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Rear wheels spin with gearbox resistance when off ground

Discussion in 'VT - VX Holden Commodore (1997 - 2002)' started by bp_vx, Dec 28, 2019.

  1. bp_vx

    bp_vx New Member

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    Hey all

    Got the VX on stands right now. Planning on doing all the brakes and a few other things. Thought I’d see how well the rear wheels are spinning in neutral with handbrake off. Turns out, not very well. They don’t spin freely at all. There’s resistance coming from the gearbox, I think, as I can hear a slight squeaking from it as I turn the rear wheels. What in the world would cause that? Yes there is fluid in the transmission. No, no idea how old it is, but it’s still pink. Car drives fine except for the occasional thump at 1500rpm when cruising.

    Thanks
     
  2. gossie

    gossie Well-Known Member

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    Why would you think it would spin?
    Have you tried the front? Same problem as rear = it must be a 4wd.
     
  3. Trevor loves holden.

    Trevor loves holden. Well-Known Member

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    Be your handbrake shoes in the drum.. If its in N then its free spinning .
     
  4. bp_vx

    bp_vx New Member

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    It’s in N but the problem is it isn’t “free” spinning. There is some resistance. If I get under the car while turning rear wheel, I can hear some sort of binding happening in gearbox.
     
  5. Trevor loves holden.

    Trevor loves holden. Well-Known Member

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    Possible problems: Selector not lining up, Pressure pack plates not letting go, torque converter stuffed.
     
  6. Utel67

    Utel67 Active Member

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    There is going to be resistance when trying to spin the wheels, because you are also spinning the tailshaft and that is spinning the transmission output shaft, and that is still spinning the parts in the transmission this is normal.
     
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  7. Sabbath'

    Sabbath' Redblock Jesus

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    [​IMG]
     
  8. Utel67

    Utel67 Active Member

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    Care to explain
     
  9. EYY

    EYY Well-Known Member

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    Resistance is totally normal accompanied by a subtle squeal in one direction of rotation. The other way should be approx 2-3 times easier to turn. Just the nature of th700’s & 4L60e’s.
     
  10. ant797

    ant797 Active Member

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    I was reading up on issue on mine where ocassionaly you start it up in park and it will jolt forward a little also quite common aparently on the 4l60e
     
  11. Sabbath'

    Sabbath' Redblock Jesus

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    Gearbox being in neutral doesnt negate driveline drag.
     
  12. bp_vx

    bp_vx New Member

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    That’s encouraging to hear. How would one adjust park break engagement then? Should I just wind up the dial til it locks up entirely then back off a couple of clicks? Or is the tail shaft easy to pop from one side or the other? New to RWD, bit of a backyard mechanic and learning as I go.

    Thanks
     
  13. bp_vx

    bp_vx New Member

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    My Haynes guide doesn’t really give me specific guidance on diagnosing any of these things. Any tests I can do to figure out specifically what it is? Or need a transmission specialist normally to diagnose this stuff?
     
  14. Sabbath'

    Sabbath' Redblock Jesus

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    Handbrake adjustment is done by backing off the 10mm which is under the boot at the handle until it is right at the top of the thread. Then you take the rear wheels off and rotate the discs until the rubber grommets are at the bottom. There is a small star wheel inside that grommet, which you want to spin so it expands the shoes inside. I usually turn it until you feel shoes hit the disc and lock it up then loosen it off about a quarter to half a turn. Do the same for the wheel on the other side, but beware that you have to spin the wheels opposite depending on the side of the car (one side will be up to tighten and the other i down to tighten but i cant remember which one is which as it's been about 5 years since i did one)

    Once you've got both sides done and tightened up like this you can go back into the cab and tighten up the 10mm under the handle. You want 6 to 7 clicks and this will give you good brake engagement and handle feel.
     
  15. bp_vx

    bp_vx New Member

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    Thanks! Easy enough. Done on trailers plenty of times. Just wasn’t sure with the “drag” from the drive train if there was a better way of testing the brake shoes aren’t dragging after I’ve backed it off.
     
  16. Trevor loves holden.

    Trevor loves holden. Well-Known Member

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    Well it seems your trans is fine, however if you don't know how long since last service maybe you should service it, only involves new filter and fluid and gasket for the pan, you say it clunks into gear at 1500rpms then maybe due to dirty fluid in the valve body or a shift solenoid lagging push the power button in it will hang on the gear a little longer.

    Handbrake adjustment in those are a cog with little notches, they are a pain in the arse to move I use a electrical flat screwdriver sharper the better, remove the grommet the passenger side is just past 6 0clock to loosen ^ tight is down, drivers side before 6 0clock loosen down ^ tighten, like was said loosen the nut adjust the cog till it stops rotating the drum then back it off till it rotates about 3-4 clicks do both sides then if you have a torque wrench do the nut up to 14nm, test lever, or pull the handbrake up 5 clicks and do the nut up till firm and test, repeat to you get around 5-6 clicks.
     
  17. bp_vx

    bp_vx New Member

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    You’re not kidding about being a PITA. Ended up getting small screwdriver and positioning towards top or bottom of the adjustment wheel, then using my mini sledge hammer to gently tap the screwdriver to spin the wheel. I actually have a proper drum brake adjustment tool but it’s useless on that tiny gear!

    Thanks for the help.
     
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  18. Trevor loves holden.

    Trevor loves holden. Well-Known Member

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    Yip that's for sure, they should of stayed with the vr-vs star one, also find removing the drum and cleaning it with brake cleaner then wd40 helps.
     

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