing to do with LSD as I had a VXII six wagon, nothing to worry about IMO. Re single spinner, perhaps you don't have an LSD else well worn.

I don't think the VX ever came with that. Just ABS and traction control as far as I'm aware (I'll have to check the owners manual). Regardless. If it was the traction control effecting the brakes I would expect it to do it with the traction control on, in this case, it's single pegging with the traction control off which would be the exact opposite of what you would expect.

The factory traction control settings are just to bloody aggressive IMHO. For the VE models it will allow a certain amount of wheel slip before it starts to cut the fun, for the VX it just cuts the power hard. Most frustrating, however nothing that can't be fixed with a little tuning. I have damaged my rear coupling and possibly the diff thanks to the traction control, I have since then reduced how hard it cuts torque.

 

[ADTR-jolan]

Thanks everyone for your time and knowledge, and haha yes was meant to be vr senator but it auto corrects to vt because I use to look up vt stuff because there's more info/modding on vt's than Vx, I'm sure the traction controll cuts the ignision even when not skidding lol take off at the lights and it goes past 3,500rpm it says low trac and cuts engine lol have to drive with trac off because it's getting worse with it on, and on another side note my 2 catylitic converters are worn away and I was going to put a vt cat to replace one in the meantime but the exhaust shop (right price exhaust on moss street) said that it will harm my engine bye causing too much back pressure? I've never head of that? and he said that the s/c version makes that much more power it won't be able to breath with the vt cats on lol it's not that much more powerfull

 

[ADTR-jolan]

And have yous noticed that the good old commodores sound like they hit the limiter before they do? At around 3.5tpm-4rpm it sounds like it's hitting the limiter badly lol never flattened it until it gets there because it sounds like title rev it's guts out bye the time it gets there

 

[ADTR-jolan]

Bump.bump.bump

 

[Immortality]

It's not a problem I've had and I've spent plenty of time getting V6's past 4000rpm. I'd be looking at things like spark plugs and ignition system. Also check the fuel system, in particular the fuel filter. Could be any number of reasons why it may appear to hitting a limiter but it's something else.

I certainly wouldn't be changing from a twin to single exhaust system.

 

[ADTR-jolan]

Thanks immortality- I'm doing a full engine and gearbox servise this weekend dropping both sumps and cleaning it all out or whatever's at the bottom of the sump and for the exhaust system I just revef it around 2,5k for a minnit and the inside if the cats des interested or stoped rattling, getting a full $1,550 exhaust system from right price exhaust in December my little Christmas present to myself lol

 

[ucwepn]

I'm not sure if the v6 traction control is controlled by the throttlebody and ignition retarding like my v8, but its annoying as fck when I forget it's on and the pedal kicks my foot off lol.

 

[madcapmagician]

does the clicking get faster as you increase speed? Even marginally? Yes, I'd be removing the rear cover after draining the fluid and running a magnet around inside. If nothing appears amiss inside, put the cover back on and replace the oil and I would highly recommend adding LSD friction modifier fluid. Then keep digging... if you find some loose metal in the housing, it's either a rebuild - which is expensive or replace which is either expensive-ish or cheap and very risky. Something I've found happens a bit is the drive shaft retaining clips sometimes fail causing a drive shaft to 'float' and cause either a knocking noise from the diff or a cv type noise from the cv. If you drop the axles off the diff, make sure you don't let them hang down - the cv boots are easily torn. Just see if the drive shafts slide out of the side bearing housings easily. They shouldn't. If the clips are intact inside you need a good deal of force with a pinch bar to lever the shafts out. If they or one comes out with minimal effort that could be the problem. New clips are about 5 bucks for two from Holden and are dead easy to replace once the shaft is out. Good luck - be interested to hear what you find..