reposting in more appropriate thread: Help needed with restoring textured tonneau lid

[bearded_ute_bloke]

I did originally post this in the VS Thread (now deleted) but it seems to be more appropriate in the spray painting thread.

See photo on facebook of my hard top on my VS ute. See this gallery...
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10204431820542205&set=a.10204432257873138.1073741850.1432075712&type=3&theater
I have a 98 VS commodore ute with a textured black tonneau hard lid. Its getting a bit old and crappy plus it leaks water through the pinchweld edging and under and onto the material then drip onto stuff inside.
The pinchweld needs replacing. I found that on ebay here: Pinchweld Edge Protector Rubber Seal 66 8295 7mm Wide X 18mm High Sold BY MTR | eBay
Here is the top of the hard lid: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10204431820862213&set=a.10204432257873138.1073741850.1432075712&type=3&theater
My question is: How do I clean the lid top and possibly repaint it? Is this possible? If so , what paint do I use?
With the underneath, the material is rotten and old looking. What is this material called and where do I buy it please?
thanks guys
PS just got new struts and rubber around back edge of tub to prevent water leaking in. As you know this model has poor drainage and you have to invent your own with clarke rubber sealing.

 

[TinSnips]

Been donkeys since I've seen one of these covers - is it textured plastic, painted plastic or vinyl trim wrapped over plastic - I've seen all of those options?

If textured plastic, there's a couple of options. You can use a trim restoration coating (not a gel or dressing) to take it back to new or new-ish - no real guarantees on the result but they generally do a very good job. You'd want to spray it on an area that big and flat though to keep the look consistent and even then I'd still be a little wary that the finish might not be consistent - When I do trim restoration, it's normally not on that much real-estate. The other option would be to prep and paint it - This will probably last you the longest, particularly if you go for a COB finish. That way you care for it the same way as the rest of your car and you don't get the oxidation you'd get from a non-cleared finish. If it were me, I would do that but it will be more expensive.

Again, if it's plastic, you could also apply dressings or trim gels regularly but they do tend to bleed out when the car gets wet - first rain and you'll generally have stripes running down the sides of the car. In some situations heat can draw the oils from within the plastic to the outside - this is usually fairly temporary and a last ditch effort. You can sometimes manage to bake oils into the surface using a similar method, but again the results can vary.

If it's oxidised painted plastic, none of the restoration options will work. You could have limited results polishing it but the texture in the surface will restrict results and it will depend how far the oxidation has gone. Best bet is to repaint COB.

If it's vinyl covered, you'll need to use a vinyl dye and a UV coating.

The fabric on the underside will generally be some kind of synthetic - often a nylon-based textile - take it to any decent motor trimmer and they'll be able to suss out something similar/better to suit.

 

[bearded_ute_bloke]

good options thanks. I really dont know what it's made of. to me its like a painted textured rubber over fibreglass. It goes dull after a few days when you use armorall or similar on it.
The underside prob need the marine carpet but Id have to go see them to know what to buy. The one on it now has no backing. its almost like felt.
The pinchweld edging is easy to replace but just gotta get the right size.

 

[TinSnips]

Armour all will be doing some of the damage. It has a high solvent content which will work to dry it out over time. It sounds like it's a vinyl overlay, especially if it has some give in it. Could even be worth looking at getting the whole thing re-trimmed if that's the case. Unless you wanted to try redying it yourself first - there are rattle can options for that that should last reasonably well, but you will need a UV top coat. Once dyed, there are protective coatings that can be applied to help protect it much more effectively than armour all.