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Rebuilding a VS Cluster

theburna57

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I have the VS ute and we have just grabbed a VS sedan cluster.
Do I need to change all the cogs in the odometer drive to ensure it works? They advertise the cogs on ebay but don't respond to questions such as I have just posed.
They advertise 2 sets of cogs, one for the ute and later model sedans and then the early model.
Ordinarily I wouldnt worry about the odometer but I am teaching the grandson to drive, its his car and the kms we do have to be recorded.
I am using where is to guesstimate at the moment.

Thanx in advance.

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Complete Set Commodore VN VR VP VS odometer gear. Sun and COMPLETE Carrier gear

or

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VS Commodore Ute and Olympic special edition odometer gear COMPLETE SET
 

gtrboyy

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Download freebie gps speedo app...that is what 4wd nutters at work use when fitting huge muddies that knock speedo out.

Most I've done it's the little cog that shatters.

I cheat though...when take speedometer out don't pull it apart...at back one of the screws no direct access for screwdriver so drill small hole through clear perspex to then gain access to that screw.You'll have job done way quicker & easier than following how to threads about it.

No idea about different cog for Olympic edition utes unless it's series 3 or vt changeover point....I've only used the normal cogs then checked if correct with gps as lot of speed cameras here.

Could be myth but most think odo cog will eventually shatter when owners hit reset odometer on the move
 

07GTS

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there is only 1 gear that does every single odo vn-vs except for the final series cluster with the lighter green transparent printed c/b they use a smaller blue gear and speedo has different pointer motor
 

Schtoo

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Tell you what, when I pull mine out/apart to eradicate the electrical gremlins in mine, I'll take a look, maybe some pics and get back to you. If I actually have to go that far. Mine has spotty tach, fuel and temp gauges that take a whack to get working again.

Only reason being, mine is an Olympic edition ute, boring as bug poop V6 auto.

The stupid part here is that you will not find another human who cares less about the olympics than me.
 

vs-lover

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The next question we must have answered is what date was your ute built ? as it was only the very last Series III utes that will have the blue coloured gear fitted as the ute was to only vehicle that had the Level 2 cluster used. The Series III LWB Statesman had the Level 3 cluster fitted but it had no mechanical odometer, thus no gears used in that cluster.
 

theburna57

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Tell you what, when I pull mine out/apart to eradicate the electrical gremlins in mine, I'll take a look, maybe some pics and get back to you. If I actually have to go that far. Mine has spotty tach, fuel and temp gauges that take a whack to get working again.

Only reason being, mine is an Olympic edition ute, boring as bug poop V6 auto.

The stupid part here is that you will not find another human who cares less about the olympics than me.
I have a full spare cluster that has one line burned. The rest seemed to work just fine. You can have it for the cost of postage.
 

Schtoo

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I have a full spare cluster that has one line burned. The rest seemed to work just fine. You can have it for the cost of postage.
Thanks, but keep it in case someone else really needs it. Mine is, I think, a connection problem. Clean up the contacts where it all plugs in and it's good to go.

If I find different, I'll scream. Thanks a heap for the offer though. :)
 

gtrboyy

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The sticking water/fuel gauges is dry solder issue...another how to fix it thread on the forum.

You can tap in front of the rev tacho it should do same thing as hitting a bump or whacking dash.
 

Schtoo

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Got mine in pieces on the bench right now, little blue green gear tucked way up where I'm not playing to fix mine.

For reference, mine is a 4-2000, so quite a late build and everything I've seen says the speedo has never been fiddled with, as in the km match the condition of everything very well.

No pics, I hate playing with these things as it is...
 

Schtoo

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Welp, dabbed a little fresh solder on the voltage regulator, as proscribed, and it seemed to be cured until this evening...

Only a little tap made the tacho work again, but there's something else amiss in there. At least pulling it out again isn't a big job again as I know how to do it. Always worried doing something new as these things are 20 years old and that age plastic always has a tendency to snap rather than release...

Gave it all a good clean while I was in there though. Looks a lot better. It's something!
 
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