problems with acrylic paint

[showbags]

Daks, ISO FREE has no isocynates or cyanide in it. It's an acrylic two pack. No more harmful than what your using now.
VR38, ISO FREE has its own dedicated hardener and reducer.

 

[DAKSTER]

Daks, ISO FREE has no isocynates or cyanide in it. It's an acrylic two pack. No more harmful than what your using now.
VR38, ISO FREE has its own dedicated hardener and reducer.

I know mate, I was responding to Hi Ryders comments..

cant understand why everyone is so afraid of the iso stuff, just buy a good mask and wear eye protection when your spraying, and gloves when you mix it and you should be sweet.

i drink it for breakfast, and sprinkle it on my toast. if it was that bad for you i wouldnt be here to type this...

I understand his point too.. he has used it for years and noticed no ill effect. I just choose not to take that chance.. along with the legal implications too of course. When everyone knows the effect of cyanide on the human body, why would anyone take a chance with it at all, thats my point. Thats why we are discussing Iso Free in the first place..

 

[showbags]

Sorry Daks, didn't read that bit.

 

[hi_ryder]

joking about drinking it and eating it lol, but i do wear full airwash, gloves and spray suit when using 2k's. the prep bays we have at work are pretty good as well. all materials get sucked into the floors either sanding or spraying primer. no overspray clouds in the shop so thats good.

im not worried, theres plenty of custom painters still around, kosmoski (HOK paints) has been doing it from 1956 till now. he even manufactured his own pigments for years and dealt with some pretty gnarley chemicals along the way. as long as you wear your PPE (personal protective equipment) and handle it with common sense you should be fine. on top of that the people on the forum doing maybe 1 or 2 hobby paint jobs a year have even less to worry about, its not a full time exposure thing.

that being said i take the same precautions with 1k as i do 2k paint. regardless if it has iso in it or not, that **** is still bad for your health so i wouldnt get complacent because you think its less harmful.

 

[garth7777]

showbags what brands do you use,, is there any tips you can give us on spraying this sort of paint,, have you had it on your cars for any length of time if so how has it held over that period

 

[showbags]

showbags what brands do you use,, is there any tips you can give us on spraying this sort of paint,, have you had it on your cars for any length of time if so how has it held over that period

I use hi chem iso free primer/Isolater first. I apply that with a 1.8mm tip, let that air dry for between 3 and 7 days( don't leave it any longer or it's too hard to sand). I use acrylic as my base, if it's a metallic or pearl color, apply this as you normally would, if using clear dont let it completely dry. I then use hi chem iso free clear, use the slow hardener not the normal, with a 1.2mm tip at 60psi. The critical part here is with room temperature. If its too cold, the clear will run and sag like a mother f&@ker. I've found the best results of between 18-22 degrees ambient temperature. 2-3 coats is usually enough, but depends on how heavy you are with each coat. At 20c, it's tack free in about 15 minutes and dry enough to handle over night. I usually de-nib and buff after 3 days, but you can do it after 24 hours if your desperate. My last car I painted in iso free and after 10 years it was still like glass, mind you it was always clay barred and wax on a regular basis and kept under cover. I hope this helps.

 

[VR38]

Yes, thanx for your help showbags, I might try the switch next time if the iso primer does not sink like acrylic.

 

[garth7777]

thanks showbags ,,
good to finally find some one who has used it over a period of time with expierience.... so you use an
acrylic lacquer top coat over the top of the iso free high build/ isolator and then the iso free clear over that wet on wet have i got that right.
have you ever had any problems with the paint not adhereing i mean mixing the 2 different systems of paint
acrylic lacquer and the iso free 2k. a lot of blokes say not to mix the two systems but a lot of blokes spray 2k over acrylic primer with no issues..... what grade paper do you rub the iso free hi build/isolator with before top coating , is it possible to
spray the iso free 2 k paints base or clear with a conventional suction fed 1.8 mm nozzle gun, thats all i have ever used not really up with gravity fed guns used one once and didnt like it at all.
i have heard blokes say never spray 2k clear over acrylic lacquer that it will delaminate and peel off over time , maybe the method you have worked out elimates that problem
every one has there own ideas i guess, sorry for all the questions mate but if i am going to do again i want to make sure i dont have an issues this time around lol

thanks again

garth

 

[showbags]

thanks showbags ,,
good to finally find some one who has used it over a period of time with expierience.... so you use an
acrylic lacquer top coat over the top of the iso free high build/ isolator and then the iso free clear over that wet on wet have i got that right.
have you ever had any problems with the paint not adhereing i mean mixing the 2 different systems of paint
acrylic lacquer and the iso free 2k. a lot of blokes say not to mix the two systems but a lot of blokes spray 2k over acrylic primer with no issues..... what grade paper do you rub the iso free hi build/isolator with before top coating , is it possible to
spray the iso free 2 k paints base or clear with a conventional suction fed 1.8 mm nozzle gun, thats all i have ever used not really up with gravity fed guns used one once and didnt like it at all.
i have heard blokes say never spray 2k clear over acrylic lacquer that it will delaminate and peel off over time , maybe the method you have worked out elimates that problem
every one has there own ideas i guess, sorry for all the questions mate but if i am going to do again i want to make sure i dont have an issues this time around lol

thanks again

garth

ISO free is an acrylic 2k not urethane 2k. Iso free clear is recommended for over acrylic. Never had any problems with delamination. You still need to give you base flash time, or you'll end up with solvent entrapment issues down the track. I use 600g dry for primer & 2000+g to de-nib the clea and cut with farecla' G3 advance compound.