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She is not sounding healthy

Daniel Souza

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Can you have a look at the push rod cup and see if there is a bur there as I've circled in the pic.
View attachment 241185
They looked ok. The cup is very shiny andt hogether with the oli causes lots of reflections. But i should have spent more time cleaning the cups.

20220813_161428.jpg
 

Daniel Souza

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I couldn't fine anything unusual.
So next step will be heads out. I Better order bolts , gasket, lifters and lifters buckets.
 

dassaur

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I couldn't fine anything unusual.
So next step will be heads out. I Better order bolts , gasket, lifters and lifters buckets.
Consider some ARP bolts. They are reusable. Our cars need ARP 134-3610 you can get for around $200.
You should change intake manifold gaskets too (you need to remove manifold to remove heads) 19256623
 

chrisp

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I recall a discussion some time ago suggesting that the lifters (and lifter buckets) and valve springs be replaces at 100,000 km in a LS. It seems that the valve train is the weakest part of an LS so it was considered a ‘gold standard’ (my wording!) to replace the springs and lifters as a precaution at 100,000 km (or was it 100,000 mile?). The trunnion bearings are probably also worthwhile replacing/upgrading too (but, as you have found, they are relatively easy to access and replace later if needed)?

It’s my intention to do the lifters, buckets, and springs at 100,000km. But don’t hold me to that - it can be a case of ‘the road to hell is paved with good intentions’!
 

Daniel Souza

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Consider some ARP bolts. They are reusable. Our cars need ARP 134-3610 you can get for around $200.
You should change intake manifold gaskets too (you need to remove manifold to remove heads) 19256623
Thanks mate, this will be the first time removing a LS head and I've been reading a lot but any bit of advice is helpful.

I have put and engine apart in the past but it ende up on the boot and the car taken to the wreckers. Hopefully that is not going to be the case this time. it was a Ford Telstar 16 years ago. Time flies !

Do you have a preferred shop of choice? Mace engineering seams to have a wide variety of service parts but ARP bolts are overpriced there.
 

07GTS

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VEGTS BUILT BLOWN E85
one thing with the LS if u can remove the bung in the block bout half way down (coolant bung) or get a hose into the water pump outlet at the front of the block each side and suck out as much coolant as u can, that way when u remove the heads u will get the least amount of coolant ending up in the cylinders u have to clean out, if u are stripping engine down dosnt matter but if not it just helps with less mess
 

dassaur

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Thanks mate, this will be the first time removing a LS head and I've been reading a lot but any bit of advice is helpful.

I have put and engine apart in the past but it ende up on the boot and the car taken to the wreckers. Hopefully that is not going to be the case this time. it was a Ford Telstar 16 years ago. Time flies !

Do you have a preferred shop of choice? Mace engineering seams to have a wide variety of service parts but ARP bolts are overpriced there

I recently did a top end rebuild - my thread is here there's probably too much info.

But my favourite shops are amazon and rockauto in the US. It almost always ended up cheaper. Even head gaskets including shipping to Aus were cheaper than buying local.
The head bolts are $200AUD at amazon right now:

For other parts from rockauto, go here:
 

losh1971

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Likely different for VF parts but I have found RA more expensive on basic parts for VE. Only thing I have found cheaper was a balancer. Spark plugs, coils, leads all can be bought a lot cheaper locally.
 

Daniel Souza

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I recently did a top end rebuild - my thread is here there's probably too much info.
[/URL]

But my favourite shops are amazon and rockauto in the US. It almost always ended up cheaper. Even head gaskets including shipping to Aus were cheaper than buying local.
The head bolts are $200AUD at amazon right now:
[/URL]

For other parts from rockauto, go here:
[/URL]


The bolt description on the link from Amazon says Stud instead of Bolt and there is just one picture with half of the bolts on it. Is it a dodge post or a lazy post . I know the sellers is Amazon but still looks dodge
 

dassaur

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The bolt description on the link from Amazon says Stud instead of Bolt and there is just one picture with half of the bolts on it. Is it a dodge post or a lazy post . I know the sellers is Amazon but still looks dodge
Yes I know it says stud, its definitely the right one though, I bought that exact link
Reviews verify this too.
The pics is what you actually get in the official ARP packaging along with instructions and their lubricant they recommend putting on the threads
 
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