Im after some info on servicing my borhters VN which is all new to me. Im wondering do i need to replace (or does it even exist on these models) the sump plug washer when changing the oil? if so does anyone what size it is? Also if anyone has anything to add to servicing it, we will be changing the oil, replacing air/fuel/ and oil filters at this stage. Is their anything else that would need to be done or checked. One last thing, what oil do you's recommend. As i said im new to VN's so any help is much appreciated. Cheers Tom
20w50 is your best bet thats was we use at holden you can replace the sump plug washer if you want but not many pplz do and on size go to you holden dealer and ask for one they cost $5 just check all the lights,brake,reverse,indercaters.parkers,high.low and hazards if you have never changed your leads or spark plugs change them check all fuse and check you auto fluid (if you have an auto)
No need to change the washer. It's only a steel washer, there to prevent you screwing the sump bolt in too tightly. Mine's never been replaced in over a dozen oil changes. If a service hasn't been performed in a while, change the oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, and spark plugs. Check the condition and levels of power steering fluid, brake fluid, trans fluid, and coolant. Top up or replace if needed. If you have any concept of how old the spark leads are, they may be worth replacing too - although it's less crucial than the plugs themselves, especially given the price of good spark leads. Take the wheels off, and calipers - check the width of brake rotors, and how much meat is left on brake pads. Check for uneven brake pad wear. A 20w50 oil is a good viscousity to use. I use 20w60, the Penrite HPR stuff. I'm only on my third sump of Penrite HPR oils, but they have brought a fair amount of comtaminents out of the engine on the last two drains, so I'm reasonably happy with the performance thusfar. Well worth the money in comparison to cheaper oils like Castrol. Also, lean toward a mineral oil rather than a fully synthetic one. It's generally accepted that they are better for the old cast iron blocks that we have Also, check all hoses for wear, leaks, or pinching. Give the bottom end of the engine a complete degrease when you're finished (including all hoses), then check for leaks a couple of days later. Good luck!
Cheers for the help fellas. Just what i needed to know, but now i gota do a service in this bloody heat Cheers Tom