Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

Shaky revs in idle (between 250rpm and 2.5k) car failing to start, engine cutout

Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by Stato, May 4, 2012.

  1. Stato

    Stato Only milk comes in 2L

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    May 4, 2012
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Members Ride:
    VR Statesman
    I have being having some trouble with the wiring/ECU in my car and figured I'd try here while I wait for the engineer who lead the design team for the car to get back to me. (I get free support because hes my grandpa)
    Its really weird, I crashed it a while back and tore the frame on the passenger side front near the control arm, bent the passenger control arm, buggered the shocker and bent in the sump but ever since I got it back from the mechanic I've been getting really weird warning lights and it would randomly die from time to time and now it wont start. When I try to start it, it turns over once and then stops and the ECU, Battery/Solenoid and Brake warning lights come on.
    My sub also stopped working for no reason. As best I can figure, its a short somewhere in the wiring or maybe the brake sensor but I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere and I'm still new to this whole cars thing so it might not be overly helpful to me anyway. I found a plug that looks like it should be plugged in but isn't, its a two prong plug near the battery and it is wired purple by white (Here are some pics: http://i.imgur.com/ocUKI.jpg http://i.imgur.com/qVHeq.jpg ) could that be causing my short or do you think its in the brake sensor? If it is in the brake sensor, do you know how I'd go about fixing that?
    Battery power indicator is in the green so I don't think its a flat battery unless the solenoid was hooked up wrong and the battery has gone just flat enough for it to not start. Also, when it idles in gear, its very choppy and will idle from anywhere between 250rpm to 2.5krpm and move around a lot until it dies.
    It first happened when it just died as I was driving and then the deaths got more and more frequent.
     
  2. aussie4life11

    aussie4life11 Keep It Simple Stupid

    Messages:
    1,567
    Likes Received:
    7
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2011
    Location:
    Western Australia
    Members Ride:
    94 vr 3.8l v6 Auto Acclaim, 2002 Vy Exec Auto
    are you sure that the engine wiring harness was not damaged in the crash? it runs up along the passanger side quarter pannel to the ecu thru the firewall. if this was damaged then it could explain the issues you have been having. also check your earths on the engine and body.
     
  3. Customcreations

    Customcreations PORTED GETS IT SORTED

    Messages:
    236
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2012
    Location:
    Cessnock Australia
    Members Ride:
    VS Commodore V6 EcoTech Custom Ported by me
    If it can start and idle still, look under the bonnet while engine idles. Move the loom around near the fiwall, were the loom enters through as
    aussie4life11 mensioned.
    abit further along the loom near the TBS (throttle body sensor), there is a hidden join in the loom the wire comes from the TBS and joins with another wire.
    GM used a crimp to join it and it gets corroded like a battery terminal. Especiall if its ever been wet (even rainy weeather is damp enough)
    Gm not only used a crimp there but they didn't seal it well either. If its coroded it will make the car run rough or even cut out as if the TBS was shotty.
    Moving the loom around at idle can help you find out if its that doing it( it will cut the engine if shotty). If not its one thing off the diagnosis check list.
    Also if the fusable link is corroded it will cause all of those probs too. Including the amp cutting out. fusable link bolts direct to the positive battery terminal.

    I have the diagrams for VN through to VS.
    If you need em I'll try to post them. Wont be till tomorrow though.
    I was up till 4:30am last "night" on the forum.
    So it's off to bed.
    Also check if the coil packs are shot by taking off each spark plug lead at the coil and examine the pins that the plugs go on.
    They may look OK but look closely. If they have some slight rust marks or obviously rusted up there history.
    There's more but that would get you started with the easiest stuff to eliminate first.
     
  4. seq4x4

    seq4x4 New Member

    Messages:
    1,337
    Likes Received:
    10
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2010
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast, Queensland
    Members Ride:
    VS
    Check Looms. Do a error check. That plug i THINK is for foglights. Car dieing/not starting sounds like a CAS. Do a error code check tho. Also check your knock sensor on the passenger side is still plugged in and working. Report back with findings and im sure we can assist you further.
     
  5. Stato

    Stato Only milk comes in 2L

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Joined:
    May 4, 2012
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Members Ride:
    VR Statesman
    Thanks a million for the great responses guys, I'll check all of it out tomorrow night/when i have the day off on monday.
     

Share This Page