Ryan's VB Daily/Project

[RazzaCaine]

from the looks of the pics you posted on page 1 you got a large cap, but i cant say for sure. and yeah the tvs is to raise the idle a little on cold starts.

yeah i had a look and it is a large cap distributor and it is also electronic. it has a hdt sticker on it so i want to run the id code on it to see if it actually is a hdt unit, or in more likelihood, a standard electronic distrubitor from a vk with a hdt sticker on it. it also has a bosch coil as well so hopefully the ignition system is up to scratch.

what are all your recommendations with the tvs system? leave it all removed and blocked off or reconnect it all up?

 

[ari666]

well to start with LOL@hdt sticker (caps lol)

and well, the tvs is a personal choice really. for one its a rwc item and for two it does make starting easier on cold mornings, but for me 1. i dont care about rwc and 2. i dont mind warming my car up for an extra 5 minutes in the morning, so mine has all been removed (plus a good "mate" of mine was kind enogh to break the vacuum tree off my inlet manifold trying to use a screwdriver under it to lift the manifold off, so its pretty much heaven-gone)

up to you bro.

 

[Darren_L]

mate, when soop fixes up those red heads, you wont see a minimal difference you will notice a HUGE difference. red heads dont have an EGR crossover, so once he has matched up the manifolds to the heads those babys will breathe a million times better than blue or black heads.

dont worry about changing anything on the carby, the beauty of metering rods is: the higher they rise, the more fuel they allow through. its not like just jets where a set amount is metered, if there is higher vacuum, then there will be more fuel and i will bet my left nut you wont need/get full opening on your current rods with only a mild cam. remember, there are 450HP 454's running stock quaddys.

also: trimatic

the 454's run different metering rods to a 308. Put a 454 quad on a 304 and it will run terrible. I took one of those exchange Quaddies you get from Autobarn etc to the Brock shop to be looked at because the engine wouldn't even idle. As soon as the guy looked at it, he said 'what did you get that out of ?'
He told me it was from a big block Chev, that's why it wasn't running. And added it was fairly common with the exchange carbs....
He ended up pulling it apart, fitting the correct rods and a few other minor mods/adjustments and it worked a treat.

He was telling me even the 253's use different metering rods to the 308
so yeah whilst the Quaddy is a very versatile carb in regards to cubes, it still needs to have the correct metering rods to suit the particular engine

 

[ari666]

so yeah whilst the Quaddy is a very versatile carb in regards to cubes, it still needs to have the correct metering rods to suit the particular engine

very true.

 

[RazzaCaine]

hmm thats interesting about the quaddy darren, ive run the code on mine and i know it came from a holden built in 1984 so im assuming its the original quaddy that was on the 308 when it was originally in the vk it came in. i also ran the engine id and i know that the vk was built in april 1984 and was originally a manual as well.

so the tvs wouldnt really affect the power of the motor or anything would it ari? i may reconnect it if thats the case as its my daily and it would be nice not to have keep applying the throttle to keep it idling until it warms up

 

[ari666]

no it wont affect power, just helps it run a little better. people get rid of it cos' they dont understand what it does "hmm, confusing so it must restrict my power *bin*" same as the carbon can. both of them are actually good things to have, but since they are misunderstood they tent to get binned. if you have have all the connections intact, i would recommend hooking it all up properley.

 

[Darren_L]

agree with ari666
most people who tear off all the emissions gear believing it's going to improve performance when it's not true.
Apart from the EGR (which recirculates spent exhaust gas back into the engine....), the other emissions devices, if in good running condition won't affect the performance of your engine at running temp.

Most of them are only designed to work when the engine is cold, and you shouldn't be flogging a cold engine anyway

 

[RazzaCaine]

all the connections are intact, theyre just blocked off with screws (dont know why) at the momnent. ill have suss it out on monday and reconnect it all and replace my ignition off solenoid while im at it. darren i know better than to flog a cold engine, thats one way of making them go bang! one of the things i love about my car is the dash cluster, i have the oil pressure gauge so i know that when the engines cold the oil pressure is higher so if i flog it cold the oil pressure will go through the roof and damage the motor. generally i dont rev the engine over 2k when its cold and i rarely rev it over 3k when its warm. honestly, i think the hardest ive reved it is 5k in 1st and 2nd, 4k in 3rd and 3.5k in 4th. im yet to hit the redline in any gear and the most throttle ive ever used so far is 3/4. i dont want to rev the motor too hard as i dont want to damage it. using anything more than say 1/2 throttle in 1st gear from a standstill just results in the wheels spinning and then the same thing in second. in the wet it spins at 60kmh in 4th gear if you give it a reasonable kick with the right foot..

 

[RazzaCaine]

well today (the 23rd) is my 20th birthday so yesterday i treated myself to a few early prezzies and had the VBs windows tinted. i went with some 35% tint to keep it legal and got metallic tint as its meant to be the best for heat rejection. im really happy with the results and well get some photos up when i can be bothered harassing my girlfriend for her camera haha. i also got rid of the ugly aftermarket gearknob for something a little nicer and got myself a black leather gearshift boot to replace the ripped original rubber one.

hopefully next week the heads and manifold soop modified for me will arrive and then ill bolt those up, have the carby modified and get a dyno tune. the plan after that is to get a vk ss/hdt style cold air induction set up and some 3.7 ratios for the current diff (ill get an lsd further down the track when funds permit) to get the car moving a bit quicker. then it may possibly be time to do some suspension work as the car has some pretty bad body roll right now that i want to try to correct

 

[soop]

I've got some pedders sway bars in the shed.