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Series 1 build?

Sambalam

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Hi all I am wondering how much power and how to build up a series 1 buick/ln3 what would i need to do ect ideally need to chat with someone who has done it before
 

Fu Manchu

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I remember when we would use those Toyota Superchargers on them.
 

Sandst4rm

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One thing you can do is switch to a VR VP series 2 intake manifold but you MUST have a breather on the rocker cover otherwise you will blow all the seals out because the PCV wont connect on the series 2 manifold. Normally S1 have one already on the rocker cover that has the filler cap.

You could get a VR manifold with the top-mount throttle body like sprint cars and skidders have but i think you lose some airflow on a few cyl if you do that.

The valley gaskets are the same for both and they actually only sell gaskets for the series 2 AFAIK even if you have a series 1.

The crank is unique to the series 1; so is the camshaft AND the timing cover also. they must be used together because the cam has a spring bearing on the front to control end float.

They also have a two piece rear main seal that you need to remove the crankshaft in order to replace and two extra coolant passages in the top of the heads. No rear seal plate like the ecotec.
 

Fu Manchu

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Series 1 VP had that tube inside the intake that smoothed the acceleration a bit. I know series 2 definitely had it.

I cut the top part off mine.
 

Sandst4rm

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pics please!
Can do

Screenshot (3757).png


On the series 1 there's a spacer plate behind the water pump as well (dont lose it), this might be here on the series 2 as well,
I've only had the series 1 blocks so wouldn't know for sure. It has its own gasket as well.

Screenshot (3756).png
Screenshot (3759).png


Series 2 intake manifold. Series 1 Crank angle sensor - adjustable.

Useful to know as well; make sure to pickup 2 of the intake coolant outlet pipes made of brass, the factory ones are plastic and are a dog to have go on you halfway up the freeway.

Part no. is KC38MC from autopro who are the only guys who seem to stock them on-shelf.

Screenshot (3761).png



Here is what you need to understand to adjust the CAS, just needs to clear the interrupter rings without shredding the sensor apart.

There is a bolt that clamps down on the sensor inside the CAS bracket to hold it still.

Screenshot (3758).png



And here are my 1988 factory metal rocker covers :)

Screenshot (3760).png
 
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Sandst4rm

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My build is:

Stock crank 030 undersize all journals - Automatic 6 bolt
030 ACL main bearings and conrod bearings
Spool forged H-beam conrods
Hypatec pistons 040 oversize not forged
Cast piston rings
Block bored 040 and decked
New camshaft bearings
Stock camshaft

CROW valve spring retainers 11700-12
CROW valve locks 4133-12
CROW valve springs 7332-12

Chromoly pushrods
New roller lifters

Head studs
Main cap studs

Cometic MLS head gaskets 040 thick (series 1 with top coolant passages)

The end goal is to fit a self-contained centrifugal supercharger of some variety bolted to the frame rail via custom bracket;
without effecting the factory parts so i can go back to factory at any time.

Goal is 8-10 psi

Idea is i will use a non-keyed pulley bolted to the front of the harmonic balancer and a belt tensioner on the same bracket as the supercharger mounted to the passenger frame rail.
 
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PaRaDoX

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I remember when we would use those Toyota Superchargers on them.
I did a turbo once LN3 around 18 years ago. I learnt my lesson and moved on to improving factory turbo cars.
The problem you face is, the entire car isn't designed for it, fuel system, PCV, brakes, injectors, fuel reg, map sensor, ecu. I mean switching to a modern ECU alone will cost you more than the entire cars worth. for the cost of the mods you could sell the car and buy a car with a LS and probably have some change.

If you really care about the car a motor swaps the way to go. if you must stay with a v6 then, start with a L67 as a base, the bottom ends stronger and uses extra bolts in the main caps and I think some other improvements.
 
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