You guys have actually helped a heap with info massive thanks to Steve and rtmpgt you guys have definitely pointed me in the right direction.
Glad we can help!
As for llt vs ly7 yes I'm aware of the llt, I have been extensively looking into the whole 3.6 GM engine line all the way up to the cadillac lf3 and lf4 witch are basically twin turbo ve/vf engines that make 400+ factory haha but thanks heaps for the conversions website I'm hoping it's not too expensive.
Any engine swap is going to be more expensive than you think it is.
Even if you do an LS swap, it's going to be through-the-ass expensive. But, if you've got the dosh to do it, anything is possible.
The other problem you run into with going llt is that there are no injector upgrades so you end up being stuck around 400-450hp and the only hpfp upgrade is to go the V8 lt1 or lt4 pumps or modify the intake and add a whole nother set of port feed injectors.
Twin injectors would be sick, but the control systems associated with that would S U C K to tune, unless you know what you're doing. Also, that'd just add complexity. You're already getting 300-ish hp with an LLT conversion, and the VS is a pretty light platform to begin with. Put it this way, the LLT is about as powerful as some of the HSV 5L V8s of the day, and believe you me, those cars were no slouches.
Id love to see if theres a way to use the 4 phase heads on the llt with port injectors but afaik they have very different intakes I believe? Correct if I'm wrong.
The intake designs between LLT and LY7s are completely different. The heads on the LLT breathe better anyway.
As for trans yeah there's nothing yet for bolting on a t56 but I know the ay6s are good for about 450tq so decent enough. I was definitely planning on going turbo possibly twin for ease but unsure yet as single turbo kits are insanely expensive and I can weld haha.
You can weld, but can you weld
cleanly. You have to remember just how
friggin'hot turbo manifolds get. That means any dags of weld inside the tubing can break off and
furk your turbo impeller. Also, for packaging's sake, twins would be easier. However i'd sort out getting replacement rods and pistons if you're boosting. LLTs and LY7s have very high comp ratios, 11.2:1 and 10.2:1 respectively. Also, the bottom ends tend to go if there's any oil starvation so I'd suggest running a separate oil system for your turbos. That's what Goat Performance does with their twin kits.
But once again, that adds to your costs.
Any other suggestions for a trans or way to Frankenstein the best of all the engines together lol would be great hoping to crack open the world to the possibilities of the alloytec as the only reason the knock is bad Morse timing chain (mace make a billet or aftermarket one? Correct me stece)
There's lots of reasons that they knock. Alloytecs are
oil sensitive engines, one major drop in oil pressure and they're toast. I cooked my current LLT because of Rod 6 developing a knock. The two big end bearings on Rod 6 decided to cuddle up and become best friends. It's a shame that friendship cost me a perfectly good engine.
...and the heads basically can't breath so they gunk up. Add a catch can and the oil can actually last longer than a year from my research. Keep the info coming guys
The issue with that is the PCV. LFX and onwards don't have this issue because GM corrected the PCV with a bigger one. The heads flow air into the combustion chamber perfectly fine, in fact they can flow quite well, however it's the PCV system that has issues. Consider that this was once a FWD engine used in Saabs in East-West config. (the 2.8t was the first alloytec, followed by Alfa Romeo's 3.2 JTS, both transverse applications) GM had to design a bunch of other **** to get it to work in a north-south (RWD) application. It wasn't intended to be mounted perfectly vertically in the engine bay, rather at a bit of a slant. This is why the thermostat's in a real shitty place, it also is why they have to use a cartridge oil filter, because the ordinary location for the oil filter in FWD applications would hit the crossmembers in the Zeta platform subframe.
The inequal PCV ventilation between both banks means that one side has a reduced ability to vent crankcase pressure to the intake, and thus it results in your engine getting all tarred up on the inside. This is why you
absolutely should change your oil every 5,000kms, even with a catch can.
Also, use a good oil. None of this cheap ****. Penrite HPR5 5w30 fully synthetic, at least.
Best way to tell that someone's poorly maintained their alloytec? Crack the rocker covers off of any older, high mileage example and you'll see that one side will almost always be darker than the other. That's the side with the **** ventilation. that means the PCV's about to block off, which'll cause more of that black **** to go into the oil pickup, into the
tiny little timing chain tensioner ports and thus, stretchy stretchy fun times.
Catch cans aren't all created equal either, you need to use one that has a proper air-oil separator or baffle inside it. Don't just go on eBay, buy a shitty catch can for $30 and slap some steel wool in it. No, Go buy something like a Mishimoto one, something that's been properly designed and engineered to work.
) i may just get somewhere to fab some ss ones up unless there is a better matieria to use making turbo manis? Yeah I agree twins is what I had in mind for it anyways. And yes the internals will be up to scratch. I found a place I can get big h beams and some cp 8.5:1 forgies for 2k. I've found a company that makes head studs for em and I wanna get a lfx or later forged crank just to be safe so I can turn up the boost. As for oil starvation it's tricky because I did want to try and go electric but can't find a suitable pump. There more than. Likely a way to mod the oil pressure spring just to bump it up and make it safer. So not quite sure witch way to go with that.