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She is not sounding healthy

Skylarking

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- 6L80 flex plate converted to 6L90 bolt pattern
can’t one just fit a 6L90 flex plate to LS3 crank or is the crank bolt patter different?
 
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hjtrbo

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Not sure man. Would have to investigate if the crank bolts are the same pcd and centre hole size etc etc

Cheaper to mod your own. Can be done at home if you're good. Machine shop if they're fair dinkum should only be charging a box of beers.
 

Skylarking

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Not sure man. Would have to investigate if the crank bolts are the same pcd and centre hole size etc etc

Cheaper to mod your own. Can be done at home if you're good. Machine shop if they're fair dinkum should only be charging a box of beers.
Think I can manage at home using my hand drill :p
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dassaur

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Just an FYI another mod you can do is get the OEM 6L90 restalled up to 2800rpm. That would make a very nice best of both worlds converter. Smooth factory lock up (frictions designed to work with progressive slip lockup) and a stall speed perfect for any mild street cam to instantly light up the rear tyres. This mod isn't done over here yet. I asked TCE about it and they had no idea.

Anyway, it's a good package for the taking if anyone wants to market it.
- OEM 6L90 converter re-stalled to 2800rpm
- 6L80 flex plate converted to 6L90 bolt pattern
I ask this out of ignorance, but is it really that much cheaper than a new converter?
I don't actually know, but I imagine a good one specced to your car would be in the $2k region?
If the oem one is $1k how much extra would it cost to mod it? Doesn't sound cheap!
 

losh1971

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I'd just buy a HD stally from TCE or Pro Converters.
 

hjtrbo

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Disclaimer:
I can't speak for Pro Converters. My comments about TCE are relevant to only 6 months ago. If things have changed then please correct me and I will edit (or remove) this post with up to date information. I've tuned with TCE and OEM convertors.

This below is fact. But whether it's an issue or is good as gold; that's up to your own taste.

You won't get a nice lock up in the lower gears with a converter from TCE. When I talked with them they were not using the OEM GM style frictions that allow for continuous slip. What happens is they shudder in the lower gears. To keep the NVH acceptable all you can do is disable lockup until 6th gear. Then you can command only a low load lock up. If you try to lock it up with moderate and higher load e.g. whilst still accelerating onto the freeway into 6th gear, it will shudder into lock.

When dealing with it for the first time it takes a bit of mucking around to tune it right. If you're tuner hasn't done one before allow a few trips back and forward before they get it dialled. The 2nd one they do will be quick. I've seen 2 tunes with the a TCE 2800 fitted from different well respected workshops and they just disable lock up all together. I can tell you, driving anywhere of substantial distance with a loud exhaust and no lock up gets real annoying real fast.

When I talked to TCE about the 6L90 converter re-stall mod the cost from memory was not that much. I can't remember how much as it's been 6 months but I remember feeling like it was good value.
 

Immortality

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I'd just buy a HD stally from TCE or Pro Converters.

It's going to cost more as the later style converters have fancy lock up clutches that can handle full power lockup.
 

Daniel Souza

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It moves about 5mm back. It's enough for a quick test. Just mark it so it goes back to the same bolt holes. The starter is a pain to remove. In my case it involved taking the header completely off the engine and removing the trans cooler lines.
I like the ideia but how i am going to be able to keep the converter back while the engine is running.
Maybe a bar proping the converter back though the starter hole? Whait a minute , i need the starter to start the engine.

The other risk would be when moving the converter back 5mm an old seal could break or start leaking.
 

Daniel Souza

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Some converter bolting action on a VF2 LS3 here. Nice series of DIY at home videos


 
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