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Scruf guards

Discussion in 'VN - VP Holden Commodore (1988 - 1993)' started by fredothefrog, Jan 8, 2008.

  1. fredothefrog

    fredothefrog New Member

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    the trims running down the lower part of the car on each side ( on the floor where the door closes) seem stuck and i cant take em out they lift a bit but i dun wanna pull on them anymore casue it feels like they are gonna break. any tips? (vp commy)

    by the way its so i can rum amp wires down the side of the car
     
  2. peter65

    peter65 New Member

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    hey fredo....

    Did you remove the rubber strip infill in each scuff guard?

    On the underside of each guard there are plastic lugs, straddling the two sides of the guard, that hold them into the body... when the rubber strips are removed you can compress the two sides of the guard together... hopefully compressing the lugs which are straddling the two sides of the trim and so the lugs come out of the body easily. thats the theory.

    When reinstalling, put the rubber strips in the guards first... that spreads the lugs so they clip into the body snugly.

    Have fun, i did. Numerous times.

    Pete
     
  3. fredothefrog

    fredothefrog New Member

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    i sorta get ya casue yer when i tryed i dint take off the rubber so when the rubber is off i just squese the two trims together sorta closing the gap where the rubber went then just lift am i right
     
  4. peter65

    peter65 New Member

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    yep thats the trick... once you pull the rubber strip out the two "halves" of the guard can be squeezed together and the lugs compressed so can can be pulled up from their receptacles i nthe body... it is still iffy though and you have to (while pulling up firmly) manouvre the lugs out... they are strong suckers too - if (like mine) half of them are half-broken they dont come out easily.

    btw as you are running wires for the amp... you know to run the power down one side (i put the pwr down the drivers side) and the signal wires down the other dont you? this is the pain i went thru... i had those scuff strips out 5 or 6 times getting it right. fun! cheers pete
     
  5. fredothefrog

    fredothefrog New Member

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    :bow: yup i was gonna do that lol but then couldent get the guards off lmao :bang: also i got another question u might be able to answer my head unit is not fixed in to the dash so i just slides out is there any easyer way to get the RCA leads up in there without having to remove everything again
     
  6. Just_a_stocker

    Just_a_stocker New Member

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    They break real easy, try using a screwdriver to push in under the guard and push on the side of the little lug, this will compress it and unlock it from its position,like a peg,yeah also remove the rubber seal before you try this..

    Do this slowly and methodically with every one.

    I just ran my RCAs down there and then up under the kick panel, behind the glove box , just remove the black cover below it, then just hid them and from underneath guided them through the most less conspicuous position possible.

    Buy some plastic zip ties from dick smith, they are good for holding the cables in position.

    Run them down the laft hand side of the car.
    If you have an amp run its power down the right hand side.


    cheers
     
  7. peter65

    peter65 New Member

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    yep like just a stocker said... and you aint gonna like me saying this... but the more of the car's trim that you disassemble, the better install job you will get (within reason). the time taken (like removing the black panel under the glove box mentioned) will be repaid with a better install job.

    hmmm and dunno about you but my install "short cuts" always ended up taking longer than doing the job right first time...

    The head needs to be securely attached to the car - i used the stock radio brackets to hold the new head into the dash. If it isnt secure:
    * it might become a projectile in the case of an accident;
    * the earth might not be good. The head (and amp) need to be well earthed to prevent noise and
    * to make life harder for crooks...

    Remember that you will need good thick power (i used 8 G) power and earth for the amp... i had heaps of problems with noise but have solved most of them now.

    its fun and games but worth it. and you learn heaps along the way.... hehehe... keep telling yourself that... i did... and i almost believed it in the end.


    cheers pete.
     
  8. fredothefrog

    fredothefrog New Member

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    its all done worked perfectly first go i rekon the hardest part of the whole thing was getting those scruff gaurds off got an alpine type s and alpine 700watt amp workes mint :w00t::dance:
     
  9. peter65

    peter65 New Member

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    nice one (green with envy....)...enjoy!
     

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