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Removing warped and Rusted Rotors

caulfield6

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Hi,

So a few months ago, I attempted to swap out my rotors to install the new shiny, non-warped set.

Turns out that the rotor is rusted to the hub. I've Tried WD40, then RP70 in behind the bolts, a sledgehammer, mallet, but still nothing.
I asked for an estimate at a mechanics, and they said around $100 for installing for labour for all four. It sounded reasonable to me, at about 2 work hours, or one hour for two people.

But I figure, now I've got some spare time, I might as well earn that hundo.

Are there ANY tips for removing the old rotor from the hub I could use. Or.
If you know someone/where that would do it for around 60 for all four and

Thanks,
Pat

Ps. Ive already checked: https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/how-change-pads-rotors.45145
and done a search.
The only idea was tapping the face with a mallet? Which I've tried.
 

Brett_jjj

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You just have to keep turning and hitting the disc with a rubber mallet until it comes loose, it can take ages.. Also soak it in WD40 etc for a few hours. I had this same problem when I first got my VS. Once I finally got the old discs off, I put anti seizing compound around the hubs where the discs sit so they cant rust onto the hub again. I removed the discs not long ago, it had been about 12 -15 months or so since theyd been removed last, and this time they just slipped straight off by hand , so its definitley worth using anti seizing compound on the hubs where the discs sit..
 
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Not_An_Abba_Fan

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I would actually use a lever in between the rotor and lower control arm as smashing them off with a hammer will damage the wheel bearings.

Previously I have said to keep hitting with a hammer, but I no longer recommend the hammer.

A nice long lever about 1.5m long will do the trick. Get it in there from the front and give it a good pull outwards. you may have to turn the rotor and do it in a couple of positions, but it will come off.
 

caulfield6

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Brett:
Yup, first thing I got when I realised they were rusted on, was some anti seize. Can't Wait to clean the hub and put it on.


Abba_Fan:
Would a crowbar work? Whoa, wait, 1.5m long? Have you got a picture or something to show what you mean? ...'Between the control arm and the rotor'...
 

caulfield6

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OK had a look, I'm guessing you mean at the joint where the lower control arm and the hub? So you sort of, levered this from the front of the car when it was on jack stands?
I'm thinking star picket, or just plank of wood.


Also with respect to the rear rotors, i didnt give them a go last time. Apart from releasing the hand brake, is it the same thing with levering them. Or can the sledge hammer come out again.
 

st3r3otyp3

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Can you heat em up some how, I`ve been told that if you get em hot enough they come off easy as they expand a bit, NAAF you should know if this works ay?
 

unregistered

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What i did was i got a really long flathead screwdriver, like 40-50cm. then i shoved it in the vent in the side on the rotor. then i rocked it back and forth about 1000 times and it came free.
 

FstStig

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If you have access to a 3 jaw puller that will work. Need the large one though, same one you use to remove a Harmonic Balancer. Always works for me.
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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The screw driver method will work too.

I only say a "long" lever so as to use less effort, but a crow bar will work.

Put it in at the bottom of the rotor right where the lower ball joint is and pull the lever outwards against the rotor.

You can belt the rears off, but it is generally the hand brake shoes that hold the rotor on more than rusted to the hub.
 

Killr6

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ive always found it best to just soak the rotor hub and bearings in WD40, and then a few taps with a hammer, comes straight off.
 
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