Waughy
Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2004
- Messages
- 68
- Reaction score
- 8
- Points
- 8
- Location
- Newcastle, Australia
- Members Ride
- 2016 Mini Clubman
I recently got my old VZ wagon back from my parents. It's been in the family for 10 years now, and apart from needing new coil packs about a year ago it has been a good car.
I recently had it inspected at a local Pedders as I'm having a bit of trouble with brake shudder/pulsing, and in the list of things they picked up are the rear cross member mounts.
I've read through a few good threads on changing the mounts, so no problem there, but one thread I was reading a member stated their workshop manual says to replace the bolts. The bolts are torqued then turned an extra 40 degrees (from memory I think it's that much).
The bolts seem impossible to find, so was wondering what others who have done this job have done. re use the original bolts, or get high tensile replacements, or is there somewhere that still has the correct bolts available?
With the brakes:
At first they were shuddering and this could be felt through the steering. The front radius rod bushes had previously been replaced with nolathane items and were still in very good condition, so next I changed the front rotors and pads, thinking they were warped. This helped somewhat , but still had some shudder. After the Pedders inspection I replaced the lower trailing arms, so that took care of the pivot bush, and rear radius rod bush (all rubber replacements), which were on the list and worn. The sway bar link pins, and strut top mounts/bearings are also new, although Pedders tried to tell me I needed new strut top mounts as the ones in the car were collapsed. Funny thing is there's no knocking going over bumps anymore, and the top plates sit against the strut towers, with no gaps like you see with a stuffed mount.
I'm now getting more of a pulsing effect when braking, which seems more apparent when things have warmed up. There's no noticeable shudder through the steering wheel now, it's more through the pedal. I recently replaced 2 tyres (worn out, made no difference to the problem) and had the 4 wheels balanced at the time. I haven't had a wheel alignment yet as I'm looking to do the front and rear shocks in the next few months, plus the car drives straight with no pulling, so I don't think it's too bad as it is, if it's not already as good as it can be. I do get a very slight shudder around 100, which stops a few k's over or under.
Other things Pedders called out include the rear brakes, tail shaft centre bearing, steering rack (they say it's worn but steering feels fine to me), and the rear cross member mounts. I did read in an article on the Bendix site that rear brakes can cause pulsing that is felt through the pedal, so that's next on my list of things to try.
Also, with the cross member mounts, the car doesn't have the upper rubber, and Holden confirmed this by checking my VIN against their system. If I replace these with Nolathane or similar, would it be an idea to fit the upper part, or leave it out?
Any suggestions on any of this stuff would be appreciated.
I recently had it inspected at a local Pedders as I'm having a bit of trouble with brake shudder/pulsing, and in the list of things they picked up are the rear cross member mounts.
I've read through a few good threads on changing the mounts, so no problem there, but one thread I was reading a member stated their workshop manual says to replace the bolts. The bolts are torqued then turned an extra 40 degrees (from memory I think it's that much).
The bolts seem impossible to find, so was wondering what others who have done this job have done. re use the original bolts, or get high tensile replacements, or is there somewhere that still has the correct bolts available?
With the brakes:
At first they were shuddering and this could be felt through the steering. The front radius rod bushes had previously been replaced with nolathane items and were still in very good condition, so next I changed the front rotors and pads, thinking they were warped. This helped somewhat , but still had some shudder. After the Pedders inspection I replaced the lower trailing arms, so that took care of the pivot bush, and rear radius rod bush (all rubber replacements), which were on the list and worn. The sway bar link pins, and strut top mounts/bearings are also new, although Pedders tried to tell me I needed new strut top mounts as the ones in the car were collapsed. Funny thing is there's no knocking going over bumps anymore, and the top plates sit against the strut towers, with no gaps like you see with a stuffed mount.
I'm now getting more of a pulsing effect when braking, which seems more apparent when things have warmed up. There's no noticeable shudder through the steering wheel now, it's more through the pedal. I recently replaced 2 tyres (worn out, made no difference to the problem) and had the 4 wheels balanced at the time. I haven't had a wheel alignment yet as I'm looking to do the front and rear shocks in the next few months, plus the car drives straight with no pulling, so I don't think it's too bad as it is, if it's not already as good as it can be. I do get a very slight shudder around 100, which stops a few k's over or under.
Other things Pedders called out include the rear brakes, tail shaft centre bearing, steering rack (they say it's worn but steering feels fine to me), and the rear cross member mounts. I did read in an article on the Bendix site that rear brakes can cause pulsing that is felt through the pedal, so that's next on my list of things to try.
Also, with the cross member mounts, the car doesn't have the upper rubber, and Holden confirmed this by checking my VIN against their system. If I replace these with Nolathane or similar, would it be an idea to fit the upper part, or leave it out?
Any suggestions on any of this stuff would be appreciated.