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Runs fine, no logged errors, excess fuel

hako

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I'd forget it - by replacing items you may cause a REAL problem!...leave well enough alone. And to keep the battery charged just use an el-cheapo charger from SuperCheap or just wire a 12V battery plug-pack charger from one of those battery spotlights to a cigarette lighter plug (everyone's got one of those lying around). Buy a scratchie with the cash you're saving by not fixing faults that probably don't exist. Good Luck.
 

The1

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you can never tell with oxygen sensors, sometimes there just getting old and lazy, doesn't report any faults to the ecu but still dont work very well and gives poor fuel economy, you could take it to someone to test them out realtime and see if there working properly but for the cost you may as well replace both of them. From what i can remember when a oxy sensor dies or nearly dies the ecu goes into limp home mode, just dumps fuel in all cylinders till both oxygen sensors are working good again.
 

Immortality

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I had a fuel consumtion problem, i took it to holden, gavethem the symptoms, the guy smiled says heard that story a 1000 times, drop it of tommorow and we'll fix it, he calls me the next day says it's just a purge hose under the throttle body that s come off, comon problem, holden have designed a new one. they checked the computer also to check for other faults and it confirmed that average fuel consumtion was up by some 7.8%. fitted new purge hose, computer hookup, check etc. $65. cool. b 4 i took it in however, i changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil & filter, flushed the cooling system, new plugs and leads. i did have a problem with my old VN once where i was a little lazy and just fitted new plugs and lost 100km from a tank of gas, pulled them out and foundthe gap was 1.3mm when it shoulda been 1.5mm, reset gaps...fuel economy back, so i though i'd check the VS once more to be sure, to be sure, no, gaps good, however the plugs on the passanger side bank all looked good, normal colouring etc the plugs on the drivers side bank however still looked brand new white as white can be, so this bank was definitly runnin lean??? thought it was the o2 sensor as well but alas a bit of hose was all there was wrong with it.

i'm ranting again:ranting: hope this is of help to you though:whistling
 

digisol

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I had bumped one of the two hoses off when cleaning the t/b some time back and noticed it had a dodgy join in it that was indeed sucking air, but that was repaired before putting it back together, and months ago now.

New filter "again" and from what I have found the so called Xpert I respect reckons it's simply my driving habits, not my driving style, so that in the short distances I drive it's barely enough for the engine to get warm, thus the sensors are in a rich semi choke mode all the time with my small trips, and winter time is exagerating that, logical with the very good CAI I made meaning the intake sensors are telling the engine it's cold and feeding it more fuel, probably why it goes so well.

I'm going to waste half a tank and go for a decent drive and see if that's the reason it's doing it, I will admitt that I have shortened all my trips with the cost of fuel and both were about the same time.

There could well be merit in this theory as with the 40kms on the clock from two longer trips the guage has yet to even move from it's std overfull reading which is normal when full, I had deliberately driven it less making it never allow the sensors to reach a normal operating temperature and give it the appropriate amount of fuel/air.

With new O2 sensors at $89 "from supercheap" each I thought that wasting half a tank was a cheap test, besides the O2 sensors were removed and put on a meter, all appears to be fine.

The basics of what the Xpert "my bro that works for Toyota" said was that what I was doing would make it use twice the amount of fuel it would normally use, and that's about what it's doing.

Remember on a trip it went to as low as 7 lit/100kms, basically the same engine - CAI, same driver.

Add that to rather stale fuel which would be not even close to the RON # as when it was purchased may well be adding to the problem, longer trips and "for me" just fill it to half tank to keep it more fresh was the basic advice.

I know the benefits of using PULP from the boat which used more fuel in a day than some buy in a year with 2 X 400 lit fuel tanks, it used 600 + litres each time it went into the water, and fuel was only put in the day of the trip, the results compared to std unleaded was 1/3 less fuel, more power, and smoother running, but as we should know, it loses it's RON # much faster than std unleaded does so to switch over may only fix it in the first half dozen drives, the fuel may well be std unleaded from then on, unless I only fill to 1/3 tank and top it up often.
 

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your expert would be right on the higher fuel consumption while the engine is in the warmup stage, i to have much higher consumtion now that i live 4 mins from work where as b 4 it was more like 20 mins, most of it on the motorway. it's really like driving with the choke on in the old carby sense

can't win either way can we:bang: when it gets warmer i'll think about the old push bike maybe as i do very early starts:whistling
 

vt1538

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It only takes 40 deg of engine temp & around 360 deg of exhaust temp for the computer to go into closed loop mode & read off the O2 sensor. With no faults I would think like the others that the O2 sensors were not working properly.
Either that or the temp sensor for the ecm is not working properly & is not telling the ecm enough to go into closed loop.
 

digisol

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Fixed, fuel filter blocked with near a 1/4 tsp of rust and silt, considering the filter was changed 3 months age likely it was sold to me with crap in it, won't be the first or the last time for that.

To be sure, so far at 65 kms the guage has yet to move, as it used to do and power has increased dramatically, perhaps I got used to it getting slower as the filter blocked up ?

Either the crap has been put in there or I got a dodgy batch of dregs off the bottom of the servos tank, as with the previous filter change it had no such crap in it, curious ?
 

boojak87

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Lol at least you could actually see the stuff in your filter. When i replaced my fuel filter the other week. The stuff had liquified (turned to fluid) and was like a black puss! Lol 219,000kms of same fuel filter, that's what you get! Should change them over every 10,000kms i think!

Cheers,
Boojakz.
 

kezvn

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change air cleaner to a knm cost 20 at swap meeting also reusable new cost a bit new like 75 but worth it put it in car goes heaps better using a bit less fuel but price of fuel has made me bring out of the garage the old pushy to go to shop cost nothing now
 
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