Silenced
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Hey guys, (prewarning I'm not the most engine/car smart around and don't know exactly how everything is ment to work so some of what im saying might be silly. just let me know! )
I'm in need of some advice and help.
I have a Holden VE Commodore V 2006 3.6l and about 6 months ago i could notice it had a rough idle, i left it for abit but when i had the cash i took it in to my local mechanic, they told me "they couldnt find the problem" and said they checked my codes and reset them (for $30.. thanks mate!).
i've never been back to that mechanic since, i had a transmission service that flushed new fluid through to get the old stuff out. i then put it in the next week for its 180,000 service and asked him to check out the rough idle for me (at a different mechanic) and at the end he said i would need a injector clean which he quoted like $500+. i noted it down and have been researching stuff via the internet and mostly justcommodores about rough idles and stuff.
now the mechanic told me the coil packs and spark plugs were fine when he checked it and said the engine shakes on idle. it also does a sort os put put sound at the exhaust. and also the car stalled one day at a cold start on a semi cold 10am , in which i think i put from N to R to quickly, and it wouldnt start again.
after that i went and got a battery test to which they told me it was fine.
i am at ends with this damn rough idle, the car runs like ****. i mean it has a noticeable delay when accelerating fast. ive been straped for cash lately and have been looking at doing this stuff myself to make sure it actually gets done because i feel like i cannot trust these damn mechanics at all. ive been researching how to change spark plugs and how to test them and also coil packs with a multimeter. ive read that you have to remove(or atleast unbold and lift it up slightly) the inlet manifold which im guessing is that silver thing on the top of the engine.
anyway to sum it up:
things I've done to attempt to fix the rough idle:
clean MAF sensor
clean throttle body
transmission flush service
car service
had mechanic check coil packs and spark plugs
reset the ECU*
reset the throttle body *
reset the MAF sensor*
*all via guides on justcommodores with the fuses and let the car check the car, then replace fuses and turn on. also via removing the battery negative terminal and putting on the headlights and pumping the brake.
i have been reading about the fuel filter but it is a whole thing that cant be changed seperately? anyway people i need your help! what do you advise?
EDIT:
also i was told i needed a new serpentine Belt, to which i have been looking at how to change it myself and just buy one on ebay.
i was also looking into the engine shake and i notice that the serpentine belt like shakes abit on one of the bottom pulleys and maybe one could be loose and thats why its shaking. they seem pretty solid tho. so yeah just wanted to add that in.
also the engine code they cleared was most likely transmission related; when putting the foot down fully and it changing from 2nd to 3rd gear at 6100 RPM it would shift and go straight into safety mode. i reset my ECU, got the transmission service and it hasnt come back since.
thank you for your time!
- Jayson
I'm in need of some advice and help.
I have a Holden VE Commodore V 2006 3.6l and about 6 months ago i could notice it had a rough idle, i left it for abit but when i had the cash i took it in to my local mechanic, they told me "they couldnt find the problem" and said they checked my codes and reset them (for $30.. thanks mate!).
i've never been back to that mechanic since, i had a transmission service that flushed new fluid through to get the old stuff out. i then put it in the next week for its 180,000 service and asked him to check out the rough idle for me (at a different mechanic) and at the end he said i would need a injector clean which he quoted like $500+. i noted it down and have been researching stuff via the internet and mostly justcommodores about rough idles and stuff.
now the mechanic told me the coil packs and spark plugs were fine when he checked it and said the engine shakes on idle. it also does a sort os put put sound at the exhaust. and also the car stalled one day at a cold start on a semi cold 10am , in which i think i put from N to R to quickly, and it wouldnt start again.
after that i went and got a battery test to which they told me it was fine.
i am at ends with this damn rough idle, the car runs like ****. i mean it has a noticeable delay when accelerating fast. ive been straped for cash lately and have been looking at doing this stuff myself to make sure it actually gets done because i feel like i cannot trust these damn mechanics at all. ive been researching how to change spark plugs and how to test them and also coil packs with a multimeter. ive read that you have to remove(or atleast unbold and lift it up slightly) the inlet manifold which im guessing is that silver thing on the top of the engine.
anyway to sum it up:
things I've done to attempt to fix the rough idle:
clean MAF sensor
clean throttle body
transmission flush service
car service
had mechanic check coil packs and spark plugs
reset the ECU*
reset the throttle body *
reset the MAF sensor*
*all via guides on justcommodores with the fuses and let the car check the car, then replace fuses and turn on. also via removing the battery negative terminal and putting on the headlights and pumping the brake.
i have been reading about the fuel filter but it is a whole thing that cant be changed seperately? anyway people i need your help! what do you advise?
EDIT:
also i was told i needed a new serpentine Belt, to which i have been looking at how to change it myself and just buy one on ebay.
i was also looking into the engine shake and i notice that the serpentine belt like shakes abit on one of the bottom pulleys and maybe one could be loose and thats why its shaking. they seem pretty solid tho. so yeah just wanted to add that in.
also the engine code they cleared was most likely transmission related; when putting the foot down fully and it changing from 2nd to 3rd gear at 6100 RPM it would shift and go straight into safety mode. i reset my ECU, got the transmission service and it hasnt come back since.
thank you for your time!
- Jayson