Run in time for a new car??

officially I think it's 1500km. But the car seems to continue to settle for at least the first 5000. But try and keep off the highways for the first 1500 and drive it harder than average (without going over the top ) for the same period. Mods I'd leave for 5000. I'd also be inclined to make sure they change the oil and filter at the first service (not part of the service)

 

Thanks for the advice snips, I see you recommended changing the Oil and filter. In other threads you have spoken about the importance of using the right oil and which oils you prefer. What do you think of these OIL Filter Alloy Billet's?

OIL FILTER RACE ALLOY BILLET ADDS 5HP VE LS2 L98 L76 V8 (eBay item 120653945462 end time 29-Apr-11 05:15:43 AEST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats

 

220 for a oil filter? lol i use royal purple oil filter works great no problems and is excellent quality, same as there oil as too which i use

 

With a new car, within it's warranty period, I'd only be using genuine filters. I'll probably switch to K&N or RP filters once the warranty is done and dusted but, having said that, I've had no issues with the genuine filters. I've always used one of the other named filters in my cars once the warranty is up. AMSOIL make filters also, but good luck getting hold of one in this country. RP or K&N will be more than sufficient.

ummmm.. as for that one on ebay - certainly wouldn't be my first pick. I'm no mechanic - but they're not for me.

 

I think it's mixed ideas about how to run cars in. Some say drive them easy. Some say do a few heat cycles to bed the rings in, and other say drive them like you stole it.

Personally, I've always done a few heat cycles first, and then just driven them fairly easily for the first 1000-1500km. No matter what the vehicle. Boat, bike, car, anything.

 

Cat back will be fine. It's more tunes, cams etc that I'd be waiting for.

 

Walkinshaw use Perry exhausts - If you like the sound of the walky systems, compare the price to a perry-branded system - could be worthwhile.

at $880, I'd be surprised if it was stainless, whereas perry is. But there's a million systems out there - and a bunch of great shops to go to in Sydney.

 

KPM exhausts ftw!

 

I agree, cant wait for the 5000 klms to be up so I can get the whole KPM exhaust system, otr and tune up done.

 

To add to some good advice here.

First off - "Always" allow the engine oil to warm up (first 10mins driving) before getting into it. I would avoid engine tuning (on the dyno) while the motor is bedding in. By all means get the exhaust and OTR but wait a while to get it tuned and dyno'd.

Find some nice big hill and do some extended hill climbs in top gear start of in the low range RPM say 1500rpm and get into 6th gear and excellerate (nearly WOT - WOT is Wide Open Throttle) if its a manual this is achieved easier than in auto. If you go WOT in an auto it will change down. If its an auto you could try having it in Active Select mode. What your doing here is ensuring a good bedding in of the ring to bore.

Try to avoid using the cruise control at low speeds (around town driving) and try to avoid long periods on the highways at the same speed. It can be difficult at times but do the best you can. Also try to avoid rpm limiter, but get the rpms up to and over 3,000 between gear changed - 4,000rpm is good. Just try to vary things and mix it up in the first 1,500klm.

Also no need to change (even at the first inspection - 3,000) the mineral oil that will most likely be in the motor right now. Some people have suggested that changing the oil at the first inspection (3,000klm) gets rid of swafing (engine metals from manufacturing) IMO and speaking to engine shops unless the motor has been modified where reboring or head work has been carried out, they should be pretty clean.

As stated in earler posts 5,000klm would be a good time to change the oil. With my new motor I changed over the mineral oil at 7,000 to a semi-syn - but you can use full syn. Leaving the mineral oil in will allow a better bedding in process to occur. If you change to a full syn oil to early it will prevent sufficient bedding in. HSV's engines seem to be an exception to the rule as their "factory fill" is mobil 1.

Hopefully this gives you some further info to consider.

Cheers
Phil

 

I had to go the other way (quieten down) for the family. I got the rear mufflers like you have now on mine. Was originally trying to get the whole catback off a new SS but was to hard to find.

 

I am about to take the exhaust system off my SSV sportwagon if you are interested.

 

Here is an interesting link to running in a new engine.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power